Please help I’m Stuck It’s been 5 months

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RamCharger TEXAS

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Here's part one



Part two





Having trouble getting my 73 Duster to start. Could you help?

1. A230 = 3 Speed Manual transmission

2. Slant 6 225

3. It's hooked up to a ignition starter button for push start.

4. Tried a new Neutral/Backup Switch cleaned the hole area it came from on the transmission

5. New starter installed.

6. New Standard Motor Products US88 Ignition Switch installed

7. New Standard Motor Products RU12T Ignition Coil Resistor installed

8. New Standard Motor Products LX101T Ignition Module Control Unit installed

9. Clean air filter

10. I can turn the key on and push the push button start I have hood up to the starter and it will crank after a few cranks but only with starter fluid.

11. I checked a line looking thing I see next to the

Neutral/Backup Switch it's a metal line connected to the mail 3 speed tranny but that's loose not sure if I need to adjust something in there.

12. My floor gears are normal I believe.

13. The car drives but hard shifts with noise coming out of first gear but after that gear onward it shifts fine.

15. The car is in neutral when I try to start it.
I'm sure the slave linkage button on the top of the steering column works good it unlocks the key so I can hold the key down in the starting position while pushing the start button then the Duster Starts.

I don't know what else to do to just get this to start every time on the first try. What the heck is going on with this car what can I do guys?

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Sorry, but I'm a bit confused.
When you say "it cranks a few times with starter fluid"?
Do you mean it rumbles or runs?
Cranking refers to the engine turning. Running is the engine running after cranking.
Are you getting spark at the plugs while cranking?
 
Use a volt meter to see if you have voltage on + coil terminal when cranking. Starting fluid will fire an engine without ignition. It fires on compression.
 
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Sorry, but I'm a bit confused.
When you say "it cranks a few times with starter fluid"?
Do you mean it rumbles or runs?
Cranking refers to the engine turning. Running is the engine running after cranking.
Are you getting spark at the plugs while cranking?

Hey sorry for the confusion it runs after cranking it 5-8 times of re-filling it with starter fluid. I'm getting spark I think. How can I check. So when I turn my key is there a reason why it doesn't make a sound or even crank without my button
 
Just for the heck of it hold the key to the start position while you are pressing the button
 
Just for the heck of it hold the key to the start position while you are pressing the button
I do that will crank it absolutely but that's still not the problem I need to get rid of the button and figure out why it's having trouble starting in the first place
 
Try jumping a wire straight from battery to coil + then try starting. If it starts pull the jumper off
 
If it starts using starter fluid then maybe its your fuel pump of fuel filter, are you getting fuel when you open the accelerator?
 
I'm still confused and I read your comments twice . You need 3 things to run : fuel , air and spark . Air is usually free unless your under water . Fuel and spark are left . Buy a test light . It's a $5.95 investment . Dtermine if you have spark to the : starter switch , each side of the ballast resistor with the key on , each side of the coil with the key on . By pass the starter relay with heavy guage cable and see if starter turns engine over . Check fuel by disconnecting the fitting @ carb and cranking engine ,put something on fuel line to catch the gas . Still no go , check firing order :153624 . Pull plugs, inspect and clean . Crank engine while plugs are out . should spin like a mutha . BE SURE THE REAR WHEELS ARE OFF THE GROUND . If you can't run engine after this repost and we'll move forward from there . sounds like you have a severe wiring issue .
 
The cylinder thing? You mean?
Yes the ignition coil. Also, you might take a solid core wire and rig a spark gap to the center of the coil to a ground. Crank the engine and see what the spark is doing. you should get good hot blue sparks when cranking, about 3/8 inch long or longer


PLEASE NOTE

I believe you are confusing us,

"Crank" means the engine rotates when the starter is engaged
"Fire" means the engine coughs, bangs, attempts to start and may remain running for a few seconds
"Fire and run" means the engine starts and runs

ALSO LOOK under the hood for the seat belt reset box. This is a small box often near the electronic ignition box, with a reset button. It was part of the seat belt system. The car will NOT crank (turn) with the key if that reset is "popped"

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Looks like you have alot of Fabo guys capable of getting you through this issue. I dont want to confuse the issue with repetition.
I'm sure you'll get it resolved.
Joe
 
If it starts using starter fluid then maybe its your fuel pump of fuel filter, are you getting fuel when you open the accelerator?
The car stays running for as long as I leave it on so it can't be a fuel filter. I cleaned the gas tank .
 
383 Scamp,
sounds like he just wants to eliminate this starter button? Remote starter type button? Dont know if the ignition cuts out after he releases this button?
 
Yes the ignition coil. Also, you might take a solid core wire and rig a spark gap to the center of the coil to a ground. Crank the engine and see what the spark is doing. you should get good hot blue sparks when cranking, about 3/8 inch long or longer


PLEASE NOTE

I believe you are confusing us,

"Crank" means the engine rotates when the starter is engaged
"Fire" means the engine coughs, bangs, attempts to start and may remain running for a few seconds
"Fire and run" means the engine starts and runs

ALSO LOOK under the hood for the seat belt reset box. This is a small box often near the electronic ignition box, with a reset button. It was part of the seat belt system. The car will NOT crank (turn) with the key if that reset is "popped"

View attachment 1715464016

Hey im sorry about the confusion. Im very new to working on old cars and cars in general I don't wanna give up though !

I'll try the spark thing and look for that box I don't think I've seen one. But I'll look. Now note I took the seatbelts out but before I took the seat belts out and tried to crank/start the car with starter fluid it still had to be cranked a few times with starter fluid to get it to run. Hope I'm using the correct jargon guys. Thank you for helping me so far I really appreciate it
 
So that looks like a spring loaded push button?
The engine runs when you are pushing it in, and stalls when you release it?
Also, how did it get there?
Was it an anti theft device?
Or was it installed because of another issue?
 
So that looks like a spring loaded push button?
The engine runs when you are pushing it in, and stalls when you release it?
Also, how did it get there?
Was it an anti theft device?
Or was it installed because of another issue?


that looks like a spring loaded push button? Yes

The engine runs when you are pushing it in, and stalls when you release it? No it just starts the car you have to turn the key off to turn the car off

Also, how did it get there? Me and my dad hooked it directly up to the starter because of the issue with the car never being able to crank period without it.

Was it an anti theft device? No
Or was it installed because of another issue?
Yes to to bypass the key.


Could it really be a fuel filter issue I'll see how much they cost because my thinking is if the starter button is doing the job of the key then the issue really must be electrical right? My dad thinks it's under the dash he's an 85 year old mechanic since he was 20 big he and me can't figure out the problem.
 
So that looks like a spring loaded push button?
The engine runs when you are pushing it in, and stalls when you release it?
Also, how did it get there?
Was it an anti theft device?
Or was it installed because of another issue?
I have the same button I bought it from O'Reilly Auto parts
 
Seems like you have a number of things going on here that you have lumped all together and along with some inaccurate wording has confused everyone; so lets try and correct this.

As I am reading your comments, it seems like you have several things going on here;

1. your starting system (meaning the devices that make the starter initiate). It sound like you have both a ignition switch (the thing you put the key into) and some type of push button. This would indicate that either the ignition switch was/is defective and someone didn't want to replace it or someone added a push button switch for some other reason. The way you fix this is first you need to figure out how it is wired, then repair that back to stock so that the ignition switch works as designed. You will need to get under the dash and look at the wiring and see what has been cut and rerouted. You need to get a wiring diagram and make sure all of the wires are going to the right place, you also need a good ignition switch. Understand that the ignition switch itself does not include a key, the key cylinder goes into the switch and activates it.

2. your engine actually running. At first you said it only ran when you fed it starting fluid then you said it "stays running as long as you leave it on".. are you saying that once it starts it stays running OR are you saying it runs as long as you are cranking it with the starter?

Look, you need to go at this in a methodical organized manner; one thing at a time. If you post some pictures of your switch/buttons etc. members here might be able to provide a little more accurate guidance. Whatever you do, if you start messing with the ignition switch and/or button DISCONNECT THE BATTERY first...
 
Sorry, you responded as I was writing my last post. So, with this new information someone installed the button because the ignition switch was defective (not all that uncommon). To fix this, you will need to replace the ignition switch and reconnect the wires that were cut to make the button work.

If the car starts and runs (no matter how you started it), then you do not have a fuel filter problem.
 
To change your ignition switch you will have to take apart the steering column to get to it. I am not 100% sure with a 73 A body but I am pretty sure the switch comes with the wires that run down through it and have a connector on the end that then plugs into the main harness.

So to replace the switch what you have to do is;

1. remove the steering wheel
2. remove the key cylinder
3. remove the screws holding the switch
4. pull the switch out of the steering column (you can basically cut the wires and pull the ignition switch out the top and the wires out the bottom
5. install the new switch (this is where the fun begins, you have to fish the connector down through the column which can be a pain, some people have cut the wires above the connector and then reconnected them after the wires are routed through the column but this really is not a great way to do it, however if you can solder and heat shrink it can be done)
6. reinstall the key cylinder

This is the reason that there is a push button, when the switch went out, someone put the button in bc changing the switch is a pain in the butt
 
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