ValerianMagnum
the little car that could
Bought a kit , for a mopar Electrical ignition swap , missing 2 wires for the voltage regulator , so im kinda confused , any videos or clear documentation for this swap ? * sorry for the bad quality pics
Points to Electric Ignition Infos / how-to
- Thread starter ValerianMagnum
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The regulator is a bonus but has nothing to do with the electronic Ignition.
This first FAMOUS diagram IS WRONG. The YELLOW wire labeled "start" coming off the bottom of the ballast IS WRONG. That terminal, instead, needs connected to the IGN2 (usually brown) off the ign switch the ballast bypass circuit.
IF YOU LEAVE THE ORIGINAL BALLAST WIRING INTACT and then branch INTO it the system will automatically be correct. Branch into the KEY side of the ballast, which is full switched 12V coming from the ignition switch, and use that point to power the blue wire on the VR, and to run the power wire over to the ECU box. Leave the original coil+ connected to the key.
Connect the new coil - wire comeing from the ecu to the coil neg in place of the old distributor points wire. Make SURE the ECU is grounded.
The diagram below is better
In this diagram the top of the ballast is the power coming from the key. It powers the "top" of the ballast, branches off to the power wire to the ECU, and feeds the VR and one terminal of the VR field. YOU NEED a 70 and later model alternator known as "isolated field" (two insulated field terminals) to do this conversion.
For the new VR you can use part of your original wiring. Your old VR has a blue and a green, the blue is switched ignition, and that connects to the new VR blue. The old green hooks to the new VR green. All you need to do is ADD ONE NEW WIRE, that is, switched 12V at the top end of the ballast, and run that over to the remaining field terminal of the alternator.
MAKE CERTAIN, ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the VR and the ignition box are GROUNDED.
IF YOU LEAVE THE ORIGINAL BALLAST WIRING INTACT and then branch INTO it the system will automatically be correct. Branch into the KEY side of the ballast, which is full switched 12V coming from the ignition switch, and use that point to power the blue wire on the VR, and to run the power wire over to the ECU box. Leave the original coil+ connected to the key.
Connect the new coil - wire comeing from the ecu to the coil neg in place of the old distributor points wire. Make SURE the ECU is grounded.
The diagram below is better
In this diagram the top of the ballast is the power coming from the key. It powers the "top" of the ballast, branches off to the power wire to the ECU, and feeds the VR and one terminal of the VR field. YOU NEED a 70 and later model alternator known as "isolated field" (two insulated field terminals) to do this conversion.
For the new VR you can use part of your original wiring. Your old VR has a blue and a green, the blue is switched ignition, and that connects to the new VR blue. The old green hooks to the new VR green. All you need to do is ADD ONE NEW WIRE, that is, switched 12V at the top end of the ballast, and run that over to the remaining field terminal of the alternator.
MAKE CERTAIN, ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the VR and the ignition box are GROUNDED.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Who runs the old mech regulator with the factory electronic ignition?
I do.
Back in the day, when Mopar began offering conversion systems, they made it clear you are supposed to run an electronic regulator. I have never received a good answer as to why. I've seen a few Mopars running electronic ignition conversions with early regulators with no evident ill effects
I wondered also why the electronic reg is needed. My guess is that it reduces the amplitude [ size ] of voltage changes in the charging system, maintaining a more stable voltage; electronics do not like voltage spikes.
This is my theory that may be right or wrong. Back then the old single field cars didn’t charge worth a **** at idle especially if the headlights and or heater were on. I’ve seen a few failed on those cars but only at night as to my thinking there wasn’t enough voltage to keep the electronic ignition happy. Mainly the ecu. I have changed every car of mine and countless others to the dual field alternator. Simply by removing the wires off the old regulator and connecting them together. Then I mount the 70 up regulator on the inner fender across from the alternator. I run one wire to the extra field and the other to the alternator positive stud. Never a problem in 45 years of doing it that way. Kim
Muad'Dib15
Well-Known Member
I have a 12 yo pertronix ignitor 2 dizzy, a square back alt, and an original style VR. Once I got the wiring sorted out, I've never had a problem with the charging or ignition other than dim headlights at an idle.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
That's a 70 up reg, that's probably what ysar(s) of vehicle it was removed from. Could be OEM style for whatever year elec ign started.
I'm not sure this is it. For some reason it didn't post or went away
This may be it or similar. If you have a 2 pin ballast, just ignore everything vertically on the left side of the ballast.
Everything blue is IGN1 "ignition run" or switched 12V in the run position of the key. The brown is the bypass circuit, IGN2, and is hot only in "start" just like the yellow "start" circuit.
The coil side of the ballast circuit works exactly like and is wired exactly like a breaker points set up.
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