Planning my build. Phoenix, Az need some info and leads.

South West

  1. cactusspines

    cactusspines Member

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    Hello folks, I live in Phoenix, Az, and not sure where to post this without causing grief on the general build boards. More of a lurker but I am starting to acquire parts for building up a 5.9 Magnum (need this) based build, A500 transmission (need this, too) with an 8 3/4 rear (I already have this). I am going to put it into the 1941 Plymouth Coupe, as seen in my avatar. I am near the end of my (Non-MoPar) Model A Hot Rod Build, so I am gearing up for my next project.

    Is there a good place to get a good buildable 5.9 Magnum in town? I had a lead on one for $300, but it got sold before I could get to the guy's shop. Also, any recommendations for machine shops in town that are MoPar specific? I have a pair of bare EQ318 heads that I am considering using. I am thinking of driving out to IMM Engines in Indio (to save on shipping and get an excuse to visit Joshua Tree, maybe get a Date Shake at Hadley's) have them build them up to their spec, but I want to have the rest of my machining done in town. I am also considering the TrickFlow 190's, as this is not a budget build by any means.

    The car is going to be built for the street only, run on pump gas, but I want to build it as naturally aspirated as I can get without losing reliability. This will be my get in and go to another state for shows as well as fully air conditioned and comfortable as I can make this pre-war Chrysler product. I am also going to use an Art Morrison front IFS GT sport clip, triangulated 4 bar rear and use coil overs on all four corners with disc brakes all around as well. The goal of the build is to be a good road going GT type of car. I want to be able to surprise some of the more modern cars when going up the mountain and curvy roads to Flagstaff, Sedona, Payson, Prescott, Jerome etc...

    I am reading up and trying to separate the race specific engine build information from good, streetable builds that are performance tilted and don't want to ask a question that has been answered a hundred times before.

    So far the parts I have are bare eq318 heads and two new intakes a Edelbrock AirGap and a Weiand Stealth. I have been given advice from a friend who is into Pontiacs (vintage) trying to steer me away from the Edelebrock, unless I stroke it to a 408 due to the power band vs. the street use I want to get out of it. He is under the impression that the AirGap would not be a good fit for the street for what I am looking to do, but I am willing to hear real world experience. I don't want to build a stroker unless it is the only option based on the build I am looking to do with the parts I have. I am also leaning towards using the Holley Sniper EFI vs. Carbeuration.

    If there is a better place to ask, please let me know. I just posted it here due to it being a Southwest focused part of the forum. It is hot in Phoenix, so I have to consider building something that won't blow up/overheat on the roads in the middle of summer, as you folks are well aware with older cars.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2021
  2. 64DartGTinAZ

    64DartGTinAZ FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I would have pointed you to Dennis Maurer's shop, but it looks like he decided not to winter in AZ anymore...he's in Colorado full time now.
    If you find somebody good, be sure to let us know!
     
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    • famous bob

      famous bob mopar misfit

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      41 WILL BE KICK a$$ , DO A BILD THREAD ON IT FROM START TO FINISH .
       
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      • Brooks James

        Brooks James Dustoff

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        If I’m not mistaken there are very limited intakes for magnum heads. The la intakes won’t fit on magnum heads. I’m using a professional products air gap on my 360 mag which is drilled for both la and magnum.
        As far as durability and stoutness the mag has advantages over la:
        9 to 1 compression ratio
        Metric rings
        The heads are very good out of the box
        They have a factory roller camshaft, however the camshaft lift is limited and the valve springs are limited to 5000 rpm, ask me how I know
        Hypereutetic pistons
        Also la heads will not work on a magnum block unless you have an early block that has oil passages for both heads or you drill it out. Almost forgot , mags have excellent pan and valve cover thick rubber gasket set up.
        I would suggest a complete magnum set up to take advantages of the serpentine set up, put a cam and intake in/on it when you rebuild it. Because it the fuel injection and metric rings many mags have been opened up and discovered to still the factory hone marks in the cylinders, which you can use std bore pistons instead of boring it out.
        A stock 360 mag with headers a good carb will deliver 310 hp. Because the stock cam is so small a decent cam could bump it to 340-350 hp. I have seen a few times a stock complete running mag for less than 500.
        I know that some will disagree but for durability and longevity the mag is the best factory non hi perf small block mamopar built.
         
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        • Rockerdude

          Rockerdude Rock n' Roll and A-bodies FABO Gold Member

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          I personally used Kelly's Machine here locally in Phx due to their good reviews online. No issues so far, very reasonable price wise. I just finished a .030 over 5.9 Magnum for my 65 Dart Convertible, but I'm running a manual trans.

          Magnum specific intakes are sorta tough to find for a decent price, depending on what you want to do for the front belt drive on the engine. I was able to find an old Mopar M1 dual plane with the correct thermostat placement/size to use the stock serpentine setup with A/C if I decide to use that later. If you don't mind switching to V belts, you can just use the old LA 318/360 timing cover/pullies/brackets (make sure you block off the fuel pump hole, or get the cam extension to use a mechanical fuel pump). This will allow you to use one of those cheap-ish air-gap intakes with both bolt patterns/LA style thermostat. Or you could have the heads drilled for the LA intake pattern, and just use an LA intake.

          PS, I also love the 89A. Going to be spending plenty of time up there when my convertible is driveable.
           
          Last edited: Apr 19, 2021
        • cactusspines

          cactusspines Member

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          I definitely have read up on the Magnum vs LA style intake bolts, which is why I went with a pair of eq318 heads, drilled for LA intakes. It is also why I am interested in the Trick Flow 190s, as they can be used on either type of block, as long as you kit it out with the correct oiling parts in the valvetrain for the application. So both of my intakes are LA style, on purpose. I appreciate the information all the same.

          I know of Kelly's machine, as they did the machining on my 1963 Buick 401 Nailhead I built for my Model A project. I was happy with their work and am considering them or Morrison Machine as well in town. I understand Mauer left, which is why I was hoping there was a guy like him in town or like IMM Engines that know the Chrysler Small Block specifically. There are always tricks these brand specific machine shops know, so I was looking for any gotchas they could point out that I might overlook when building for my application.

          As for posting the build, I might do that in the build section, again, I don't want to ruffle anyone's feathers on this site since it isn't an A body. Though, I am building this as I would an A Body, going as far as to attempt to get it as close to a 50/50 ratio of weight distribution front to rear by using scales during the mockup and fabrication work.
           
        • go-fish

          go-fish Well-Known Member

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          Sounds like you have a very good grasp on the parts involved. A magnum block is a great choice do to the roller cam. The TF heads would be great but if you went that route coupled with the Sniper EFI you should look into their intake (if available). The Air-Gap intake is great, especially for carbureted engines but with EFI you can use a single plane and it will still be streetable at the lower rpm range. There is debate on the EFI forums about whether and when you can use a single plane versus dual plane and from what I've seen is a single plane and EFI is fine. Typically a sigle plane makes higher horsepower but at a cost to the lower rpm range. Dual planes are typically great for lower to mid RPM cruising and towing. With the better atomization of injectors you can use a single plane and have increased efficiency at lower RPM ranges. If you are using TF heads and Sniper look at their intake or a Super Victor. BTW, your Buick friend may not have the best info on Edelbrock intakes. If you were going carb and even EFI the Air Gap is a great intake for your application. If you stay with Mag heads and don't mind the use of a chinese part the Speedmaster Air Gap style intake (copy of Edelbrock) has a dual LA/Mag pattern.
          I have an engine at IMM. Bryan is very knowledgable on all matters Small Block Mopar. If anything I would give him a call and and run your goals by him. He doesn't charge any money to talk on the phone but have your questions lined up. He's a busy guy.
          I am interested in your build. Sounds like something I would want to build.
           
        • cactusspines

          cactusspines Member

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          Thanks for the reply. I am now leaning back towards Carb with the Air Gap. Still up in the air regarding the EQ heads or TF heads, I still have until next year before I go nuts on putting money in this.

          I appreciate all the advice thus far.
           
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