Preparing to install new engine with TTI: questions

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Trevor B

Trevor B

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Tomorrow is the big day! The 360 (ran on a test stand) is ready to go into my 1973 Duster and it's getting TTI full length headers. Duster has power steering and power brakes, a mini starter, and 904. I will be using a lift at the college's auto shop. Any tips or tricks I should know?

1) Would it be better to pull the 318 out attached to the transmission and then bolt up everything together - 360 to 904, headers and starter installed - outside the car?

2) Or should I pull the 318 leaving the transmission in the car and then drop the 360, putting on the headers when it is in the engine bay? Bolt up transmission before or after header install?

3) Also, do I need to drop the center link?

Thanks!
 
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If you have a lift drop it all out the bottom. So much easier and you don't beat the crap out of everything.
 
Okay - I'm at a loss.
Would someone please explain to me how to go in from below?
I've fought all day and am wiped out and frustrated. I concentrated on the left header and didn't even try the right.

It's pretty clear to me that the center link threads through these headers, so I pulled it but still could not get it on.

clv22p said:
Headers have to go on as you install the engine. Then put the transmission in.
Click to expand...

Do I need to drop out the transmission first, drop the engine with the headers on, and then re-install the transmission after?

dano said:
If you have a lift drop it all out the bottom. So much easier and you don't beat the crap out of everything.
Click to expand...

Do I need to drop the K-frame? If so, how does that work (never done it before, never removed torsion bars either).

I really don't want to do it but do I need to pull the steering box? I'm thinking it's going to be very hard to put it back with the headers on.

The shop has all the good equipment:
2 post lift
engine hoist winched from above (smooth rolling)
transmission jack, floor jack, etc.
I have borrowed a load leveler but have never used it.

Thank you for any help.
 
holy snap... I have done this a few times. First, you've done your home work and have the right converter for the 360 and the right engine mounts - right? The trans doesn't need to come out - in fact I prefer not to remove it. The left (drivers) header needs to be in place before the engine goes in - and yea, the link goes through it. The right header has to be snaked in there as the engine is lowered in - it's a PITA - you have to sort of lever it in once the engine is about 10" from being in. You don't need to bolt up the engine/trans first - in fact, once it's all in there, you can do it either way. The load leveler is a good piece to have when installing the new engine.
 
If you don't have it - get someone to help you out - a second set of eyes and hands are REALLY nice to have the first (or any) time you do this!!
 
I put the engine and trans in together...the headers are laid in engine bay and tied back on the inner fenders...and lowered into place with the engine
 
ok heres how i would do it..

if you are using the same trans i'd leave it in and pull the 318 and drop the 360 in...

bolt 360 to the trans, and drop the mounts in place.. do not bolt in..

as for the headers the directions are very clear in installation.. yes some steering come apart for the left side.. motor also has to be raised quite a bit too...

passenger side is easy as hell...
 
I should clarify - I have a Milodon 8qt pan and it is very much in the way for installing the right side header, so Joe is probably right, with a stock type pan I imagine that header drops right in. If you are trying to do this logically - stop, it's an odd process and doesn't really "make sense". Get the left header in there and pulled out of the way against the inner fender - as I recall it sits at about a 30 degree angle, it definitely doesn't sit like it's ready to go on the engine. There are a lot of little things that have to go just right - while you are trying line up the engine with the trans, you have to stop and drop the right header in (it also has to be pulled back once it's semi in place). Then the engine has to catch the "pins" on the trans - this is where the leveler comes in handy, it makes minor adjustments possible - I have had to lift the front of the trans nearly up to the inside of the tunnel to get them to mate. I have also found that a couple of good pry bars come in handy. You're not reinventing the wheel here - it has been done and you can do it!
 
holy smokes - I feel horrible - it's NOT the center link that goes through those headers - it's the drivers side torsion bar. I have been out messing around with mine all day and just realized I misspoke earlier!!
 
You'll have to pull the drive shaft, unload and slide the torsion bars back, unbolt the calipers, undo the upper ball joints, disconnect the shifter, plus the usual stuff to pull the motor. I pulled the radiator too because I'm going to replace it. Support K-member and trans cross member unbolt them and and raise car.
 
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I have put the driver side tti header numerous times without taking the torsion bar off.....on a 71 duster..71 dart..and 73 duster...
 
Okay so the headers are sort of in. Had to remove the studs and put them in after. Left side a super tight fit. Center link left side had to come out to get in from below. I took it all the way off. Starter had to come out. Engine, bolted to transmission, had to go up and down inches at a time. Must have two people for this.

Most important thing: #7 tube is a slip fit and comes apart for installation. This tube is between the torsion bar and body!

General problems:
Right side, second from rear hole doesn't line up with head on my particular 360 heads. Right side second from front barely.
Cannot use right side transmission to engine strap at all.

Unique to my engine problems:
Left side transmission to engine strap too short... Block doesn't have further back hole.
Managed to strip rear right side stud hole - barely any torque...

Gotta go back and finish tomorrow somehow.
 
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Well... It turned out that the right side flange wasn't exactly straight. But after much experimentation, I found a pattern for putting in the bolts that worked, tightening each very very gradually, which pulled the flange straight against the head. Regarding torque strap, well, the engine hasn't fallen out yet.
She sounds fantastic.
Hard to believe this was a year ago?!
 
I have my drivers and pass side in, clears everything so far, power steering is fine....except I gotta get the no.7 in still which might necessitate removal of the column.

I have a 360 based 410, milodon 8 qrt, 4spd with Lakewood bell.

I had to remove the idler, Pittman, drvrs tie rod and scoot it aside. Everything scraped by getting it...the hedmans were easier on the pass side.

Imo, it would be better/easier to cut the rear flange between 6 and 8 to clear the bell housing on pass side. They already cut it for no.7

Also, the holes aren't aligned with the factory head, had to file them open toward th ends to get bolts through.
 
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For me, once the driver side was more or less in position (not bolted on though), I got under the car and slid the number 7 pipe into place while a friend was holding the rest of it and being my eyes on lining it up. Then it took some work to move it around and sort of pound it into place. Putting something on the tube to lubricate it slightly was a big help as is is super-awkward to be trying to manipulate it.
 
Trevor B said:
For me, once the driver side was more or less in position (not bolted on though), I got under the car and slid the number 7 pipe into place while a friend was holding the rest of it and being my eyes on lining it up. Then it took some work to move it around and sort of pound it into place. Putting something on the tube to lubricate it slightly was a big help as is is super-awkward to be trying to manipulate it.
Click to expand...
I had to drop the auto column to get no.7 in place, then the column went back in with .050 clearance to no.7. I have a manual column I'll get around to dropping in some day.

Headers also hit the Lakewood bell, so I used a floor jack and 2x6 and jacked up the 4 header tunes right underneath the interference and it clearanced the tube by .030.... I run solid mounts, it don't need more than that.
Prop valve was moved to install and put right back in its stock location after install. 90 degree adaptor went right back on no prob.

hedmans fit better on pass side, same amount of work to install too.
 
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