Pick a clutch.....any clutch

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Ironmike

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Decided to just start a new thread and see what happens. Hoping to get some real hardcore suggestions. YR, RRR, SG, ,,hope you guys jump in.

So here's the scenario: you need a clutch and pressure plate. Sold a bunch of crap so money is put aside just for this.

3040 pound Demon
4:30 rear
578 horse, 550 ft lbs
Aluminum SFI flywheel in a QT housing

You will see mostly heavy street use with once a month test and tune, just for fun. Where I live there's a lot of "No prep" stuff going on.

Here's the kicker: you HAVE to use a diaphragm p plate cause of a hydraulic TO bearing.

I'm pulling my hair out trying to decide. You guys always have a way of steering me in the right direction.
 
mderoy340 said:
centerforce
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What Centerforce? I ran their dual friction set up years back. It's pretty brutal on parts, if you have some power. Like a friggin light switch, on or off and no in between.

Never failed me though, but I don't like the weights.
 
If you have the money, a McLeod sof-loc is a nice peice, supposed to be race only, but it can be street driven
 
Have you ever driven a car with a McLeod dual disc racing clutch, you will never go back if you can afford it. No pedal pressure, very easy to hold at a light hooks up like theirs no tomorrow. I had a guy put one in a hemi bee and he couldn't believe how nice it was. They make a street version but it only good to about 600 HP IIRC. My friend had one in a blown 72 cuda with a hemi and it held up great.
 
I ran an adjustable many years ago. Definitely the best choice if I was racing a lot. But if I remember, i had to change my adjustment every time I went from street to track and visa versa. Would need to send my scattersheild to QT to cut an access hole. I think a soft lock is out.

I really like the dual disc concept, but all you ever seem to hear is bad stuff. I'd really like to hear from someone who has some miles on one. Pretty big investment if it's all just hype.
 
Will a McLeod 75209 do the job? Used this in a 72 Cuda 416 . Not to the degree of a build you have but take a look.
 
you can drill a hole on back side to adjust clutch. don't need to send it to anyone!!! we have a .750 hole drilled in ours. hell of lot easier to adjust , versus a window on the bell!
 
Max1196 said:
Will a McLeod 75209 do the job? Used this in a 72 Cuda 416 . Not to the degree of a build you have but take a look.
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I don’t think it’ll hold up for the OP’s application. It’s only rated to 500 hp. I run that clutch in my Duster behind a ~400 hp 340, it works well but I don’t think I’d put it up against 550 ft-lbs.
 
I say a version of Ram's single disc "Coyote Special" configured for your application. It's not on their website, but it's basically the adjustable diaphragm pp that they use with their dual disc Pro Street clutch, combined with a single 900 series iron disc. Same disc Ram uses in the Powergrip HD. There's no problem streeting this clutch, far less pedal pressure than an actual Powergrip HD which has 2800lbs of clamp.

My Coyote Stock customers use this clutch and are similar weight/gear as you with a 28" tire, likely less torque than you. Pressure range on the chart is 200-2250, Ram's suggested pressure for the sealed Coyote engine is 1550. My Coyote customers set it up for higher clamp than Ram suggests, then use my ClutchTamer to control the hit. Guys using that clutch in cars that were not sealed engine or class legal weight have gone 9.17 @ 147 at 2680lbs. The sealed engine guys at class legal 3100lbs have been 10.0 @ 132.

Grant
 
If you have to run a diaphragm clutch and hydraulic throwout bearing. Then weedburner suggestion is your best option unless you like breaking parts. The dual disc clutch in my opinion puts to much spinning mass on input shaft for quick shifts.
 
Well can't believe I did it, but talked to a guy today who's been running a dual disc setup for a few years, so I bit the bullet and ordered one.

McLeod RXT. SUPPOSEDLY.........I'll never go back to single disc. We'll see....


Edit hours later. Calling Summit tomorrow when the rooster crows to cancel the dual disc. Spent an hour on the phone hearing some pretty bad horror stories. I'm not taking that chance.

So I'm back to researching ......
 
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I run a soft-loc clutch with a Jerico DR-4 on the street, 90% of stick car drivers would say this combo is not streetable. I am use to it, you can't be aggressive on the street with it or you will burn the clutch up. My clutch is set up for 5000 rpm launches, as the rpm's drop lower there is more slip in the clutch. Know back to Grant's Clutch Tamer, get yourself a 10.5 inch 2200 to 2400# diaphragm pressure plate and a 900 series 10.5 inch disc in your spline count( you will have to order these a la carte) and then go to clutchtamer.com read the hole article. Buy the clutch tamer and don't look back, it will be the cheapest clutch set up you will find for the money. This is what I will do to mine when the time comes to go back to more street than strip.
 
Yeah I read the whole clutch tamer thing. Pretty cool. For a once a month TNT guy like me, maybe it's a bit of overkill.
If I was racing, I'd have one in a minute.
 
Well you either put your mind in the right mindset for a clutch like a soft loc at around $2500 or a clutch tamer an diaphragm clutch and disc for around $600 to $700 or go to the track once or twice a year while you are saving money for all the parts you are going to break and believe me you are going to break lots of parts. Ask me how I know?
 
19DART66 said:
Well you either put your mind in the right mindset for a clutch like a soft loc at around $2500 or a clutch tamer an diaphragm clutch and disc for around $600 to $700 or go to the track once or twice a year while you are saving money for all the parts you are going to break and believe me you are going to break lots of parts. Ask me how I know?
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That is a totally accurate response....
You PAY for hard hammering on any stick shift. ...
 
" THIS" isn't going to work period. Brewers is a great company but they sell parts for street cars not race cars.
 
Good call on canceling your order on the rst/rxt twin disc from McLeod. I had a coustom built 9.75 one directly from McLeod. It was so I could keep my small flywheel & bell for early A body v-8. It was the worst shifting (trashed synchro's) grabbie'est clutch EVER! had it warranty'ed twice for race clutch type chatter on take off. Got all my money back. Customer svc is great with them. But don't spend neer as much R&D time for us mopar people if ya ask me. Went to ram they built me a hybrid organic/iron single disc clutch & boy I couldn't be happier with it!!!! Takes every bit of my driving behind a healthy 273! Ram for the win I my book! Except for the pressure plate. It had too short of release fingers installed in it! Had them replaced locality at Lincoln Clutch & Brake. Ram paid me back for that fix aswell.

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Ironmike said:
What Centerforce? I ran their dual friction set up years back. It's pretty brutal on parts, if you have some power. Like a friggin light switch, on or off and no in between.

Never failed me though, but I don't like the weights.
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I'm pushing near the power you have and run the dual friction center force. Had to make a pivot bracket out of 1/4 plate because the stock one cracked over and over. I run a Lakewood bell, the pedal feels great...you just need to get used to a performance clutch, stock is was smoother for a reason, they don' have the holding power.

2nd choice Southland clutch, great pedal.

Btw hard pedal is a the Hayes strip clutch, lasted 6 months on the street and one hell of a hard pedal...made the action harsh and trying to slip it ...killed it.
 
I run a McLeod RXT twin disc in my Dart. Have not been to track with it yet. So far on street I love it, very little pedal pressure needed.

Has anyone here tried the Clutch Tamer? I might try it, can't hurt to try.
CLUTCHTAMER.COM
 
Hipo65... You are getting 550+ hp out of a 273 ? Whats your build like?
 
mullinax95 said:
If it was me I'd call Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists and talk to them about the intended use and HP/TQ.
I was going to go with Centerforce but they suggested Mcleod and I couldn't have been any happier.
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I totally agree with this. And I'm not sure I agree with the comment that insinuates they can't help with a racing application. Those guys are VERY sharp, and I'd bet just about anything they can help. And if they can't, you are only out the few minutes it took to call them.
 
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