PARTS STORAGE

-

mikedevore

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Messages
2,561
Reaction score
113
Location
Oklahoma
Guys & Gals, take care when storing any bare metal parts before rust gets to them.
In the last two weeks, I have been searching for a 360 block that would go .040 or .060.
Went through 4 blocks that rust had killed, one was a std bore '71 block that had been vatted & stored for the last ten years.
Rust had consumed it.
I did catch a break & bought a NOS 360 R3 race block, never touched & rough bore @ 3.91.
Yea, it was quite a bit of cash, but my time is worth something.
Just oil those parts down before storing them, they aren't being made anymore.
 
Used parts leave them greasy.
New parts, cosomilene, sealed in plastic.
 
I have bought vintage WWII parts for my willys that was packed in it, with burlap wraped around it.
Not a drop of rust 70 years later.
That`s why cosmoline was used on about every weapon ever built for years.
 
You would be lucky to get any 360 block to sonic test for a .040 over bore and be concentric. They were not that good out of the box. Sleeve them and use front and rear motor plates to help eliminate block flex. Otherwise #5 or #6 usually comes out the side of the block.

I have seen them with just the head studs hanging from the heads after being grenade d. You usually can save the Damper, water pump and distributor. Not even the intake is safe from a underside hit. I was never a fan of 360's . But I was never that conservative on abuse.
 
-
Back
Top