Pcv hook up on FI Tech go street efi system

[Syleng1]

quick question:

Has anyone had issues hooking up a pcv to one of the 3/8 ports off the back of a FI Tech throttle body (30003)?

I found off google- of all places posts from a few years ago with the same issues on here but when I tried to search them directly it went no where. The post off google from here talked about splitting the vacuums from both 3/8” ports since one feeds the left bank and the other feeds the right bank. But no conclusion on what was correct or if both were needed.

Any ideas? There is a vacuum divider break under the throttle body - small but a divider. Just would hate to run a “tee” off both to equalize the possible vacuum. If that was the case then I had better run it off the O2 sensor side.

Let me know your thoughts.
Joe

 

[Dubob]

Hi Joe. To me if your intake has any type of “gap” between left and right banks it shouldn’t make any difference. You could also for go the throttle body and use the port, if ones available, on the back of the intake as long as it’s not tied into one specific runner. My thoughts. Could also call fitech and see their thoughts.

 

[JoeSBP]

I ran mine from the passenger valve cover to the large port on the back of the TB. Running an Air Gap intake that is divided. O2 sensor is on the driver side. System works perfectly, no fouling or erratic idle etc. I had planned on trimming the intake down, but runs great so I never did..

 

[Syleng1]

Hi Joe. To me if your intake has any type of “gap” between left and right banks it shouldn’t make any difference. You could also for go the throttle body and use the port, if ones available, on the back of the intake as long as it’s not tied into one specific runner. My thoughts. Could also call fitech and see their thoughts.

Thanks, the FI Tech tech assist has been - well- slow if not existent at all.
Thanks.
Joe

 

[Syleng1]

I ran mine from the passenger valve cover to the large port on the back of the TB. Running an Air Gap intake that is divided. O2 sensor is on the driver side. System works perfectly, no fouling or erratic idle etc. I had planned on trimming the intake down, but runs great so I never did..

Thank you JoeSBP, the directions show the driver side port being for brake booster and the passenger side for PCV. I personally did not see a difference and gut told me there was not one. Trying to keep the hose routing neat and clean.

 

[Syleng1]

I seen one hook up where he put a 1 inch spacer under the fi tech with a port installed and hooked the pcv to that

Yes-but in an early abody with an LD340 intake hood clearance is super tight. I had to run a factory 4bbl chrome top and cut the back off and use a different base plate to make work. Here is a picture of the cut before sending out for rechrome. The cut allows for clearance of the fuel lines (pressure and return) when you drop the filter height to 2” x10” from the factory 3”x10” the photo s from my truck on the way to rechrome. Very tight but with a vintage air ac compressor and brackets a larger air filter 3”x14” will not fit. Hits the back of the compressor. But that’s “Hot rodding” right?
Thanks again for the reply.
Joe

 

[JoeSBP]

On the back of mine, the largest port is on the passenger side and I used that one for the PCV. I'm not sure if that draws above or below the throttle blades, or evenly from both sides, but I don't see any plug fouling or buildup from oil mist. moving toward the passenger side, I used the next small port for the fuel pressure regulator on the FCC. The last port I just have capped as I run manual discs. I also capped the forward port. Mine is an early model, still running the original version 1 software and original version of the FCC. I started to get a little lean stumble a WOT and decided to do the FCC mod to be a full return vs vent. Upon opening the FCC I discovered the short fuel line connecting the pump to the outlet fitting on the top cover had loosened, and the zip ties securing the pump worked loose. I retightened the fuel line, retightened the zip ties, and removed the float valve and the brass filter. Unfortunately I had just T'd the vent into my filler neck vent, and after about 20sec, the fuel would be forced out the vent onto the ground. I replaced the float valve and luckily the lean stumble has been resolved from tightening the fuel pump line. The FCCv2 looks pretty nice. I plan on reaching out to FiTech and purchasing the vent line bung they supply with the FCCv2 so I can go full return vs deadhead.

As for air cleaner clearance, I have seen guys using the banjo style fittings with success..

 

[LJ67barracuda340]

Any ideas? There is a vacuum divider break under the throttle body - small but a divider. Just would hate to run a “tee” off both to equalize the possible vacuum. If that was the case then I had better run it off the O2 sensor side.

Are you worried about the oil mist from the PCV and the O2 sensor?

 

[Syleng1]

Are you worried about the oil mist from the PCV and the O2 sensor?

Yes- oil mist can be an issue with older cars but plenty of new vehicles with 2,3 or 4 O2 sensors with high mileage burn some oil so I guess all is good.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Put a vacuum gauge on the port(s) you are thinking of using. As long as both are getting full manifold, vacuum, it does not matter.

 

[LJ67barracuda340]

Yes- oil mist can be an issue with older cars but plenty of new vehicles with 2,3 or 4 O2 sensors with high mileage burn some oil so I guess all is good.

On my FiTech I use one port for brakes and one for PCV but I run the PCV thru an air/oil separator. I dont collect nearly as much oil from the 340 as I do in my 2010 5.7 hemi. The 5.7 collects oil and water, but it runs in the winter though and makes short trips..