Pictures of my next project

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yellow rose

yellow rose

Overnight Sensation
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Here are the pictures Jpar wanted. This will be a (hopefully) 401 inch R block W2 engine.
I also have the rods but I think I'm going to sell them and use 6.250 SBC rods if I can find them.

image.jpeg

R block. Must be an R1 but I haven't seen it in awhile and I can't find the sonic test sheet for it. That's why I think 401 CID. A 4.100 bore if IIRC what the sonic test said.


image.jpeg
image.jpeg


W2 Strip Dominator on the left. W5 SD on the right. The W5 SD is 100% virgin. Want to sell the W5 intake. You in Rumble?? This is right in your wheel house.



image.jpeg
image.jpeg


Closed chamber W2's. Don't know if I'll use these or the open chamber heads I have. I hate that chamber.

image.jpeg


Milodon Super Stock pan and swinging pick up.


image.jpeg


3.79 stroke crank. I will drill the crank pins to a .750 hole and ream the holes to help keep rotating weight down. And most likely I'll trim the counterweights down maybe .100ish and use Mallory to balance it.

image.jpeg
image.jpeg


Milodon gear drive. This is the only thing I use to drive the cam. Simple. Strong. Deadly accurate. My cam timing will be exactly the same 10 years after I'm dead.

image.jpeg


I also have a Fluidamper here somewhere that's NIB. And a complete set of brand new MP 1.6 rockers, new shafts and stands. The rockers will go to Mike at B3 to be converted to cup adjusters, and maybe bronze bushings. I'll be buying some 4 bolts caps from Rocket here shortly and if he's out, I'll buy the Milodon caps. All I'll need is Pistons, rings, bearings, springs, retainers and locks.

There you go.
 
yellow rose said:
Here are the pictures Jpar wanted. This will be a (hopefully) 401 inch R block W2 engine.
I also have the rods but I think I'm going to sell them and use 6.250 SBC rods if I can find them.

View attachment 1715395384
R block. Must be an R1 but I haven't seen it in awhile and I can't find the sonic test sheet for it. That's why I think 401 CID. A 4.100 bore if IIRC what the sonic test said.


View attachment 1715395385 View attachment 1715395386

W2 Strip Dominator on the left. W5 SD on the right. The W5 SD is 100% virgin. Want to sell the W5 intake. You in Rumble?? This is right in your wheel house.



View attachment 1715395387View attachment 1715395388

Closed chamber W2's. Don't know if I'll use these or the open chamber heads I have. I hate that chamber.

View attachment 1715395389

Milodon Super Stock pan and swinging pick up.


View attachment 1715395390

3.79 stroke crank. I will drill the crank pins to a .750 hole and ream the holes to help keep rotating weight down. And most likely I'll trim the counterweights down maybe .100ish and use Mallory to balance it.

View attachment 1715395391View attachment 1715395392

Milodon gear drive. This is the only thing I use to drive the cam. Simple. Strong. Deadly accurate. My cam timing will be exactly the same 10 years after I'm dead.

View attachment 1715395393

I also have a Fluidamper here somewhere that's NIB. And a complete set of brand new MP 1.6 rockers, new shafts and stands. The rockers will go to Mike at B3 to be converted to cup adjusters, and maybe bronze bushings. I'll be buying some 4 bolts caps from Rocket here shortly and if he's out, I'll buy the Milodon caps. All I'll need is Pistons, rings, bearings, springs, retainers and locks.

There you go.
Click to expand...
I think I'm in love.
 
yellow rose said:
Here are the pictures Jpar wanted. This will be a (hopefully) 401 inch R block W2 engine.
I also have the rods but I think I'm going to sell them and use 6.250 SBC rods if I can find them.

View attachment 1715395384
R block. Must be an R1 but I haven't seen it in awhile and I can't find the sonic test sheet for it. That's why I think 401 CID. A 4.100 bore if IIRC what the sonic test said.


View attachment 1715395385 View attachment 1715395386

W2 Strip Dominator on the left. W5 SD on the right. The W5 SD is 100% virgin. Want to sell the W5 intake. You in Rumble?? This is right in your wheel house.



View attachment 1715395387View attachment 1715395388

Closed chamber W2's. Don't know if I'll use these or the open chamber heads I have. I hate that chamber.

View attachment 1715395389

Milodon Super Stock pan and swinging pick up.


View attachment 1715395390

3.79 stroke crank. I will drill the crank pins to a .750 hole and ream the holes to help keep rotating weight down. And most likely I'll trim the counterweights down maybe .100ish and use Mallory to balance it.

View attachment 1715395391View attachment 1715395392

Milodon gear drive. This is the only thing I use to drive the cam. Simple. Strong. Deadly accurate. My cam timing will be exactly the same 10 years after I'm dead.

View attachment 1715395393

I also have a Fluidamper here somewhere that's NIB. And a complete set of brand new MP 1.6 rockers, new shafts and stands. The rockers will go to Mike at B3 to be converted to cup adjusters, and maybe bronze bushings. I'll be buying some 4 bolts caps from Rocket here shortly and if he's out, I'll buy the Milodon caps. All I'll need is Pistons, rings, bearings, springs, retainers and locks.

There you go.
Click to expand...
Then what..
 
I have what might be a dumbass question... But you are drilling holes, to replace with Mallory, how is that a benefit?
 
How much do you want for the Durango, what year is it. lol
BTW nice collection of parts. probably just a needle in a haystack though.
 
j par said:
Then what..
Click to expand...


Then, I'll put it in the car and take it out and start ripping the bracing out behind the seat, blowing out the front spring eye, knocking the paint off the quarter panels from the body flex and crap like that.

Then I'll be pissed off, fab some sub frame connectors and add a roll bar, mini tub it and then shot myself in the head for making another race car.

BTDT. Standard stuff.
 
yellow rose said:
Then, I'll put it in the car and take it out and start ripping the bracing out behind the seat, blowing out the front spring eye, knocking the paint off the quarter panels from the body flex and crap like that.

Then I'll be pissed off, fab some sub frame connectors and add a roll bar, mini tub it and then shot myself in the head for making another race car.

BTDT. Standard stuff.
Click to expand...
Then what....
 
kgip2k said:
I have what might be a dumbass question... But you are drilling holes, to replace with Mallory, how is that a benefit?
Click to expand...


Drilling the holes in the Rod throws reduces the rotating weight. Like making the big end of the Rod lighter.

Reducing the OD of the counterweights essentially reduces the weight of the crank. When you do that, you lose the weight to make the crank balance. To correct that, you either have to use external balance, or add Mallory to get the weight back in the counterweight. That way, you have enough weight in the counter weight to internally balance the crank, but you have reduced rotating inertia.

I haven't weighed that crank but it's pig heavy. So just getting some bulk off would help.

If I had any balls at all, I'd run aluminum rods. Bill Miller swears up and down I can do 50k on a set of his aluminum rods on the street before they need to be looked at. If that's the case, I'd turn the counterweights down until I touch the Rod throws and then add the Mallory.
 
yellow rose said:
Drilling the holes in the Rod throws reduces the rotating weight. Like making the big end of the Rod lighter.

Reducing the OD of the counterweights essentially reduces the weight of the crank. When you do that, you lose the weight to make the crank balance. To correct that, you either have to use external balance, or add Mallory to get the weight back in the counterweight. That way, you have enough weight in the counter weight to internally balance the crank, but you have reduced rotating inertia.

I haven't weighed that crank but it's pig heavy. So just getting some bulk off would help.

If I had any balls at all, I'd run aluminum rods. Bill Miller swears up and down I can do 50k on a set of his aluminum rods on the street before they need to be looked at. If that's the case, I'd turn the counterweights down until I touch the Rod throws and then add the Mallory.
Click to expand...

I gotcha... You are just moving the weight to where it is beneficial.
 
j par said:
I think I'm in disbelief, also I have many customers with garages full of really cool parts...
Click to expand...


They were at my shop. My buddy moved in and we went in halves on a storage unit so he could put some of his crap in my shop. Some of it is still there. So the block and all that crap of mine went into the storage unit.

I was in PDX for a doc appointment. I helped my friend load up before I came over becuse he was moving to Salem for a better job. Got him all loaded up and then headed to PDX.

He called me the next day and said the storage unit we had went tits up!!! So I said get all my crap out of there and take it to your new house and I'll drive down and pick it up when I get down to Salem to set up your reloading press.

That's where I'm at now. Salem. Setting up his press, and picking up my parts.
 
And I just remembered that is an 8 bolt crank. So I need a new 500 buck flywheel.

Maybe I just make Jpar a smoking deal on my clutch and have Rob Youngblood at Advanced Clutches hook me up with his super light street/strip clutch!!!

Save your money Jpar.
 
fishmens67 said:
Solid roller ?
Click to expand...


IDK yet. Jim at Racer Brown wanted me to do a mushroom lifter deal for the engine in the car now, but I just went with a regular FT lifter.

Maybe a mushroom lifter deal this time. Or maybe a roller. I'd like to net .700 lift on this deal and don't know if I can get there even with a mushroom lifter.
 
yellow rose said:
IDK yet. Jim at Racer Brown wanted me to do a mushroom lifter deal for the engine in the car now, but I just went with a regular FT lifter.
Maybe a mushroom lifter deal this time. Or maybe a roller. I'd like to net .700 lift on this deal and don't know if I can get there even with a mushroom lifter.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a lot of work just to beat @j par although he does have a clutch tamer, and almost has aluminum heads... :)
 
yellow rose said:
Drilling the holes in the Rod throws reduces the rotating weight. Like making the big end of the Rod lighter.

Reducing the OD of the counterweights essentially reduces the weight of the crank. When you do that, you lose the weight to make the crank balance. To correct that, you either have to use external balance, or add Mallory to get the weight back in the counterweight. That way, you have enough weight in the counter weight to internally balance the crank, but you have reduced rotating inertia.

I haven't weighed that crank but it's pig heavy. So just getting some bulk off would help.

If I had any balls at all, I'd run aluminum rods. Bill Miller swears up and down I can do 50k on a set of his aluminum rods on the street before they need to be looked at. If that's the case, I'd turn the counterweights down until I touch the Rod throws and then add the Mallory.
Click to expand...


I put Bill Miller Rods in my buddy's 495, he drives it on the street not a lot of miles on it yet, but it was a tight fit in a RB, not sure about a SB. It's in a 67 Notch with a manual shift 727.
 
kgip2k said:
Sounds like a lot of work just to beat @j par although he does have a clutch tamer, and almost has aluminum heads... :)
Click to expand...
Let's not get **** started. and how would anyone know who they raced from the internet world.
I can't remember the last time someone asked are you Fishmens 67 ? cause I would say who the hell is he. lol
 
fishmens67 said:
Let's not get **** started. and how would anyone know who they raced from the internet world.
I can't remember the last time someone asked are you Fishmens 67 ? cause I would say who the hell is he. lol
Click to expand...

True... I'm sorry.
 
fishmens67 said:
Let's not get **** started. and how would anyone know who they raced from the internet world.
I can't remember the last time someone asked are you Fishmens 67 ? cause I would say who the hell is he. lol
Click to expand...
You got to be shitin me?! The title of the thread was not to get things started? Lol...
 
yellow rose said:
Then, I'll put it in the car and take it out and start ripping the bracing out behind the seat, blowing out the front spring eye, knocking the paint off the quarter panels from the body flex and crap like that.

Then I'll be pissed off, fab some sub frame connectors and add a roll bar, mini tub it and then shot myself in the head for making another race car.

BTDT. Standard stuff.
Click to expand...
This is the real then what that I wanted answered actually if possible...
 
@yellow rose

Thank you, but I have a pair (1 maximum street effort, 1 for the track. I also have a M1 standard port/bolt pattern tunnel ram I’m willing to modify for the job later, waiting on a better day coming soon I hope. LOL!
How knows? Maybe I’ll even run a dang TQ in the left one. I have one of the “Race” TQ’s.

image.jpg
 
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I've been fooled before...
I think this is just another one of colonel Flags red herrings.... LOL.....
 
rumblefish360 said:
@yellow rose

Thank you, but I have a pair (1 maximum street effort, 1 for the track. I also have a M1 standard port/bolt pattern tunnel ram I’m willing to modify for the job later, waiting on a better day coming soon I hope. LOL!
How knows? Maybe I’ll even run a dang TQ in the left one. I have one of the “Race” TQ’s.

View attachment 1715395553
Click to expand...


That's ok. Thought I'd give you first shot before I post it in the for sale forum.
 
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