performer rpm heads with ARP studs. conflicting torque values.

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Id say go with edelbrock since its aluminum it needs diffrent tq specs as opposed to arp which is set for the stock heads but for a true answer id contact both companys and ask them directly.
 
I'd go with 80, AL can actually compress under too much torque. AL MC electrical cable needs to be retorqued as it 'flows' under the set screws.
 
440 Source Heads, they say much the same. The torque specs for the alum heads are not the same as for ARP bolts. 440 Source says use there specs on there heads. The damage would be to the head not the bolt when you think about it.
 
It has been pointed out by others with more experience that the initial stud install is without minimal torque (inch pounds) & then the torque-ing of the heads that you are talking about with the nut onto the stud onto the head and gasket to the block.

I am certain that you know that, but if someone else comes upon this thread, they might try to initially torque the studs by the selves with 80 foot pounds...
:)
 
I got concerned too. I think he is talking SB heads, as they are 110 lbs according to APR....Big block heads are @ 80 for studs, 70 for bolts
 
the arp lube is slipperier thats why the higher number...u would use a different number with oil
 
Also use a pattern that works from the center out alternating look up torqueing sequence for aluminium heads on ls1 engines for a reference
 
If the bore has been finished without a torque plate, I'm using the lower torque figure. If the bore has been finished with a torque plate, I'm using the same head gasket, thread depth, style of fastener and torque reading that was used when honed. That is, if the torque plate was held down with bolts I use bolts at the same thread depth when the head goes on. I don't hone with a composite gasket and then switch to a MLS gasket to run the engine. If I'm going to use studs in the engine I don't fasten the torque plate with bolts, even if I have to buy special studs just to hone with.

And then..........sometimes you just do what you can do..............
 
Me personally 90 on the bottom and 100 on the top bolts (with oil). I also let the gasket compress overnight then come back the next morning loosen it all up and do it again one more time.
 
IQ52 said:
If the bore has been finished without a torque plate, I'm using the lower torque figure. If the bore has been finished with a torque plate, I'm using the same head gasket, thread depth, style of fastener and torque reading that was used when honed. That is, if the torque plate was held down with bolts I use bolts at the same thread depth when the head goes on. I don't hone with a composite gasket and then switch to a MLS gasket to run the engine. If I'm going to use studs in the engine I don't fasten the torque plate with bolts, even if I have to buy special studs just to hone with.

And then..........sometimes you just do what you can do..............
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^^^ this. If you have no idea, and you're using studs, use the lower figure. With ARP lube they will still be clamping harder (and distorting the bore more) than any bolt. This choice should have been made when the plan was being thought up - well before any machining was done.
 
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