PCV Valve add on for 1960 Valiant Slant 6

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Ronusny

    Ronusny Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2021
    Location:
    Loudonville,New York
    Local Time:
    6:58 PM
    Hi everyone-
    I’m wondering if anybody has added a PCV system to their ‘60 Valiant?
    I would just like to get rid of that stinky smoke.
    Or maybe even a pipe diverter?
    Thanks. Ron A
     
  2. Professor Fate

    Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

    Messages:
    3,535
    Likes Received:
    5150
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2020
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Local Time:
    5:58 PM
    "Stinky smoke" would be making me look for other issues, like excessive blow-by or bad valve seals. In good condition, it should be running relatively clean... Is the smoke coming from the road tube?
    To answer your question, the easiest way to add a PCV is from a donor motor, something '66 or earlier.
    You will need the valve cover and carburetor. Remove your units, and install the newer valve cover with PCV and breather. Install the later carburetor (up to '66 will have compatible mechanical throttle and kickdown linkage for your car), hook up the PCV hose from the valve to the new carb's PCV port. Attach all linkages and other vacuum lines as they were before.
    Later model parts could also be used, but would require fabrication to the throttle and kickdown linkages to operate properly (or replacement with later cable-operated parts), and would also require the later model air cleaner with an additional fitting for the late model valve cover breather hose; and kind of spoils the period-correct look...
     
  3. Ronusny

    Ronusny Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2021
    Location:
    Loudonville,New York
    Local Time:
    6:58 PM
     
  4. slantsixdan

    slantsixdan =..=

    Messages:
    6,961
    Likes Received:
    2303
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2007
    Location:
    Vancouver BC
    Local Time:
    3:58 PM
    Most of the info you need is here, except there are additional parts needed if your '60 engine is all original.

    If you still have the '60-only intake manifold—it's aluminum, so check with a magnet—and the '60 carburetor, then you will need to do some parts swapping. How much swapping of what parts depends on how patient you're willing to be and how much money, time, and effort you're willing to put into this. The '60 intake manifold does not have the extra 1/4" hole on the carb mounting pad. This hole was provided as the PCV flow pass-thru starting on the '61 manifolds (cast iron). There's a matching hole on the bottom of the throttle body of a PCV-compatible carb, leading to the nipple at the left front corner of the carb where the PCV hose attaches. You can't just drill the 1/4" hole in the manifold yourself, because there's no metal there for it; the carb mount was slightly enlarged to accommodate it.

    One workaround involves swapping on a '61-up intake manifold and one of several different suitable carburetors.

    Another workaround that leaves the existing intake in place: In '67 on the Carter BBS, a couple years later on the Holley 1920, the PCV arrangement on the carburetor was moved over to the right (inboard, driver's) side and the pass-thru was completely contained within the throttle body; it entered at an inward-downward angle so there was no longer a need for that 1/4" hole on the outboard side of the carb mount pad:

    Carbase.jpg


    This can't be surgically done on an earlier carb without ruining it, but there are carburetors that have the appropriate throttle lever for the '60-'66 rotating-rod throttle linkage and the inboard-side PCV port. They were mostly service replacement carburetors meant to fit a range of year/model Slant-6 cars, and one of these would neatly solve the problem for you. The trick is finding one; at this late date good Slant-6 carburetors have grown scarce and expensive. Here is a brand-new one (ad says "225", but it will work just fine on a 170).

    This project you have in mind is worth doing; even with an engine in good shape, normal crankcase vapours and fumes stink.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2022
  5. Professor Fate

    Professor Fate Push the button, Max...

    Messages:
    3,535
    Likes Received:
    5150
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2020
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Local Time:
    5:58 PM
    I learned something new today! I bow to the master... :)
    Sorry if I inadvertently passed on some dubious information.
     
  6. AJ/FormS

    AJ/FormS 68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s FABO Gold Member

    Messages:
    22,898
    Likes Received:
    9920
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2014
    Location:
    South-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevation
    Local Time:
    5:58 PM
    The road-draft tube works better, the faster you drive it. At idle and stopped it still stinks up your interior upholstery.
     
  7. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

    Messages:
    23,047
    Likes Received:
    12516
    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2004
    Location:
    Tustin, CA
    Local Time:
    3:58 PM
    plumb it into the exhaust header evac style with the road draft style tip. Use a one way rubber flapper valve like on a pulse motor (Mazda MA/1970's Courier 2.0)
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Bewy

      Bewy Well-Known Member

      Messages:
      2,215
      Likes Received:
      1423
      Joined:
      Jan 1, 2021
      Location:
      Australia
      Local Time:
      8:58 AM
      You may be able to drill your carb base to take a 1/8" NPT fitting/3/8" hose barb. Hole needs to be below the t/blades. Simple then to hook up to a PCV on the valve cover.

      Bear in mind that there will be a small increase in idle rpm so you should check that you have some adjustment on the idle speed screw to reset idle speed. Idle mixture will also need adjusting.
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

      Messages:
      86,484
      Likes Received:
      68781
      Joined:
      Jun 7, 2010
      Location:
      Georgia
      Local Time:
      6:58 PM
      I can't think of why I'd need a valve. Lots of low pressure would be right where it intersected the exhaust. He could plumb in an air diverter valve from a catalytic converter if he really was concerned with it.
       
    1. This site uses cookies to help personalize content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
      By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.