Pilot bushing help.

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Ironmike

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Pulled this pilot bushing out of a scrapped Eagle crank. I'm running the bearing type in my Scat, but would love to find this bushing type.

Haven't been able to find anything but bearing type for aftermarket cranks. Anyone know where I could find one of these?

Yeah, it was a ***** to get out.
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You mean just the metal insert?
I wouldn’t have thought that hard to find. Ehhh, sometimes you miss the rock it is under. Someone here will know.
 
Someone else was looking for one a while back. I don't know if it was ever found.
You could buy a roller, push the bearing out, and press a bushing in, no?
 
That appears to be a pilot bearing with a pilot bushing pressed into it. Very poor decision on someone's part.
 
That is SKF B287 bushing. Rock auto used to have them. Just an FYI. I’m almost positive it’s been superceeded by the bearing type.
 
In the future, if you must remove one........

Hydraulic pressure.

Fill the center hole with a thick fluid like wheel bearing grease.

Then insert a solid shaft like a steel clutch alignment tool & tap it with a brass hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the bushing out if done properly.
 
Mopar92 said:
That is SKF B287 bushing. Rock auto used to have them. Just an FYI. I’m almost positive it’s been superceeded by the bearing type.
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No longer stocked. Damn, it looks like SKF quit making them.

I really don't like a needle bearing for this application. I'm going to try a deeper search and maybe find one on somebodies shelf somewhere....

Appreciate the help, guys.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
In the future, if you must remove one........

Hydraulic pressure.

Fill the center hole with a thick fluid like wheel bearing grease.

Then insert a solid shaft like a steel clutch alignment tool & tap it with a brass hammer.

The hydraulic pressure will force the bushing out if done properly.
Click to expand...
Oh I've used that trick before. It usually works well, but this one was really stuck. Probably was a couple thousands too big in the first place and someone just beat it in.
 
Ironmike said:
No longer stocked. Damn, it looks like SKF quit making them.

I really don't like a needle bearing for this application. I'm going to try a deeper search and maybe find one on somebodies shelf somewhere....

Appreciate the help, guys.
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Ebay. I found a buddy an obsolete throw out bearing for a Saab there. Reasonable too.
 
Ironmike said:
No longer stocked. Damn, it looks like SKF quit making them.

I really don't like a needle bearing for this application. I'm going to try a deeper search and maybe find one on somebodies shelf somewhere....

Appreciate the help, guys.
Click to expand...
Just curious why not use the needle bearing? Had one in a Dakota for 230,000 Miles.
 
Ironmike said:
Pulled this pilot bushing out of a scrapped Eagle crank. I'm running the bearing type in my Scat, but would love to find this bushing type.

Haven't been able to find anything but bearing type for aftermarket cranks. Anyone know where I could find one of these?

Yeah, it was a ***** to get out.View attachment 1715132185 View attachment 1715132186
Click to expand...


I just removed an outer bushing like that from my crank. I drilled two holes on either side and threaded in a pair of bolts to pop it out. There is nothing to grab on to otherwise. It is made of a soft steel or something, and that made it easy to tell when I got to the crank(which the bit didn't even scratch).

My machinist had popped out the roller bearing that goes with it, and thought that was an end to it. The needle bearings insert has nearly the same outside diameter as the stock Mopar solid bushing.

In your case, It looks like someone removed the roller bearing insert and then pounded a stock style bushing in its place.

The assembly is available off the shelf at nearly every auto parts store for a 90's Dakota and several other Mopars for around $20.
 
You don't want to run the needle bearing?

Any particular reason?
 
I've heard that the needle bearing type can fail and mess up your input shaft. Among other things.
I've been running one for 2 summers now, no issues.....but I guess I'm just old school. Don't like needle bearings.
 
Just don't like needle bearings in certain places......like around my input shaft or rocker arms. I've seen too many catastrophic failures that didn't need to happen.

I have been running the needle bearing type for 2 summers now, without issue. If I can find one of those bushing type made by SKF, I will change it in a heartbeet.
 
Mopar machinist put one in my 340. $20 installed. Doesn' appear to be needle bearing(hope not)
#PB286HD

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When I converted my 340 from auto to manual I measured the pilot hole in my crank and it didn't measure up to any available pilot bushing outer diameters, so I used the plug with the needle bearing that fits in the torque converter register hole in the crank instead.

Last winter I decided to go back to the automatic for the HOTROD Power Tour and when I pulled the four speed out, the needle bearing/plug just fell out of the crank!

I got a larger oilite bushing and had it milled down to fit my strangely sized pilot hole.

No more needle bearing plug for me.
 
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I believe the bushing is a bit more tolerant to alignment mismatch and input shaft wear. The closer the trans input shaft centerline to the crank centerline, the better for bearing, bushing, and input shaft.
 
Daves69 said:
I believe the bushing is a bit more tolerant to alignment mismatch and input shaft wear. The closer the trans input shaft centerline to the crank centerline, the better for bearing, bushing, and input shaft.
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Like most of the clutch components, it only wears while the clutch is disengaged and the motor running. Keep your damm foot of the clutch pedal while driving and don't slip the clutch any more than absolutely necessary.
 
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