[FOR SALE] Plug and play - Headlight Relay Kits

Mopar Exterior Parts For Sale

  1. crackedback

    crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Headlight relay kits that are essentially plug and play.

    There is a substantial increase in voltage at the headlight, increasing light output performance. Light output degrades exponentially with voltage input reductions. These kits also take headlight amp loads off the fragile bulkhead connector, headlight switch and amp gauge. The only headlight load flowing through the bulkhead is a minimal current required to trigger relays.

    The kit includes:
    Bosch/Tyco relays (no 1$ chinese relays)
    Ceramic headlamp sockets
    Fuses/fuse holders
    12ga wire from alt to relays
    12 or 14 gauge power wire from relays to headlight wiring (no 16-18 gauge wire like factory, except 16ga to trigger relays)
    All terminals for hook up to a std 1/4 alt stud and ground locations
    Wiring would follow normal wiring harness paths and be covered with black shrink tube for most of the run lengths.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    NO CUTTING OF YOUR CURRENT WIRING HARNESS REQUIRED!

    Headlight Relay Kit #1.jpg


    Road lamp relay kit is not included in the standard 2 and 4 headlight kits. There is an additional charge for a road lamp relay kit.

    The kits I've built have relays mounted on the yoke (front or rear), under the battery tray and inner fender uprights.

    Picture of the light output difference from a 71 Cuda. Both pictures are on low beam setting, Left - before, Right - after installation.

    Headlight Relay Kit #2.jpg


    Another benefit that most users see are an improvement in dash light and marker light/turn signal brightness.

    Some other things to consider.
    Unless you buy wire in bulk, you'll have about $40+ before tax in different colored wire packages from a local auto store.

    All kits I build are tested prior to shipping.

    Kits for a 2 headlight vehicles are $135 + shipping.

    Most 4 headlight vehicles are $160 + shipping.

    The assembled kits fit nicely in a USPS flat rate box, shipping in the US would be in the $10-15 range. International shipping is available. Kits have been shipped to Canada, Spain, Italy, Germany, Australia, New Zealand and a few other countries. Most all shipping is done via US Postal Service unless other service is requested.

    Kits with all products and wire required to build one yourself are $85 for a 2 headlight and $100 for a 4 headlight + shipping.

    If you would like some other iteration of a kit, parts only, please PM me.

    All items are shipped from Indio, CA

    Thanks to all my customers, I appreciate your patronage!
     
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    • 74valiant

      74valiant Well-Known Member

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      niiice... ill definately have to think about doing this..thanks for the effort to offer this stuff up!
       
    • Dfnsmn34

      Dfnsmn34 Margarita Mike

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      Great Idea...I have the electronic and electrical background to do this myself. (and I have) But I would buy this if I didn't have the knowledge!

      Will you be giving a schematic too with the kit? Might be nice to break down the wiring colors...but that could be tough getting "all" the mopar colors for the headlamps!

      Nice job Cracked!!!!

      BTW...this is probably the BEST upgrade ANYONE could do to their cars!!!!

      FYI...Only thing I did different was I used the wire wrap tape so it looked factory installed. Just a thought?
       
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      • 72Dodge

        72Dodge Well-Known Member

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        Yes, to follow up dfnsmn34... so if I received this, how would I know how to install it? I see you say essentially plug n play, but how would I know where to attach it to, and maybe I can't see well in the photo, but it looks like some of the ends are just wire (no connectors)? Is it more obvious to hook it up than it looks in that pic? I'm not afraid I couldn't do it, just not sure I'd know even what to do.
         
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        • Mr.FT

          Mr.FT FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Looks like a great winter project for the Demon, will it come with a schematic? Do I have to let you know ahead of time which location I choose for the relay mounting? or will it work on any of the three locations you mention.
           
        • crackedback

          crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Kit will come with instructions and a wiring diagram/schematic.

          The wires will be terminated in the kits. The pic was representative of what it looks like.

          The 5 sets of wires exiting the relay blocks are really hard to confuse. You have 2 sets (short/long) with ceramic headlight plugs, 1 set of main power with fuses, relay trigger with a specific end and a ground wire set for the relays. They are all plugged into the relay block, you don't have to plug anything into the block.
          -------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Disconnect battery, find spot to mount relay block, drill holes and mount

          Put a little dielectric grease on the terminals/connectors
          Disconnect the old wires at the headlight and reattach the new ceramic plugs. I can't get to the original headlight connectors, hands too big, so you may likely have to remove the headlights to get at the plugs. Short set to drivers side, long set to pass side. Attach grounds from each bundle.

          Attach power leads to alternator battery output stud.

          Plug relay trigger into the original dr side headlight connector

          Attach ground wire for relays

          That's about it




          Yes on a schematic.

          It's best to tell me where you would like to mount them. That way there isn't a bunch of wire wound up somewhere because it was too long, or worse too short. I try to tailor it to each location. Best to send a pic where you want to put them

          I also need to know if the alternator is in stock location and whether it's a V8 or slanty. Slanties are really down low


          If it took more than 2 hours to install this, I'd be surprised.

          A pic of how I ship it. I used a different HL connector end on this one. Each main wire set is in a baggie and will be labeled with a tie strap label as well.

          [​IMG]

          I think I'm putting this one on my car, I use what I build...
           
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          • crackedback

            crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Thanks for the compliment.
            It's amazing the difference in headlights not to mention, secondary benefit of taking the load off our old bulkhead connectors.

            If a buyer wanted to wrap it in wire tape for a more classic/original look, or come sans the shrink tube, they could do that. I put shrink tube on it for abrasion protection. Another layer of protection couldn't hurt.
             
          • airwoofer

            airwoofer Drivetrain limit explorer

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            High and low beams? That is exactly what I want for my fish and probably for my drag Demon. The ONLY way to power the 55/100 watt Hella lights.

            http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-Visio...Parts_Accessories&hash=item416f526cfd&vxp=mtr

            What would be cool would be to use a pair that also have the running light bulb separate and put a blue bulb in there for that old school blue colored headlight look at night at the track.
             
          • crackedback

            crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Airwoofer, the kit has a relay for high and low beams. Totally separate power circuits for each, redundant. This way if one circuit fails, you can at least switch to the other circuit and get stopped to check fuse, etc. Hopefully not leave you stranded.

            Check those lamps as 55 amps is a LOT, sure it's not watts?
             
          • airwoofer

            airwoofer Drivetrain limit explorer

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            Amps, watts, volts... what's the difference? I will probably get a kit for the Demon. It does not have wire #1 and I will need to wire the headlights somehow.
             
          • Sedanman

            Sedanman 67-9 Valiant specialist FABO Gold Member

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            Will you still be able to control high & low beam from the foot switch & turn on from the dash switch?
             
          • crackedback

            crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            The controls inside the car continue to determine which circuit is on. If the high/low beam selector is in low beam, then low beam will be on, high beam selected, then high beam will be on.
             
          • 19 Again..

            19 Again.. Well-Known Member

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            Those HELLA lights would be 60/55watts. Could a person run the headlights with the Led inside the bulbs?? If so I will wait till after the holidays to get back to you..

            19..
             
          • 6pk2goDemon

            6pk2goDemon Mopar Mod Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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            This is exactly what I need for my Demon 8-)

            PM coming your way CB
             
          • Dfnsmn34

            Dfnsmn34 Margarita Mike

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            Seriously guys...if "cracked" is gonna makes these custom to your set up...you don't know how fortune you are!!! Plus the plug and play connectors are a true bonus.

            NO cutting into your harness and the load factor on your harness (DROPPED) to the ampere meter in your dash will make the D-C gauge that much more reliable.

            If all your connections are clean, tight and use dielectric you could go to the moon with your MOPAR!!!!

            aloha!!!
             
          • 6pk2goDemon

            6pk2goDemon Mopar Mod Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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            I'm working on getting pics for mounting ideas now. Will post them here shortly........
             
          • 6pk2goDemon

            6pk2goDemon Mopar Mod Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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            From your previous PM, it sounds like the factory holes in the radiator yoke may be different on a 72. Here are a couple pics........

            I'm thinking about an underside battery tray mount?
             

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          • 67dartgtgo

            67dartgtgo FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Crackedback...I've upgraded my bulkhead wiring and gotten rid of that pesky amp meter...replaced with volt meter of coarse...but love the relay kit. Will try to take pics and get a pm off to you this weekend.
            Have seen these from MADD but never bitten.
            Bright headlights and no wiring compromise, outstanding.
             
          • crackedback

            crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Lots of items missing from the madd kit to do your car. To do a Mopar with hi and low circuits, you'd need to buy 2 relay kits = $50. Looks like it uses 18awg wire. That wire size seems to be a sideways move instead of using larger gauge wire (less voltage drop).

            I notice there is no mention of relay brand. I think this is VERY important. I can buy cheap relays for under $2 each. I choose to buy/sell ONLY Tyco/Bosch because they have consistently been the best for many years. I'd rather sell a better, safer product.

            Even with a bulkhead upgrade, this is one of the best electrical upgrades you can make. My kits get the 40+ year old 18AWG wire that has significant voltage drop out of actually carrying headlight load. Plus, with my kit you don't have to cut one wire on an A body! No mangled, chopped up front harness and the current factory harness remains in place. :thumblef:

            Look forward to the PM.
             
          • crackedback

            crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            6pk2go,

            You have lots of choices for relay mounting. Under the tray sounds like the best location.

            Yes, the yoke is slightly different than the 70-71 car I was using as a guide.
             
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            • 72Dodge

              72Dodge Well-Known Member

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              Glad I waited for this info, as the car I want this for is a '72 also. Under battery tray sounds great for mine too. I'll get all info to you shortly to order mine.

              Are there any particular headlights you recommend for this? I was looking at the Sylvania H6024ST SilverStar 65-Watt High Performance Halogens. They're about $19 each on amazon.
               
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              • crackedback

                crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                • mopowers

                  mopowers Well-Known Member

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                  So does this kit come with one relay for the low beams and one relay for the high beams? Or are there 4 total?

                  Also, what is the purpose of the new headlamp sockets? Will the old ones not work???

                  Lastly, I see it's pulling power from the alt. Is there one dedicated wire for each relay? So now you've got three terminals attaching to the alt power stud? Would it be a shorter rout to pull power from the starter relay and not have to go up and around the firewall? Or is this a bad idea???

                  I've never done this swap before in case you couldn't tell. :laughing:
                   
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                  • crackedback

                    crackedback FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    No problem on the questions!
                     
                  • mopowers

                    mopowers Well-Known Member

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                    I plan on bypassing the Ammeter as well as adding these relays. Just trying to figure out the best way of doing both at the same time.

                    So, if I bypass the ammeter per the diagram below, then pull power for your headlamp relays from the starter relay lug (which comes directly from the battery), will the fusible links impact the headlamps?

                    [​IMG]
                     
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