Passenger side rear wheel locks up when lug nuts begin to tighten

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earlymopar

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I have an 8 & 3/4" with a new Powr Lok and green axle bearings from Cass. Cass suggested that I leave the end play buttons in even though I have green bearings (which is what I did). The driver's side axle is in, the wheel-tire is on and lug nuts tightened. The axle rotates as it should. The passenger side axle is in and the wheel/tire is on but when the lug nuts are just beginning to tighten, the wheel will not rotate. There is no point of contact between the brake shoes, backing plate and brake drum. I have read about spline alignment and wonder if this might be the case or if this is somehow related to the buttons. Anyone experienced this symptom before and know what the likely cause is?

Thanks much.
 
To be honest
If you have green bearings
The buttons won’t matter at all with the wheels on or off
Once you tighten in the axles
They don’t move right or left

Are you absolutely certain the brakes are not touching on the right side drum ?

Tommy
 
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Defective shoes.

I had the exact same issue, I could actually see the wheel begin to go on a little off, crooked, then the brake would lock up.

New axles, center section, backing plates, brakes, everything from Cass.

He sent me new shoes, problem solved.

Rear Brakes Lock Up when Wheels Go On?
 
I thought you HAD to leave the buttons out, so that the bearings are free to have some end-play and not bind the bearings?
 
Yes, Cass mentioned that with stock axles, the buttons don't come into play so they could be left in or taken out. Mine are in. Correct, there is absolutely no rubbing or other contact marks on the drums shoes or backing plates. I've confirmed my backing plates and drums are the same side-to-side. I'm in the process of putting the right side drum on the left to see if the driver's side wheel will lock up or not.

Thanks Matthon for your feedback. I'll review your link info for sure.
 
Buttons can stay in or be removed, some don't come out.

Iirc if it's cone type the block has to be removed.
 
Matthon: Given what you found as far as differences on your brake shoe features, I'll do some comparison with mine. Since my driver's side rotates good and the passenger side does not, I may have a mis-matched set of shoes. Otherwise, all of your findings are the same as mine (so far).
 
I pulled an axle to replace a green bearing and somehow the button came out and fell in diff housing. I didn't know this until I drove it. :BangHead: Gears were next. So I never leave them in with green bearing for this reason.
 

Look down the axle tube to see if both halves are still in place.. Most fit pretty tightly, some do fall out when pulling/installing axles.
 
So the button cannot be the problem here. Axles are in already. Putting the wheel on will not affect the axle relation to the button. I suspect brake drum/backing plate interference on the one side.
 
I made sure that the E brake cables were slack. Then I put the passenger side drum (the side that has been locking up) on the driver's side (which had been rotating correctly). The driver's side rotates OK with either drum. So, it appears I have a passenger side shoe issue or a passenger side backing plate issue. I had taken measurements and made comparisons earlier and the backing plates are the same on each side. I'll remove the shoes in a couple of hours and see what I can find. I did notice on the passenger side that was sticking that I could grab and rotate the entire brake shoe assembly (both shoes and all the springs etc. would pivot around the top post) without too much effort. The non-sticking side does not do that or at least requires a lot more effort.
 
On the lock up side. Remove both brake shoes, install the drum and wheel. Does it turn or lock with no shoes inside?
 
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"I could grab and rotate the entire brake shoe assembly (both shoes and all the springs etc. would pivot around the top post) "

Are the pins/springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate in place? The ones that come straight thru the backing plate/shoe?

Is the rearend, itslef, new to the car? not centered, and the tire is hitting the leaf spring?

Just thinking out loud over here on the east coast...
 
ragtopfury said:
"I could grab and rotate the entire brake shoe assembly (both shoes and all the springs etc. would pivot around the top post) "

Are the pins/springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate in place? The ones that come straight thru the backing plate/shoe?

Is the rearend, itslef, new to the car? not centered, and the tire is hitting the leaf spring?

Just thinking out loud over here on the east coast...
Click to expand...
Yes, all of the pins and springs are there the same as the non-sticking side. The rear end housing, axles and 3rd member are original. The Powr Lok is new as are the ring and pinion, green bearings and brake hardware. The side that sticks does not stick with the shoes removed so again shoes, brake hardware and backing plates are possible causes.
 
Already disassembled...

I found the cause of the brake assembly rotating. The 2 compression springs on that side (passenger side) were roughly 1/4" too short. So, there was not enough spring force to hold the shoes in place at those 2 points. I'm pretty sure this is also the cause of the wheel sticking problem as the shoe assembly would rotate and bind in the drum. The shoes appear to be OK otherwise.

I'll button this up tomorrow and see how it is.

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys.
 
earlymopar said:
Already disassembled...

I found the cause of the brake assembly rotating. The 2 compression springs on that side (passenger side) were roughly 1/4" too short. So, there was not enough spring force to hold the shoes in place at those 2 points. I'm pretty sure this is also the cause of the wheel sticking problem as the shoe assembly would rotate and bind in the drum. The shoes appear to be OK otherwise.

I'll button this up tomorrow and see how it is.

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys.
Click to expand...
Weak/too long springs is what I figured as then the brakes rotate. Kim
 
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