Patina Paint Job

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Kom01

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What are people thoughts on Patina Paint jobs, Any Dusters on here with Patina paint jobs, if you do post up some pictures.
Thanks
 
At the risk of sounding ignorant...
What is "fake" patina?
And "yes" I agree, some patina looks good sometimes
Clear patina looks great- never. Totally take away from the look and peels shortly afterwards.
 
There are very talented painters out there that can duplicate patina in paint. The car will appear to be an old rust bucket with old peeling paint and primer but it is all paint, it is "fake patina". Out here we have a car show called Billet Proof and it is all "rat rods". Real patina, fake patina- it has a certain place and can be cool. This is up to you.
 
Real Patina can look cool.
This is my 1962 Lancer. Used CLR to clean off the dirt then Paste Waxed then a was sealer.
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So seldom to find any 50 year old car that does not need patch panels some where, and primer over that metal! I love original survivors of any kind, but I hate seeing cars rust away too!
I can see the patin thing on solid cars from the 50's and earlier., if solid, just surface rust, but any car worth saving needs paint to survive!!
 
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Not really big on the beat to **** look myself. But to each their own. Would rather see it fixed and coated with a fresh coat of primer.
 
Did someone say “patina”? :D
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Don’t worry? I have full intentions of eventually stripping the whole thing down for body work and paint but when I bought the car 5 years ago, I decided I can either tear it apart and have a car in pieces for 10-15 years (sounds bloody awful to me) or I can get the mechanicals in order and drive the snot out of it and enjoy it how it was intended to be enjoyed.
Once I get my 75 Scamp done (haven’t even started on it yet) where I can drive and enjoy it, I’ll strip the Duster down and do a rotisserie restomod.
 
As my teacher of bodywork told me once.

IF YOU CAN LIVE WITH IT AND ARE HAPPY WITH IT 100% OF THE TIME.....
THEN YOUR ALL GOOD....
NUF SAID.....
 
I'm sorry you're trying to restore a car in any capability to bring it back to life why would you mess around and not do it right.

There are still ways you can do things to make it look good and refinished but this
Patina thing gotta go

Unless you truly enjoy a look of that sort.
All good.

Good luck trying to sell.

Not for me

Patina is a glamorous word brought out in these 2 bit restorations shows.
I wouldn't want anything that looks close to that garbage in my garage.
 
20+ years in the same spot gave it a nice tan.

Fake...there is some. we patch behind the front and rear wheels and replaced a section by the trunk. We then painted the metal with oxide primer, grey primer then blue (actually pontiac blue engine paint!)....and sanded thru in spots to try to match.

Trunk lid had to be thrown away. TOO far gone. we got a replacement from AZ. same color...same patina. got lucky!

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swing69 said:
20+ years in the same spot gave it a nice tan.

Fake...there is some. we patch behind the front and rear wheels and replaced a section by the trunk. We then painted the metal with oxide primer, grey primer then blue (actually pontiac blue engine paint!)....and sanded thru in spots to try to match.

Trunk lid had to be thrown away. TOO far gone. we got a replacement from AZ. same color...same patina. got lucky!

View attachment 1715355583

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Click to expand...
People spending mucho time to make
Look like you disregarded it in the first place...wow.
 
75slant6 said:
Did someone say “patina”? :D
View attachment 1715325362 View attachment 1715325363 View attachment 1715325364

Don’t worry? I have full intentions of eventually stripping the whole thing down for body work and paint but when I bought the car 5 years ago, I decided I can either tear it apart and have a car in pieces for 10-15 years (sounds bloody awful to me) or I can get the mechanicals in order and drive the snot out of it and enjoy it how it was intended to be enjoyed.
Once I get my 75 Scamp done (haven’t even started on it yet) where I can drive and enjoy it, I’ll strip the Duster down and do a rotisserie restomod.
Click to expand...
I hate the word, but leave that one alone, as soon as you paint it, it will become a garage queen, my Duster was a decent driver until I painted it, I have not even took it out of the storage shed since it was painted.
And it is good cruising weather, the one I am building now, a old cuda will not have paint, so it can sit outside, not worry about scratches, etc, or sitting in the garage if the grand kids scratch primer, who cares.
 
mycuda said:
People spending mucho time to make
Look like you disregarded it in the first place...wow.
Click to expand...

A car was saved that was going to the scrap yard.
It was mechanically restored and upgraded for performance and safety.
It was worked on as a learning tool for US auto students, 100% funded by the teacher - me. The money in it, exceeds it's value WITHOUT doing body and paint. I'm underwater, but that's ok....its about teaching the kids. My concern and curriculum is MECHANICALS, not auto body (obvoiously)
The HS program does NOT do body and paint....so it would be a complete losing proposition to send it to a body shop.

To get it to a point you would Approve, would be in excess of 20 grand. Yes, I'd have an easier time selling it for 10k, taking a 10k hit.

By not painting, the kids hammerec, welded, bondo-d, spray bombed it .

For those reasons, it way way cooler than a shiny show car that looks exactly like the line of 150 other shiny show cars
 
I've had kids: break windshield, swing doors into lift posts, drop and shatter carbs, fry electrical harnesses, gouge freshly painted parts, snap off a ton of fasteners, crack plastic trim....you name it. All mistakes they learn from. That body has more dings than it came in with.

I've had nice cars, but the just sat under a dust cloth in the garage. No fun there. Keep those shiny waxed up show cars away from my garage....no thanks
 
Valiant- barracuda has: disk brakes, frame connectors, electronic ignition and dual master cylinder - - - - all incorrect for 1965.

We had a show at the school once. A guy showed up with beautiful 69 Camaro, blown big block....hood up and one of my shop kids said "with so much motor, why is he still running non power drum brakes UP FRONT?

I guess for him paint And a chrome big
block is more important than stopping.

At least I taught that kid something that may save his life someday. Shiny paint won't do that
 
swing69 said:
A car was saved that was going to the scrap yard.
It was mechanically restored and upgraded for performance and safety.
It was worked on as a learning tool for US auto students, 100% funded by the teacher - me. The money in it, exceeds it's value WITHOUT doing body and paint. I'm underwater, but that's ok....its about teaching the kids. My concern and curriculum is MECHANICALS, not auto body (obvoiously)
The HS program does NOT do body and paint....so it would be a complete losing proposition to send it to a body shop.

To get it to a point you would Approve, would be in excess of 20 grand. Yes, I'd have an easier time selling it for 10k, taking a 10k hit.

By not painting, the kids hammerec, welded, bondo-d, spray bombed it .

For those reasons, it way way cooler than a shiny show car that looks exactly like the line of 150 other shiny show cars
Click to expand...



uhh if you can do the body work (95% of it is hammering and welding) of a paint job then the extra 1500 -2k for a home spray job would actually help you not be underwater so much. Mine was a total rust bucket bought for a grand (with new convertible top, bucket seat skins and rear seat skins worth approximately 600.00 , so I paid 400.00 for the car. lots of sheet metal work was required. But since it was exactly like my first car and convertible I decided to go for it.. I used Nason paint (lower end paint but color matching was not going to be an issue) and a high good quality clear . total paint cost including base and clear with hardener was 625.00 primer was 135.00 misc sanding supplies and paper were another 150.00 , new devilbiss plus gun cost me 300.00 but it sprays soooooooo nice. harbor freight 12.99 purple gun for the primer. then labor.....oops that was free since I did it in my spare time waiting on my home built cnc to finish up a moneymaking project
yep the firewall to the tail panel had to be replaced. my 65 -V8 convertible triple black car was similar but in much better shape bought for $2500.00, 2k in paint 1k in top and seat covers.carpet and went out the door @ $9,750 talked down from 10,500
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over the hump panel replaced and body squared from a previous hit.
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Well I had most of the driveshaft hump.
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90% of the metal work done and test fitting for square.
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thsi was about the 10th time blocking and primering.
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came out pretty straight too!
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even the door gaps were better than when I pulled it apart. (that was just luck I think)
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Now I have to get off my lazy behind and finish the top install and now that I have the transmission parts ,rebuild it and test it out, engine is done..whew! bumpers will be comming in from tri city plating and ready to go on (very last thing to do on the list.)

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mine does not look like a show car, but it is nice and I could clean the wiring up and other assorted tricks to make it one in a short time.
 
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