Power steering pump O-Ring
- Thread starter Troub
- Start date
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what does your service manual say? download yours here:
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
I suspect most are the same. but there might be differences year to year and brand to brand.
I know old fords had a nut on the pressure outlet and with that off you separate the cover / reservoir and there is a large o ring there. never had a mopar apart
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
I suspect most are the same. but there might be differences year to year and brand to brand.
I know old fords had a nut on the pressure outlet and with that off you separate the cover / reservoir and there is a large o ring there. never had a mopar apart
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Thanks Dana67, my manual says service on the pump should be left to an expert. Lol!
I will download and see if this one is different. Hope to get the leak fixed as I think it was the major source of the gunk in the engine compartment.
If your manual is a hayse type they are very general. The factory manules ae very detailed
What type of pump? Trw(round neck), Federal(round neck) or Saginaw(oval neck)?
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Yep, it's a Hayes. I need to fire up the laptop and download the factory issue.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
It's a Federal. Here's a pic...at least I think it's a Federal. The Mopar world is new to me but I'm enjoying the heck out of it.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Once the brackets are off the tank just pops off with a little coaxing.
Watch on the back where the bolt for the bracket went through because there is a little square sealing ring between the tank and pump body that you don't want to loose unless you have a new one of those also.
Personal preference, but I always put a real thin coating of RTV just on the rounded area where the big o ring slip into the tank edge.
Just a super thin film because not only does it go back together easier, but it helps to prevent any small seepages from imperfections on that surface.
Might want to make sure the pump shaft seal isn't the leak also.
I paid right around 4 bucks for a new shaft seal on Ebay and waited to take the pump off until I had it.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Here is the kit that came with the car...Once the brackets are off the tank just pops off with a little coaxing.
Watch on the back where the bolt for the bracket went through because there is a little square sealing ring between the tank and pump body that you don't want to loose unless you have a new one of those also.
Personal preference, but I always put a real thin coating of RTV just on the rounded area where the big o ring slip into the tank edge.
Just a super thin film because not only does it go back together easier, but it helps to prevent any small seepages from imperfections on that surface.
Might want to make sure the pump shaft seal isn't the leak also.
I paid right around 4 bucks for a new shaft seal on Ebay and waited to take the pump off until I had it.
Need to see a pic of the back to verify trw or federal. TRW mount hole is at 2 o'clock and federal is at 3.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I can tell by the bracket mount bosses, the high pressure outlet and return tube that it's a federal pump.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Cool, you got both seals, and the big ring so you are set.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
The rest of the kit is for a full rebuild I guess, once I get that tank off can I access the internals without having to mess with that pulley?
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Yes, but to replace the pump shaft seal you need to pull it off.
Autozone loans those pullers for a 40 deposit that you get back when you return the puller.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Once the tank is off can I access th
Got that puller as recommend and pulled that pulley off without too much trouble. Tank came right off with a few light taps from the rubber mallet. Plan on working on it later in my garage annex, aka the kitchen counter. Trying to figure out if I need a special tool to get the shaft seal out?
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I use a flat screwdriver between the cast body and the tank where I can twist the screwdriver like I was turning a screw and it pops loose.
Just be sure you have all the bolts out of any place that they go through the tank itself.
To remove the shaft seal tap a small flat screwdriver through the metal casing of the seal on the outer edge and pry it out.
Be at least a little careful about scratching the shaft, but it's not hard.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
Ok on the shaft seal, will try that method. My big O ring looks more like a flat gasket which is why I thought the cast body had to seperate. More than likely the reason for my leaks!
Last edited:
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I have noticed some of the large rings are a flat (square) ring, and some are round.
The round ones seem to seal easier, but you pretty much have to use what you get I guess.
Putting the tank back on I will sometimes use a vice just to gently squeeze it over the sealing ring.
This is where the thin film of RTV on the lip of the tank helps a lot.
Keeping the tank from popping back off is a bit of a 3 hander sometimes.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Leaking ps pumps suck. I'm getting a few drops out of the Lexus and that damn thing is buried in there. Right on top of the low mount alternator...brilliant!
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
I have noticed some of the large rings are a flat (square) ring, and some are round.
The round ones seem to seal easier, but you pretty much have to use what you get I guess.
Putting the tank back on I will sometimes use a vice just to gently squeeze it over the sealing ring.
This is where the thin film of RTV on the lip of the tank helps a lot.
Keeping the tank from popping back off is a bit of a 3 hander sometimes.
Troub
67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
The advise on seal removal worked great TrailBeast, got that job done today. Pics....
Dart Gone Fishing
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Once the brackets are off the tank just pops off with a little coaxing.
Watch on the back where the bolt for the bracket went through because there is a little square sealing ring between the tank and pump body that you don't want to loose unless you have a new one of those also.
Personal preference, but I always put a real thin coating of RTV just on the rounded area where the big o ring slip into the tank edge.
Just a super thin film because not only does it go back together easier, but it helps to prevent any small seepages from imperfections on that surface.
Might want to make sure the pump shaft seal isn't the leak also.
I paid right around 4 bucks for a new shaft seal on Ebay and waited to take the pump off until I had it.
I tried to fix my leaky tank years ago with a new o-ring. It still leaked after. I didn't use RTV on the tank though. Looks like I'm going to have to try that. I'm tired of the leak. Over 20 years now.
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