Possible oiling concerns

Ironracer

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Shit. I'd snatch that bad boy out, put it on the anvil flat of a vise and beat it back straight with a hammer. And no, I ain't kiddin.
An ol Mopar Racer taught me to rollem, beat em, and check em on a mirror, the mirror being flatter than the garage floor
 

my68barracuda

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I’ll give that a shot as soon as I get home. Thanks! I’ll keep you posted
If you do remove the existing rocker arm shaft, take the time to get a good look to see what direction the shafts oil holes face. That cylinder head does not have a lot of sludge build up, so it is possible that someone has previously had it apart and did not orientate the shaft correctly.
 

SpriceyStuff

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If you do remove the existing rocker arm shaft, take the time to get a good look to see what direction the shafts oil holes face. That cylinder head does not have a lot of sludge build up, so it is possible that someone has previously had it apart and did not orientate the shaft correctly.
So I just got home and got the rocker shaft off. As i removed the rocker shaft bolts I heard what sounded like a squirting noise. Is overtorquing the rocker shaft bolts a potential cause of poor top end oiling? The rockershaft itself is rather well coated in oil… curious. I’ll check for oil hole orientation as you suggested and get back to you

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SpriceyStuff

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If you do remove the existing rocker arm shaft, take the time to get a good look to see what direction the shafts oil holes face. That cylinder head does not have a lot of sludge build up, so it is possible that someone has previously had it apart and did not orientate the shaft correctly.
You were right. The oil holes on the shaft are on the opposite side from where the oil holes are on the rockers. Time to spin er round
 

Oldmanmopar

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I don’t have that cleaner

thing you’re talking about but I have a wire coat hanger. Will that work?
A tip cleaner is a bunch of different size cleaning wires on a holder. They are very cheap . Harbor freight or any welding supply store carries them. They have multiple uses for cleaning small holes in various items including carburetors. Go buy one you will always have it. I have several . I always grab a new one when going for supplies because when ever I need one they are lost in the mess. Now they are all over the garage in the shed and house

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X228R1L/?tag=fabo03-20

tbn:ANd9GcQ57njH-B8xJlDWfKJvTTUeUElR3DXujRIVL_1nMtF3QLaf0BHuAh71togSn3JrrroHcaLnOxM2Zds&usqp=CAc.png
 

my68barracuda

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You were right. The oil holes on the shaft are on the opposite side from where the oil holes are on the rockers. Time to spin er round
while the rocker arms are off the shaft, it would be a good idea to use either carb cleaner or the probes mentioned above to verify the oil passages are open.
And also look for the small flat on one end, that would be a good reference point for next time.
 

SpriceyStuff

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Mine doesn’t have a flat. Instead, mine has the small bolt hole on the one end. But instead of facing toward the valve springs. The oil holes were facing toward the push rods. But I have a bigger problem now. I crank the motor without the rocker shaft in place and I don’t seem to be getting any oil up there to begin with
while the rocker arms are off the shaft, it would be a good idea to use either carb cleaner or the probes mentioned above to verify the oil passages are open.
And also look for the small flat on one end, that would be a good reference point for next time.
 

my68barracuda

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Mine doesn’t have a flat. Instead, mine has the small bolt hole on the one end. But instead of facing toward the valve springs. The oil holes were facing toward the push rods. But I have a bigger problem now. I crank the motor without the rocker shaft in place and I don’t seem to be getting any oil up there to begin with
I thought that the small bolt hole on one end came into being with the hydraulic lifter slants. But I could be mistaken.
I also think that the hydraulic lifter slants have the shaft oil holes in a different location radially around the shaft.
 

SpriceyStuff

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Can anyone tell me why my rockershaft won’t sit in the posts?????? I’ve been trying for half an hour now I think and it just WONT SIT IN! It’s 100 degrees out and this thing is being a giant pain in the ass and I literally can’t find any reason why! The rockers aren’t between the shaft and the posts. There’s no tension between the valve-rocker-pushrod connections that could pry it up. It just won’t go in after the rockers have been out on
 

RustyRatRod

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Can anyone tell me why my rockershaft won’t sit in the posts?????? I’ve been trying for half an hour now I think and it just WONT SIT IN! It’s 100 degrees out and this thing is being a giant pain in the ass and I literally can’t find any reason why! The rockers aren’t between the shaft and the posts. There’s no tension between the valve-rocker-pushrod connections that could pry it up. It just won’t go in after the rockers have been out on
Did you back off the adjusters? If not, the rockers are holding it off from hitting the valve springs.
 

my68barracuda

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I thought that the small bolt hole on one end came into being with the hydraulic lifter slants. But I could be mistaken.
I also think that the hydraulic lifter slants have the shaft oil holes in a different location radially around the shaft.

this .org post shows the difference in oil holes between the mechanical and hydraulic cams

(410) Hydraulic vs. Mechanical cam valve train differences - Slant Six Forum

it is also mentioned in that article that the small bolt hole on the rear was initiated on the late mechanical cam slant rocker shafts.
If the rocker shaft in the motor under discussion has the small rear hold down bolt, and the rocker shaft is a shaft for mechanical rockers the rocker shaft oiling holes must have been in the correct orientation.
 
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RustyRatRod

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Thank you. I finally got it
Have you found a restriction anywhere? I'm not sure that I agree that there's enough oil coming through the head while cranking. I'm just not sure. It doesn't look like a strong supply to me. Maybe I'm wrong though.
 

SpriceyStuff

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Have you found a restriction anywhere? I'm not sure that I agree that there's enough oil coming through the head while cranking. I'm just not sure. It doesn't look like a strong supply to me. Maybe I'm wrong though.
After it ran for a minute or so, oil began to run across the rocker arms and down the head, something I never saw this motor do previously. So I think as far as oiling goes, I’m good now. The question is, now that I’ve put my rockers on with not a care in the world for where they were before, how do I adjust them. Even over my lack of exhaust pipe I can hear the valves ticking. I’ve read that intake should be .01 and exhaust should be .02 and to check when running, but if the rockers are going up and down how do you know if it’s loose or not
 

my68barracuda

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With the engine idling slowly you can run the feeler gauge between the valve tip and the rocker arm. Moving the feeler gauge in and out you will get a heavy drag when the gap is too tight and almost no drag when the gap is too large. And then you need to deal with turning the adjuster with it moving up and down.
I have had no problems with adjusting the valves with the engine warm, but not running.
I remove all six spark plugs, install a distributor cap that I have drilled out all six terminals on, so I can see the contact end of the rotor.
Then using a wrench to turn the motor with the bolt in the damper, turn the engine till the rotor points to #1 and adjust the # 1 intake and exhaust, turn the engine till the rotor points to the next cylinder to fire and adjust #5 intake and exhaust and continue in the firing order sequence.
Works for me.
 

TT5.9mag

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Shit. I'd snatch that bad boy out, put it on the anvil flat of a vise and beat it back straight with a hammer. And no, I ain't kiddin.
I did that to 3 pushrods on the 144 that was in my falcon and drove it for two years after.
 

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