Performance Converter

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70dart340

70dart340

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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I've read previous threads on the subject, but looking for fresh information. I'm building a 408 stroker, 10:1 Malhe pistons, Molnar forged crank, H beam rods, with a voodoo solid roller cam, 279/285@ .050, .585/.600 LSA/ICL 110/106. 727, 8 3/4 with 3.73 Auburn SG. Tires are stock size 215/14's. I'm more interested in which companies I should contact to have a custom converter made for my application. Coan seems to be a highly regarded company. Pretend you're spending my money......
 
Coan is a damn good start. Edge, Precision of New Hampton, Dynamic, PTC, ATI, TCS just to name a few good ones. The important thing is to CALL. A lot of people try batting emails back and forth and that never turns out well.
 
Thanks, Georgia, from an old 'Gator, soon to return to the Motherland. Feel free to PM me with blasting questions, I've tried them all, and have mucho experience. Not an expert, but I can tell you what doesn't work in high humidity atmospheres. Anybody on the left coast you could recommend?
 
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Abodyjoe nailed it twice! His words could not be truer!
The places he recommended I know have super excellent reputations. I’ve been told a lot of times to contact “Lenny” @ Ultimate.
 
70dart340 said:
Thanks, Georgia, from an old 'Gator, soon to return to the Motherland. Feel free to PM me with blasting questions, I've tried them all, and have mucho experience. Not an expert, but I can tell you what doesn't work in high humidity atmospheres. Anybody on the left coast you could recommend?
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A-1 Transmissions and Converters.......best I have had in my car so far.
 
abodyjoe said:
the biggest thing in ordering a converter is to be 100% honest about the combo and even more important the intended use.. if you aren't then no matter who makes the converter you won't be happy..

https://www.ultimateconverter.com/

Dynamic Converters // Pro-Formance Transmissions

Performance Torque Converters - Specializing in Race Converters & Transmissions Design & Manufacturing
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ULTIMATE sucks ***......gave me one in exchange for 1150 dollars and dripped from the second it was installed, 2 pinholes in the welds for the input hub and after contacting Lenny and him insisting it couldn't be the converter we R/R it multiple times after changing everything but the converter and then I decided to air check it, something he never obviously did, and found the pin holes and also a cracked input hub. He told me it was a vendor issue as he didn't think it was a 2 piece hub and he fixed it AFTER CHARGING ME AGAIN!!!!!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Coan is a damn good start. Edge, Precision of New Hampton, Dynamic, PTC, ATI, TCS just to name a few good ones. The important thing is to CALL. A lot of people try batting emails back and forth and that never turns out well.
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Truth be known, Precision of New Hampton probably builds most of the converters you listed.
 
70dart340 said:
I've read previous threads on the subject, but looking for fresh information. I'm building a 408 stroker, 10:1 Malhe pistons, Molnar forged crank, H beam rods, with a voodoo solid roller cam, 279/285@ .050, .585/.600 LSA/ICL 110/106. 727, 8 3/4 with 3.73 Auburn SG. Tires are stock size 215/14's. I'm more interested in which companies I should contact to have a custom converter made for my application. Coan seems to be a highly regarded company. Pretend you're spending my money......
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Looks like a awesome engine build.
You may want to consider put a bigger tire on the car before you invest in a converter. The torque you will have will fry those 215/14's
 
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I talked to Rick at A&A transmission for an hour about my 727 transmission build to go behind my 383 motor, he knows his business. He suggested what parts to use, I went with their 2500-2800 torque convertor, one of their valve bodies, bands, clutches, some billet parts for the internals and a deeper pan. I've put about 1000 miles on it so far and the car drives totally different then when I had the old soft transmission.
 
I'm very happy with my 8" ATI Treemaster with my 408. You have more cam than me but regardless, those tires don't stand a chance with a 408. At the track, my trans temp is only about 180 at the end of a pass using a separate cooler without the radiator. Drives pretty normal putzing around until you drop the hammer...then hang on. As others have stated, call and talk to the converter companies. You'll get what you're looking for if you provide them your expected power/tq and planned usage.
 
512Stroker said:
Looks like a awesome engine build.
You may want to consider put a bigger tire on the car before you invest in a converter. The torque you will have will fry those 215/14's
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I have 2 sets of ralleys, and the original steelies with the dog dish hubcaps. I'm trying to keep it stock looking, as it's a numbers matching car with the complete build sheet. Maybe I can get a pair widened for strip runs. I'm sure I'll need some caltracs or other traction aids, too. Trying to keep it stock appearing. Thanks to all for your recommendations. Paul.
 
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70dart340 said:
I have 2 sets of ralleya, and the original steelies with the dog dish hubcaps. I'm trying to keep it stocl looking, as it's a numbers matching car with the complete build sheet. Maybe I can get a pair widened for strip runs. I'm sure I'll need some caltracs or other traction aids, too. Trying to keep it stock appearing. Thanks to all for your recommendations. Paul.
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I believe that someone is producing a steel Mopar wheel in 15 inch sizes.
I had them on my old Satellite.
Detroit Wheel?
 
70dart340 said:
I have 2 sets of ralleya, and the original steelies with the dog dish hubcaps. I'm trying to keep it stocl looking, as it's a numbers matching car with the complete build sheet. Maybe I can get a pair widened for strip runs. I'm sure I'll need some caltracs or other traction aids, too. Trying to keep it stock appearing. Thanks to all for your recommendations. Paul.
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That's gutsy running a numbers matching block with those internals. It would be hard for me not to rev that motor to 7K every time I had it out. I keep my numbers matching big block motor in the basement for that very reason. I guess I'm hard on my stuff.

As far as the rear wheels go, my 408 Magnum is down right dangerous to drive on the street without a set of 275/60-15 Nitto Drag Radials on the back. The car would spin them on the freeway without them and half the time every where else.

Also, EFI and overdrive sure add and enhance a lot of drivability to my car. I can understand not wanting to cut the cross member to add OD though. Then again, if you're never going to sell the car, who cares.
 
jbc426 said:
That's gutsy running a numbers matching block with those internals. It would be hard for me not to rev that motor to 7K every time I had it out. I keep my numbers matching big block motor in the basement for that very reason. I guess I'm hard on my stuff.

As far as the rear wheels go, my 408 Magnum is down right dangerous to drive on the street without a set of 275/60-15 Nitto Drag Radials on the back. The car would spin them on the freeway without them and half the time every where else.

Also, EFI and overdrive sure add and enhance a lot of drivability to my car. I can understand not wanting to cut the cross member to add OD though. Then again, if you're never going to sell the car, who cares.
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The Nitto drag radials are the worst traction drag radials of any of them.......just horrible.
 
I’ve used both PTC and Cohen both are very good you can’t go wrong with either one of those
 
Yr, me and our buddy's are very happy with ptc converters, especially for applications like yours that could use a higher stall speed on the street. Our buddy has a dart, 400hp 340, 3.23s and I believe a 3,800 stall ptc and drives around town like stock.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Something doesn't look right about your .050s
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This is what the Lunati site shows for that cam. He showed the advertised duration:
"Solid Roller Cam. Excellent cam for street/strip applications. Has good mid range and excellent upper RPM, torque and HP. Works well in 346-360 c.i. motors. Needs 3200-3500 RPM stall converter or 4 speed transmission, headers, 10.5:1+ compression ratio or better and 4.10 gearing. Rough idle; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 279/285; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 249/255; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .585/.600; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): 016/016; RPM Range: 3000-7000;"
 
I'm open to criticism about my cam choice. I know YR doesn't like split durations, but it seems to meet my parameters. I'm not thin skinned, so fire away with a better choice, as it's Covid back ordered. All advice is appreciated.
 
70dart340 said:
I'm open to criticism about my cam choice. I know YR doesn't like split durations, but it seems to meet my parameters. I'm not thin skinned, so fire away with a better choice, as it's Covid back ordered. All advice is appreciated.
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Meh, just run it man. You start second guessin that and then what? Just get it built and be happy.
 
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