Power to Manual Brake Conversion 73 Duster

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D

Dugster

'73 Resto-Mod
Joined
May 12, 2006
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OK.. I thought this would be easier but.. other than the correct Master Cylinder and correct Pushrod, what else do I need for this? And where can I get the pushrod?

Thanx, Doug
 
It would have to be a junkyard piece. Or you could get the adjustable one from Mopar Performance. When i did mine I also went with the newer aluminum master cylinder and ended up having to cut and weld the pushrod twice to get the brake pedal where I wanted it. Its possoble that the A body pushrod I bought from a junkyard down south sent me a b body pushrod, maybe that's why it was too long. whatever. All in all its a simple modification. Don't forget, there's supposed to be a little rubber locking ring in the recess in the M/C. Its purpose is to keep the pushrod from pulling out of the end of the m/c. Make sure you have this. You'll probably have to buy one.
 
Do you have a good working booster?
 
Sounds like a personal question.. LOL

Yeah, the BRAKE booster works quite well withe some vacuum.
 
With some vaccum? LOL, OK, does it leak?
 
Since U R Asking About Brakes , I Have A ??, Had Manual Drum Brakes On 71 Dart,swithed To Disc Brakes, Want To Stay Manual No Power,switched Mc To One Off Dodge Trk[alum Off 86] What Problems Will I Have,havent Changed P-valve Or Installed Newer Mc Yet,still Have Old Mc, What Do I Need For This To Work...thanks
 
From what I'm told, the P valve below will not distribute the fluid correctly.
I have NOT been there done that. But getting there........
I have the correct P valve, but it really doesn't look any different then the drum one I have. I got the P-valve from a good fella that has the same year car as I but just had P/B's.

He went with a total Wilwood system for his ride and off came the stock stuff.
 
Sorry I took so long to get back.. The brake booster does not leak. It works fine. The problem being that the tunnel ram I just installed doesn't allow for the vacuum needed to run the booster so I would like to change out to manual brakes. I could get the electric vacuum pump for $250 but I'm trying to minimize everything under the hood and maximize what's in my wallet.
So, will the adjustable pushrod mentioned above work for a stock manual brake M/C?

Doug
 
HawaiiDuster said:
The last time I tried the adjustable pushrod on an abody, it was too long even when at its shortest setting.
Click to expand...

Same here. I got mine from Mancini, they gladly refunded my money. Heck, if I'm going to cut and weld, I'll use the old rod.
 
They are right Dugster. I just came in from installing this and I had to cut and weld again. The adjustable pushrod is too short and that really blows.:angry7:
 
How are things working out with the change to manual? I'm wanting to do the same thing to a 74 duster and am interested in how you are making out with the pushrod issue.
 
Dugster,

I switched my 73 dart from power to manual brakes by simply, by replacinf the power booster with a manual brake pushrod from a 1969 barracuda.

I used the same master cylinder without even taking the lines loose. I just removed the power booster by unbolting the M/C , unbolting the power booster from firewall, and disconnecting it from the brake pedal. I then bolted the M/C to the firewall (where power Booster used ot mount and installed the manual brake rod from pedal to M/C. they work fine, the pedal effort is fine and the pedal stays firm when I stage the car at track!!

Go by a manual brake rod at you local used parts recycling facility (junkyard) and you are set.

Bob
 
Hi, I have a manual brake pushrod I bought on Ebay awhile back. Was going to change from power brakes to manual on my 73 Dart but decided not to. $20 and its yours. I believe it came from a 72 or older car, either a dart of duster. Also not sure if it will work with your M/C. Let me know and I can send a pic of it too.
Ted
 
racerbob said:
Dugster,

I switched my 73 dart from power to manual brakes by simply, by replacinf the power booster with a manual brake pushrod from a 1969 barracuda.

I used the same master cylinder without even taking the lines loose. I just removed the power booster by unbolting the M/C , unbolting the power booster from firewall, and disconnecting it from the brake pedal. I then bolted the M/C to the firewall (where power Booster used ot mount and installed the manual brake rod from pedal to M/C. they work fine, the pedal effort is fine and the pedal stays firm when I stage the car at track!!

Go by a manual brake rod at you local used parts recycling facility (junkyard) and you are set.

Bob
Click to expand...
We don't have those anymore.....
 
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