Pertronix - yes another one...

-
dartnlo

dartnlo

Has Dart Fever
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2018
Messages
541
Reaction score
502
Location
Lawrence, Kansas
In a week I'm headed to pick up my rolling restoration 1972 Dart with a 318 and drive it back home 500 miles. I'm bringing a Pertronix II 91381 ignition ignitor and coil. I've read all the articles and watched the videos but I'm still unsure of one thing.

On the ignition resistor, I just bypass that at the fire wall right? I drew out what I'm imagining you do. People seem to give different advice based on old versions of the ignitor. I've seen videos, especially on fords where they do something with a wire behind the instrument cluster. I've read some comments where people say something like "you still need the ballast resistor" and "you have to remove the resistor" and even "you can leave the resistor but it's better without it.

Also with the Pertronix II is it ok to have the ignition in the "on" position for a short time like less than 5 minutes?

I plan on keeping the points and condenser in the glove box.

Here is my drawing. Is it right?

pertronix_diagram.jpg
 
Your drawing is correct. I have Pertronix 1 on my 273 and I completely removed the BR. Pertronix likes a full 12 Volts. Your jumper wire effectively bypasses the BR.
 
DesertRat said:
Your drawing is correct. I have Pertronix 1 on my 273 and I completely removed the BR. Pertronix likes a full 12 Volts. Your jumper wire effectively bypasses the BR.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the validation. Yeah the picture of the bypass was just for ease of drawing. I'd probably just run a new wire straight to the coil.

Thanks!
 
I use Pertronix on most of my stuff. And to keep it stock looking, I solder a wire behind the resistor to bypass it...Looks stock.. Also I shrink wrap the two wires from the distributor. Gotta look close to pick it out...
 
Yup , cool , throw the points , condenser and ballast in the trash . their coil needs 12 volts at cranking . Check your distributor shaft for end play and side to side movement . excessive play contributes to spark scatter .
 
DesertRat said:
Your drawing is correct. I have Pertronix 1 on my 273 and I completely removed the BR. Pertronix likes a full 12 Volts. Your jumper wire effectively bypasses the BR.
Click to expand...
When you removed the BR, what did you do with the wires that went to the BR originally? I'm just curious as I would kind of like to clean up my engine compartment a bit.
 
VashonMopar said:
When you removed the BR, what did you do with the wires that went to the BR originally? I'm just curious as I would kind of like to clean up my engine compartment a bit.
Click to expand...
My rewire was very extensive, I removed the dash and in the engine bay I started at the bulkhead connector and disassembled the engine bay harness down to individual wires and started from scratch to wire the car the way I wanted including the MAD conversion and the crackedback headlight relay kit. I can't remember the specifics of the BR removal but now my firewall looks like it never existed. I installed underdash and engine bay ground bars tied together and tied to the battery negative and ran all the grounds I could to the ground bars individually.
 
on the british cars we service been having issues with pertronix
we disconnect them if we have key it on for more than 5 seconds
they seem to blow
 
67belevdere/225 said:
on the british cars we service been having issues with pertronix
we disconnect them if we have key it on for more than 5 seconds
they seem to blow
Click to expand...

That's some of the discussion I've read. But I can't nail down which version it is on. I am almost certain the Pertronix III eliminates this but not sure about Version II.
 
Ideally you want a low resistance (.6 ohm primary) coil when running without the ballast. A coil with a higher primary resistance could warm up with full voltage going through. I bought the 45011 Flamethrower coil after installing a Pertronics ignition module in my 66.
 
66fyssh said:
Ideally you want a low resistance (.6 ohm primary) coil when running without the ballast. A coil with a higher primary resistance could warm up with full voltage going through. I bought the 45011 Flamethrower coil after installing a Pertronics ignition module in my 66.
Click to expand...
Yep, I'm getting the Flame-Thrower II 45111, it has the same specs as the 40511, but this is what they recommended with the 91381A Ignitor II
 
VashonMopar said:
When you removed the BR, what did you do with the wires that went to the BR originally? I'm just curious as I would kind of like to clean up my engine compartment a bit.
Click to expand...
Just make a jumper wire from one wire that goes to the BR to the other wire. Done. Just like your diagram. Remove BR, wire connecting one side to the other. You sure hear some crap on the internet. I've put two different styles in Fords. They don't require any resistors. I do use the recommended coil. That burning up must be a british thing. I'm not saying leave the key on, but I'm sure I've had it on for more than 5 seconds, and nothing burnt up.
 
furyus2 said:
Just make a jumper wire from one wire that goes to the BR to the other wire. Done. Just like your diagram. Remove BR, wire connecting one side to the other. You sure hear some crap on the internet. I've put two different styles in Fords. They don't require any resistors. I do use the recommended coil. That burning up must be a british thing. I'm not saying leave the key on, but I'm sure I've had it on for more than 5 seconds, and nothing burnt up.
Click to expand...
Im not sure a British thing as the system is basically the same as any other car ,just the mounting is different
the internals are the same, and it is recent that they have been failing.So we are cautious when leaving key
on
 
Only the first Pertronics module burnt up with the key on engine not running. The Pertronics II and up that problem was fixed. Just make sure you use the correct coil listed for which Pertronics system you have. Also like others have said no resistor.
 
DesertRat said:
Your drawing is correct. I have Pertronix 1 on my 273 and I completely removed the BR. Pertronix likes a full 12 Volts. Your jumper wire effectively bypasses the BR.
Click to expand...
I'm running a pertronix on my /6, don't remember if I bypassed the B/R or not. But you say it should get a full 12 volts.
 
MOPARMITCH said:
I use Pertronix on most of my stuff. And to keep it stock looking, I solder a wire behind the resistor to bypass it...Looks stock.. Also I shrink wrap the two wires from the distributor. Gotta look close to pick it out...
Click to expand...

This works and looks great if you like a stock bay. I for one do! Using III and love it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top