I'm in the process of eliminating the parking brake cables and hardware from a Demon that will only be used as a drag car. Does anyone know if the parking brake strut and spring assembly is still needed or can that be removed as well?
Parking Brake Delete?
- Thread starter 1969GTS340
- Start date
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Alaskan_TA
Well-Known Member
Also known as an emergency brake, so......
Will the tracks you race at allow it to pass tech if you remove them?
Will the tracks you race at allow it to pass tech if you remove them?
The E Brake is not a requirment in tech inspection.
With out them, I'm wondering g if the strut bar is needed?
With out them, I'm wondering g if the strut bar is needed?
I believe that equalizer bar and spring is needed for proper shoe balance.
I would not remove the emergency brake- ya know... for emergencies. Or even parking on a slight hill. On the trailer.
I would not remove the emergency brake- ya know... for emergencies. Or even parking on a slight hill. On the trailer.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
No it's not.
They don't have them on front drum brakes.
Good point. It appears to me that the strut keeps the pressure off the wheel cylinders when the e-cable is pulled.
volunteer
Well-Known Member
I would think the strut (between the two shoes) is there to activate the forward shoe when the cable pulls on the rearward shoe. If cable is removed and strut and lever left in place, these disconnected parts will possibly rattle but not fall down. So, if you are determined to 'decommission' the parking/emergency brakes, remove the other stuff inside the drums and maybe put them all in storage. But, if only to save 8 or 10 lbs., possibly safer ways to do this. 
I would think the strut (between the two shoes) is there to activate the forward shoe when the cable pulls on the rearward shoe. If cable is removed and strut and lever left in place, these disconnected parts will possibly rattle but not fall down. So, if you are determined to 'decommission' the parking/emergency brakes, remove the other stuff inside the drums and maybe put them all in storage. But, if only to save 8 or 10 lbs., possibly safer ways to do this.
A little history on this build - I bought this rusted out roller needing doors, fenders, interior, rear end and driveline. Over the past 3 years I have been piecing it together, mostly with used parts that I purchased from many fine members on FABO. I am currently refurbishing an 8-3/4 drum to drum. In doing so, I questioned what remaining parts I still need in order to complete the break assembly? I should have titled the post differently because it obviously gives the impression that I am stripping the car down, when in fact, I am actually putting it together. Since I don't have the majority of the E-brake components, I wanted to know what parts of the E- brake assembly could be left off that wouldn't effect the the actual brakes from normal operation. From the responses I read, it appears that they can be left off and not cause an issue. However... on the Safety topic. I appreciate everyone's feedback on not having the E-brake connected and understand the added risk and some convivences to having it as well. I will be using this car strictly for drag racing on a local 1/8mi track that has plenty of shut down road and gravel at the end. I anticipate this car will be running in the low-mid 7's, so nothing too crazy. In the event the car requires a back up breaking system, I'll probably spend the money a shoot verses the E-brake cables and hardware, when the time comes. Thanks again for all the feedback, I'm sure I'll be posting more questions and this project get wrapped up before the season starts.
volunteer
Well-Known Member
It's all good. Wasn't there an old saying something like "a man's car is his castle?" - or similar. 
. But seriously, folks, to me it is not so much a matter of safety, it is more about convenience. I've pushed around and hauled plenty of vehicles and always found it useful to have that extra security to keep a 'roller' from rolling away. You obviously have a plan so do what you think is best. Now, tell us about your power plant. 
. But seriously, folks, to me it is not so much a matter of safety, it is more about convenience. I've pushed around and hauled plenty of vehicles and always found it useful to have that extra security to keep a 'roller' from rolling away. You obviously have a plan so do what you think is best. Now, tell us about your power plant.
It's all good. Wasn't there an old saying something like "a man's car is his castle?" - or similar.
71 Demon /6 rust bucket - Now has a 340 short block w/ Keith Black .030 over, Engine Quest Magnum (Hughes worked) heads. Custom mechanical grind from Oregon Cam Grinding, Air Gap, Holley 750, 4500 converter, 727 w/ reverse manual cheetah, 4:88 spool. Added an 8 point cage, fiberglass buckets and hood.
volunteer
Well-Known Member
Looks nice! Just curious about (blueprinted?) C.R. and Part no. of Carb.
Not blueprinted. Just pieced together as parts surefaced over the years. The crank and rods were balanced. Other then that it's just something I'm toying around with, n i have time. Including my first hack at body and paint.
Cuda Al
Well-Known Member
If I have this thought out the equalizer bar isn't needed with the parking brake.
With the hydraulics the piston expands pushing the shoes out at the top with the adjusters being the fulcrum.
The parking brake pushes out the bottom of the shoes so the bar acts as the fulcrum as the pistons would probably retract.
Not a 100% on this, just thinking aloud.
Alan
With the hydraulics the piston expands pushing the shoes out at the top with the adjusters being the fulcrum.
The parking brake pushes out the bottom of the shoes so the bar acts as the fulcrum as the pistons would probably retract.
Not a 100% on this, just thinking aloud.
Alan
Scody21
Just send it
Where’d you find that duck tail on your truck deck? I’ve been looking as I want to add one to my 73 duster...
Chrysler Nationals in Carlisle. It was cracked and most of the mounting holes were cracked through to the edge. I picked it up for $25. It's held on with panel bond, fiberglass resin and matting. I belive it is a Direct Connection model though.
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