Pivot shaft issues and questions

[Ozyduster]

Just about to install the pivot shafts into the rubber bushes and then the lca. I am using rubber bushes hence the original style shape pins.
I test fitted the pivot shafts into the K frame, lucky i did as my left side new shaft is tight and the original shaft is slightly loose.
However on right side the new shaft is too tight but the original one fits fine. When i say too tight i would have to beat the hell out of the shaft to get the last quarter inch in.
-How tight should the pivot shafts be in the k frame? I can push the pin in by hand then last ten mm or so just tap in with rubber mallet and sits tight in the k frame. I have to tap back out with rubber mallet.
-Both pins are tight in the tube at the nut end of the shaft

-I have measured my new pins and the shaft near the base is a hair thicker than the originals, i have read qua1s are also thicker than the originals as well.

Anyone see any issues with re using the old shaft in the right side of k frame?

Also when installing shaft into the k frame should i coat with anything?

 

[Ozyduster]

@72bluNblu any thoughts on the above as i know you are the suspension guru

 

[junkyardhero]

i personally wouldn't have a problem running the old pin as long as the fit up was satisfactory.

you could always try and dress down the new pin with a strip of fine paper, but that may be an exercise in futility.

 

[cudamark]

If it's a trailer queen or in an area with no rust problems, I would worry about coating the pin. Otherwise, a thin coat of grease or NevrSieze where it would contact the K-member is what I would use.

 

[72bluNblu]

Just about to install the pivot shafts into the rubber bushes and then the lca. I am using rubber bushes hence the original style shape pins.
I test fitted the pivot shafts into the K frame, lucky i did as my left side new shaft is tight and the original shaft is slightly loose.
However on right side the new shaft is too tight but the original one fits fine. When i say too tight i would have to beat the hell out of the shaft to get the last quarter inch in.
-How tight should the pivot shafts be in the k frame? I can push the pin in by hand then last ten mm or so just tap in with rubber mallet and sits tight in the k frame. I have to tap back out with rubber mallet.
-Both pins are tight in the tube at the nut end of the shaft

-I have measured my new pins and the shaft near the base is a hair thicker than the originals, i have read qua1s are also thicker than the originals as well.

Anyone see any issues with re using the old shaft in the right side of k frame?

Also when installing shaft into the k frame should i coat with anything?

View attachment 1716501561

The pins should slide in, they're not a press fit or anything and the torque on the pivot nut should be enough to hold them in place as long as they're not dramatically loose in the pivot tubes. They shouldn't flop around, but yeah, they're not a press fit either.

You shouldn't have any issues using one new pin and one old one if that's the best fit you can get in the pivot tubes. As long as the bushings fit tightly on both pins you should be good to go. You could also try dressing down a new pin, but if the fit is that tight it might actually need machining.

A light coat of grease on the pins is all you need, they don't move so it's just for keeping the pin and pivot tube from rusting or seizing up. The light coat of grease will just make removing the pins easier in the future.

 

[mbaird]

Just about to install the pivot shafts into the rubber bushes and then the lca. I am using rubber bushes hence the original style shape pins.
I test fitted the pivot shafts into the K frame, lucky i did as my left side new shaft is tight and the original shaft is slightly loose.
However on right side the new shaft is too tight but the original one fits fine. When i say too tight i would have to beat the hell out of the shaft to get the last quarter inch in.
-How tight should the pivot shafts be in the k frame? I can push the pin in by hand then last ten mm or so just tap in with rubber mallet and sits tight in the k frame. I have to tap back out with rubber mallet.
-Both pins are tight in the tube at the nut end of the shaft

-I have measured my new pins and the shaft near the base is a hair thicker than the originals, i have read qua1s are also thicker than the originals as well.

Anyone see any issues with re using the old shaft in the right side of k frame?

Also when installing shaft into the k frame should i coat with anything?

View attachment 1716501561

The outside 2 still have the inner sleeve on them . If those are the ones that you are have a hard time getting the bushing on that would be the reason .

The pins should slide in, they're not a press fit or anything and the torque on the pivot nut should be enough to hold them in place as long as they're not dramatically loose in the pivot tubes. They shouldn't flop around, but yeah, they're not a press fit either.

You shouldn't have any issues using one new pin and one old one if that's the best fit you can get in the pivot tubes. As long as the bushings fit tightly on both pins you should be good to go. You could also try dressing down a new pin, but if the fit is that tight it might actually need machining.

A light coat of grease on the pins is all you need, they don't move so it's just for keeping the pin and pivot tube from rusting or seizing up. The light coat of grease will just make removing the pins easier in the future.

I have had to press the bushings ( with inner sleeves ) on every time I have replaced them . Or are you referring to sliding a bare bushing onto the inner sleeves?

 

[72bluNblu]

The outside 2 still have the inner sleeve on them . If those are the ones that you are have a hard time getting the bushing on that would be the reason .




I have had to press the bushings ( with inner sleeves ) on every time I have replaced them . Or are you referring to sliding a bare bushing onto the inner sleeves?

The OP is talking about the pivot pin fit into the K frame, as was I.

I only mentioned the bushing fit because it doesn't look like he's tried the new bushings on the old pivot pins yet.

The pivot pins should slide into the K frame, the bushings need to be a press fit onto the pivot pins.

 

[Ozyduster]

The outside 2 still have the inner sleeve on them . If those are the ones that you are have a hard time getting the bushing on that would be the reason .




I have had to press the bushings ( with inner sleeves ) on every time I have replaced them . Or are you referring to sliding a bare bushing onto the inner sleeves?

In the pics the shells were still on the pins which i have removed now. My issue is the fitment into the k frame tube.

 

[Ozyduster]

The pins should slide in, they're not a press fit or anything and the torque on the pivot nut should be enough to hold them in place as long as they're not dramatically loose in the pivot tubes. They shouldn't flop around, but yeah, they're not a press fit either.

You shouldn't have any issues using one new pin and one old one if that's the best fit you can get in the pivot tubes. As long as the bushings fit tightly on both pins you should be good to go. You could also try dressing down a new pin, but if the fit is that tight it might actually need machining.

A light coat of grease on the pins is all you need, they don't move so it's just for keeping the pin and pivot tube from rusting or seizing up. The light coat of grease will just make removing the pins easier in the future.

Ok thats great i wasnt sure how tight they should be, i could run a new pin through a lathe if need be. I am running the traditional rubber bushes as thats what came in the PST front end kit. Ill just nip them up and then torque up once loaded on the ground i think its 140 from memory in the manual.
My firm feel adjustable rods didnt come with nuts would i just use a traditional nylock nut?
One of the old pins is buggered as rubbers were cooked and metal on metal see the shoulder is worn away. My car was very run down when i got it even had to fix a hole in the k frame where the strut rod had been flopping around and elongated the hole.

 

[Ozyduster]

If it's a trailer queen or in an area with no rust problems, I would worry about coating the pin. Otherwise, a thin coat of grease or NevrSieze where it would contact the K-member is what I would use.

Yea its not going to see lot of kms a year, if you seen the build its hardly going to be a daily driver haha