That's because it's hard to gauge a 100th gained or lost in ET on a sorted car.

 

I’m sure there would be a gain but as mentioned above, gain vs cost may not be effective. Also, just how good is the manifold in question? That may be something there?

 

[QUOTE foot speed controller or router speed controller in pictures.[/QUOTE] is the top one a harbor freight item?

 

is the top one a harbor freight item?[/QUOTE]


This is all harbor freight stuff. The picture of my stuff is from eBay.

 

As referenced in the port matching thread here, engine masters did a back-to-back-to- back test of three intakes, super Victors on a 550hp small Chevy. Stone stock ootb, port matched, and Wilson ported.
Ootb 546hp
Port matched 554hp
Wilson ported 564hp.
Ootb manifold was $375, Wilson was $1000, so $625 for 18hp.
For a milder motor I would expect milder gains.
Edit: forgot to mention, ALL gains were above 5300-5400. Most gain (more than at peak) was at 7000.
2nd edit: tried a $100 tapered 1 1/2 spacer on the Wilson, made another six hp.

 

All part of the baby steps of getting more out of a combo. Then hence the phrase, speed costs, how fast do you want to go?

I see very little gains on a plane ol’street engine that people just bolt together. Worthwhile? Per individual I guess. While the gains on a serious engine will be more, it is getting pricey to get there.

 

Who did you call? For 900 bucks you should get 20-30 hp. There isn’t an out of the box intake that doesn’t need work. Some more than others, and the Victor W2 needs work.

 

15hp will change ET, so that's the first lie.

 

What is your opinion of the W2 Strip Dominator?

 

Nothing wrong with them. I have a Victor and a SD in the shop. They both take some work. I haven’t seen any intake manifold that won’t improve by a pretty good margin when ported. Just so there is no confusion, I’m talking about cast manifolds. A sheet metal intake shouldn’t need any work. If it does, send it back.

 

Probably the best intake I’ve ever seen out of the box was a B1 big block intake. I don’t think I had over an hour spent on it.

 

I lost my butt on a set of BB Edelbrock knock off heads. The heads weren’t too bad, but the Edelbrock intake was terrible. I forget the part number.

I told the guy 400 bucks to clean the intake up, but I had 800 in it to get it where it should have been. Had so much core shift I almost had to weld it, and the runners were reverse tapered.

I no longer quote porting prices on manifolds I haven’t worked on before or have at least looked at. I look at it first.

 

I’m sorry I guess I was wrong. I went back and looked at my B1 pictures and I did have more than an hour in it. Not a crazy amount of time though for an intake that’s flows over 400cfm bolted on a set of heads.

 

Porting and intake properly is actually MORE work than porting 8 intake ports and I agree--A big number might show up on the dyno but ET won't really change. Youre intake is not really undersized for your cubes IMO--Just clean it up, radius any real sharp stuff and bolt it back on. Go to Princess Auto and grab a die grinder AIR/Electric that you like and go to town. I hate porting intakes and guys around here charge $1200+. J.Rob

 

I remember this topic bringing up whether some were flowing the intake 'flange down/backwards' or pushing through it. As in regards to the Intake by itself.

I've done that before, Its not the correct way though. You can see 340's cfm backwards from a vic 340 ootb ...then see it's really choking it to 245cfm bolted on a 270+cfm port.
Gasket match, blend it to the runner, blend the flange/plenum...and 'leave the rest if you can't test'

 

The above ,That's not a method that makes it all perfect and equal, not saying it is...just once you start playing with the runner walls/dividers effecting their lengths..its anywhere then. It becomes a reengineering/redesign.