Petronix ignition question

[rp23g7]

Probably a dumb question.

In the instructions for use without a ballast it states:

blah blah blah, Remove the resistor and splice the disconnected wires together at a single point.

Do they mean splice the brown ignition wire and run it to the coil, or

splice both wires on the right hand side of the ballast, the blue and the brown, then run them to the coil seperatley?

What do you do with the black wire on the left side of the ballast?

 

[RedFish]

Or one blah to blue, one blah to brown, one blah to black ?

I think they mean bundle all 3 or 4 of those disconnected from the resistor together.
My best guess anyway.

 

[Vitamin c]

i helped my brother in law do this install on his 68 dart. If i remember correctly you are suppose to remove the ballast completly and splice the wires on each side together. He did one better, and to keep a factory look, gutted the ballast and soldered a wire connecting the two spades of the ballast together. without looking at the backside you would never know its been modified.

 

[clifftt]

Brilliant idea! rp23g7: Which Pertronix Ignitor are you using?

 

[rp23g7]

Brilliant idea! rp23g7: Which Pertronix Ignitor are you using?

The Igniter2 with a MSD Blaster coil

 

[clifftt]

Is this on your Sacamp? That's what I wanted to try. Good luck, I'll be checking in to see how well it works. I'm looking to smooth out the idle and get rid of that "rich" mix smell.

 

[rp23g7]

Is this on your Sacamp? That's what I wanted to try. Good luck, I'll be checking in to see how well it works. I'm looking to smooth out the idle and get rid of that "rich" mix smell.

No, the Scamp is gone, still sitting down at Kompact Kar Korner waiting for someone to buy it. But it should help out yours, and my 440. Just wondering how to hook those wires up, in case it decides to quit and i need to go back to original.

 

[clifftt]

(Three days later.....)
So, rp, how's the Pertronix thing going?

 

[64_Barracuda]

I did the pertronix in my 64, I could not believe the difference it was night and day. The timing light is dead on no matter what. I left in my ballast because I am using a stock coil, I just hooked it up to the 12vdc hot side on the ballast. I suppose though if you use a none ballast coil removing the ballast is no big deal.

 

[rp23g7]

(Three days later.....)
So, rp, how's the Pertronix thing going?

I replaced everything following the instructions. and started it up, it started fine, but ran like crud.

So i checked the timing, plugged the advance......ummmmm hello where is the mark? It was way advanced all of a sudden. I thought i had put the timing light on No 3 cylinder, checked it twice, No. 1.

So i set it to around 15 btdc, and it ran like crud still, messed around and finally got it to run passably around 0 degrees, so i drove it, pinged all to heck.

I thought i had put it in 180 off, but the little plate can only go in one way. I messed with it for a bit and finally gave up and put the points back in.

 

[805moparkid]

I replaced everything following the instructions. and started it up, it started fine, but ran like crud.

So i checked the timing, plugged the advance......ummmmm hello where is the mark? It was way advanced all of a sudden. I thought i had put the timing light on No 3 cylinder, checked it twice, No. 1.

So i set it to around 15 btdc, and it ran like crud still, messed around and finally got it to run passably around 0 degrees, so i drove it, pinged all to heck.

I thought i had put it in 180 off, but the little plate can only go in one way. I messed with it for a bit and finally gave up and put the points back in.

when wireing in an ignitor u have to give it direct battery voltage. when i flip the ballast resisitor over u can see which pins go to what, just direct connect those. for the "single" style resisitors u just put them right together and then hook hook the ignitor right to the coil! thats what i did.

if u run the ballast the ignitor may not get enough voltage and strange things happen

 

[64_Barracuda]

Yup same thing happened to me, I kept the ballast except intially I hooked to the other side, the 8.5 volt side. Car ran like crap. Went to the keyed 12vdc side still didnt run quite right, I let it warm up and sure enough the timing was way off. I corrected the timing and it ran fine ever since.

 

[rp23g7]

when wireing in an ignitor u have to give it direct battery voltage. when i flip the ballast resisitor over u can see which pins go to what, just direct connect those. for the "single" style resisitors u just put them right together and then hook hook the ignitor right to the coil! thats what i did.

if u run the ballast the ignitor may not get enough voltage and strange things happen

I wasnt using the ballast resistor. I found a two sided male spade connector and plugged the two together, and wired the pos and neg wires the way the instructions had them in the little diagram.

 

[64_Barracuda]

Does your coil still require a ballast resistor? Some MSD coils have internal ballast some don't.

 

[rp23g7]

Does your coil still require a ballast resistor? Some MSD coils have internal ballast some don't.

UMM, dont know, its a Blaster 2 Coil. on their site they just say, BR required for points.

 

[64_Barracuda]

If it worked good with points and the ballast hooked up to it. If I were you I would leave the ballast and replace the points with the pertronix, thats how mine is set up and it runs great. Just remember to hook your red pertronix wire to the Keyed on 12 vdc side of the ballast.

It sounds though you may have fried your coil.

I just looked at my Pertronix Instructions, you are Figure 3.

I think Figure 2 is like for Chevy HEI coil or something.

 

[rp23g7]

If it worked good with points and the ballast hooked up to it. If I were you I would leave the ballast and replace the points with the pertronix, thats how mine is set up and it runs great. Just remember to hook your red pertronix wire to the Keyed on 12 vdc side of the ballast.

It sounds though you may have fried your coil.

I just looked at my Pertronix Instructions, you are Figure 3.

I think Figure 2 is like for Chevy HEI coil or something.

I think its ok, i put the points back in, retimed it and drove it. Seemed normal.

 

[64_Barracuda]

Then put the pertronix in and leave the ballast. One of the troubleshooting Questions is this needs to be just the way the points were so leave it like that and see what happens.

If it still runs bad when the car is running, put a meter on the red lead that supplies the pertronix 12vdc. if its not 12vdc then cut the power wire (battery disconnected) and go right to the battery for troubleshooting purposes. I think that was in the manual.

 

[rp23g7]

I will try that sometime next week and see what happens

 

[clifftt]

rp: Did you work on your ignition this weekend?

 

[clifftt]

A bump for rp, he's gonna tell us all how he got his Pertronix to work.....

 

[clifftt]

A bump for rp, he's gonna tell us all how he got his Pertronix to work.....

 

[rp23g7]

LOL, they sent me the wrong system, wrong stuff in the right box.

I installed it and the car ran like crud. Timing mark was no where to be seen.

I timed it and it turned out to run ok at 0 degrees, but it wouldnt drive down the road worth a darn.

Worked on it for a hr, thought i had put it in backwards, finally gave up and put the points back in, and sent the stuff back, they should be sending me a new box soon.

 

[dgc333]

UMM, dont know, its a Blaster 2 Coil. on their site they just say, BR required for points.

The blaster 2 requires a ballast resistor for either a points or electronic inductive ignition. It doesn't need it when used with the MSD box. The instructions are not reclear on that.

BUT, the Ignitor II has the ability to vary the dwel over the RPM range and as such you won't need the ballast. You would if it was the standard Ignitor.

 

[rp23g7]

I had the ballast bypassed, i talked to their Tech support, i had the module for a small block chevy, ewww, no wonder it wouldnt run right.