prices!!!!!

-
barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
20,443
Reaction score
10,035
Location
Shepherd, Texas ( SE Tx)
Ever so often I will read thru the for mopar car for sale section here, Cl all around a 5-6 state area, even glance at Feebay ( which I have never paid much attention to, ever....)....... OK so I can not make comment in the mopar car for sale section...... BUT..... LOL.. I guess I can comment here. Cars for sale here and it is "bumped" week after week, or the price is dropped 10 straight weeks and NO takers!!? LOL
Anything actually selling? Guess not, prices of 95 % of it.. wonder why???? OK so I understand CL is a cluster mess of gigantic proportion is majority of the cases. But here you would think some cars and prices could be somewhat is line with reality.
You will find fair amount of mopar for sale on various FB sites falling in the real of reality.

I know, prices are loved or hated, depending if you are selling or buying. I am neither right NOW!!!!!!

Oh well, I made comments here that are FABO legal!!! LOL
 
What I have found is the true price comes out when the potential buyer shows up in person.
The right price range has gotten me out to see the car.
Seeing the car in person usually gets me to figure out how much I want to pay in relation to the "going price" for similar cars.
 
Remember back in the late 70s and 80s before Mopars became collector items and you could pick up a nice muscle car for a couple hundred bucks. I had a couple buddies pick up a 67 GTX in V N C for $400 off a used car lot and another one bought a 68 GTX for $300 from a guy down the street that didn't want a gas gussler.
 
I've bought 4 parts cars and trucks off craigslist (one with a driving 440) and my 60,000 original mile 73 Satellite, plus a motorcycle and many parts.

I've bought another parts car and another motorcycle off ebay along with my super solid, unmolested 1 of 1680 66 Coronet 440 383-4 car.

Just gotta be aware of "value" versus pricing.
 
I have over the years found bout all my cars from networking mopor friends, ... back in 90's and early 2000 before the puter, MCG sold cars for me, and people would see I always had something for sale, so ever so often, someone would call me from 500 mi with car they could not seem to sell locally. Hemi cuda, AAR cuda, etc, you would be amazed.
Now we have all the TV cars shows, reality !!!! TV.. ha and lol..... don't get me started on this!!!!!

I have 3 cars now, all came off CL over the last 3 years. One was priced fair to begin with, 4 hr away. He dropped the price when I got there, I did not have to even ask,,,, why?? He had crossed threaded a new oil pressure sender and it was leaking. H e must have thought the engine was blown up or ??? He felt bad he was "screwing" me I guess. Basically I got it for a fair price, fixed the leak, great. The second, was a good builder and priced fair to both of us. I never even made counter offer. The third car was overpriced by $2000 in my book, it was misrepresented, I got it for a price of $600 after my 5 hr trip there., and bitching him out for lying, and that was what it was worth ( to me).....

BUT I can look at 1000 car ads in CL scattered around 6 states and see maybe 10 I feel is priced somewhere in the real world market!!!!
 
Ive been looking for a nice 1967-71 Dodge dart 2 door hardtop and was looking to spend between 10-12 grand and everything I went and looked at had problems not disclosed by the owners. I don't know where people are getting there prices at but 10-12 grand should buy something more than a car that really needs to be completely gone through again. If be better off building my own and having someone else do body work and paint it for me.
 
I paid
MoparMike1974 said:
I laugh when I see rusted out 4 door darts for 2 grand.
Click to expand...

I paid two grand for this back in 2005. Granted it was a slant six car but I have not touched the body or interior since then.

7456E98E-A386-4FD7-8A4E-77827693C14E.png
 
In 2005 I paid $300 for two 73 318 swingers. One a parts car and the other pretty much rust free except for front floor pans. Those days are over im afraid.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
In 2005 I paid $300 for two 73 318 swingers. One a parts car and the other pretty much rust free except for front floor pans. Those days are over im afraid.
Click to expand...
So true, I paid $2500 for a rusted out 70 cuda parts car.
Bought it just for the motor and transmission.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
In 2005 I paid $300 for two 73 318 swingers. One a parts car and the other pretty much rust free except for front floor pans. Those days are over im afraid.
Click to expand...

The car market has always been a shaker and mover on prices IMO... But remember just like anything else in life what goes up must come down. Whether it's a 4 door dart or a fastback mustang the bulk of the money spent to restore may not be too far from each other (I am speaking relative terms in that said FB mustang is a typical C code car.)

It comes down to the same 3 things that are always the determining factors. Timing, patience, and position. When they align themselves a buyer gets atleast in their minds what they wanted in regards to price and quality.... The deals are out there and when I get bored and go hunting I usually find cars at prices that quite frankly most people today think is just someone BS'ing..... Whatever.... But the deals come from people who aren't ate up with Barrett Jackson lol....

But in regards to what people think some of the cars are worth I see for sale is laughable but we all know their is an $%^ for every seat. I personally could never wrap around my head what some people pay for cars these days. It will go south eventually and people won't care about a basic car with 4 wheels with a bunch of rust and such so when it flops that's when the market will autocorrect....

JW
 
BigStrok3 said:
Ive been looking for a nice 1967-71 Dodge dart 2 door hardtop and was looking to spend between 10-12 grand and everything I went and looked at had problems not disclosed by the owners. I don't know where people are getting there prices at but 10-12 grand should buy something more than a car that really needs to be completely gone through again. If be better off building my own and having someone else do body work and paint it for me.
Click to expand...

Here is how I figure see of all this. Yes I agree for $10-12000 you should be able to find a well done driver or better. Will the seller have than that in it??? Totally restored or 95% ? probably!

What separates one car from another, speaking here of the same basic model, 318 67-71 dart?? (Yea add $ for a real 340 car. ) One big thing, $$ spent on body/paint and drivetrain, basically . You can obviously find these cars where the guy spent $10,000 on fully rebuilt SB stroker/ trans/rear end. Or..... where the guy had a nice running sb that was not wore out, good trans, and a rear he simply did new bearings, and had a good suregrip, then his investment was no where near $10,000. Same with body /paint. some people can do a pro job themselves,.... others pay $5-7000 for such (or more!) . and everything in between. Cost of project ? I peg a good 318 67-71 dart at around $2000, little more or less, depending on your location, and condition. I said good project, that means a 95% complete car with the usuabut minimal rust. OK so you expect nice interior, add $1500 lets say, front end rebuild ($500) brakes bearings $500, tires (ha) won't even go there, misc $500-1000 minimum ( rechrome bumpers? $1000, needs a grill/bezels $$400, new windshield? add $$$$$$$$......etc etc).... so get out the calculator, add minimum and minimum of these figures!!!! .....

Ok so now you find the dart for sale, buyer thinks he will get his $$ back out.....How nice is the car and what is his price????? did he put $10000 in drivetrain and/ or did he put $5000 in paint plus all the rest!!!!

So he built a car himself with pretty much good used drivetrain, he or someone did good body /paint, maybe perfect maybe not?? He bought a good fair priced project, he did NOT have bumpers rechomed , had a good engine/ trans, put a good 8 1/4 w suregrip in it, bought the good Legendary interior, but HE installed the covers, carpet, headliner..... and he figures his labor is worth pretty much ZERO, after all this is his hobby!!!!!!!! Now what is his price? $10000-12000 ?????

Selling?? Two ways to get your $ back out of an old Mopar....... find good project, get it running and sell at a profit...... buy a restored car worth it $$ and no where near what the PO spent on it,,,, forget labor, not even parts..... , live in a part of the US where you can find buyers for anything and they will pay big $$ for it.... OR maybe buy a model that the costs of parts any labor, the market will actually be more than that sum.......not the average A body......ie...lets say, for example, 69 charger rt 440 car, and just because it could sell that charger for $30,000 restored to perfection, will not guaranteed you a profit or get your $ back out...it is all relative!!!??????? LOL

Now if this charger is restored on one of the reality auto tv show!!!!!!!!! it will show someone paying $55000 for it!!!!! LOL again! ... and so why are CL POS projects expensive???!!!!!!!!! hahahahahahahahahaha
 
ch1ll said:
auction selling prices are a fair gauge of true value.
Click to expand...

I disagree somewhat. I view BJ not necessarily, as a fair representative as to the majority of buyers for our cars. Besides that, vast majority of people in this hobby buy projects, What is that project worth?? The smaller car auction is probably as better barometer. But there are premiums for the buyer, the seller, commissions come out, shill bidding??? Drunk bidders??

I wager to say, that car that sells at BJ will NEVER bring that price again anywhere ever, except maybe back there!!????/

I have been in the quarter horse business all my life. A good horse at the right auction, can bring good $. His position in that sale can add or subtract thousands. Same with those big car auctions. Lots of variables. But, let face it, even members on Fabo and FBBO seem to hate to tell the price that they got! Of course, someone has to buy it to make a sale in the first place.
 
I stated that auction prices are a FAIR gauge of value, not an excellent gauge. with auction price common sense also has to be considered, you know condition of the car and conditions of the auction. auction sales are only a base point.

and appraisers use an average of auction sales prices as a base point to determine value for an appraisal.

market demand and willingness to pay determine value, drunk or sober. good, fair or banging deals do not.
its human nature to value something off of the highest previous price paid, not saying it will bring that price again.

I see cars on here with asking prices in 5 figure range that would only bring 4 figures at auction.
 
Ever so often I look over to FBBO as I do love some of those and have owned many over the last 30 yrs. Over there they seem to say sold when sold, and I realize unless they state the final price, who knows for exactly what. BUT when I see 6 months of cars for sale and 3 that sold, I figure most were priced over the market. Same on here, Majority to be me are over priced, and IF none are selling, then priced over what the market will pay.
Sell a car at auction? Then list it at "no reserve" and let the market there establish its worth!!!!!!!! Ha... IF you do not accept that then YOU the seller pays the commission to get it BACK!!! lol And let your buddies stand in the back, and bid it up to reserve????
 
barbee6043 said:
Ever so often I look over to FBBO as I do love some of those and have owned many over the last 30 yrs. Over there they seem to say sold when sold, and I realize unless they state the final price, who knows for exactly what. BUT when I see 6 months of cars for sale and 3 that sold, I figure most were priced over the market. Same on here, Majority to be me are over priced, and IF none are selling, then priced over what the market will pay.
Sell a car at auction? Then list it at "no reserve" and let the market there establish its worth!!!!!!!! Ha... IF you do not accept that then YOU the seller pays the commission to get it BACK!!! lol And let your buddies stand in the back, and bid it up to reserve????
Click to expand...



I agree with you, there is no excellent way to value. that's where the common sense comes in. I just passed on a 68 numbers matching GTS cause I just could not place value on it, couldn't find someone to verify it and my common sense said no to his asking price. It also didn't help that I am not well versed in GTS's or numbers matching 68 cars.

do I have regret? YES it feels like it slipped through my fingers, but common sense said no.
 
ch1ll said:
I agree with you, there is no excellent way to value. that's where the common sense comes in. I just passed on a 68 numbers matching GTS cause I just could not place value on it, couldn't find someone to verify it and my common sense said no to his asking price. It also didn't help that I am not well versed in GTS's or numbers matching 68 cars.

do I have regret? YES it feels like it slipped through my fingers, but common sense said no.
Click to expand...

Gut feeling usually guides me in life. You alone has to feel comfortable with the price you pay, whatever it might be. I have paid more than what I actually thought a car was worth, fair market value, because it was worth it to me and I could afford that $.

Just for some info, and no doubt others out there are better number crnchers than me, but '68 was sorta of funny year. The originl blocks (big blocks I know) had a build sequence number (not vin) on the back top of the block. All year ? just big blocks?? don't really know.... We now '69 they started using the vin on side of blocks and trans.....
 
barbee6043 said:
Gut feeling usually guides me in life. You alone has to feel comfortable with the price you pay, whatever it might be. I have paid more than what I actually thought a car was worth, fair market value, because it was worth it to me and I could afford that $.

Just for some info, and no doubt others out there are better number crnchers than me, but '68 was sorta of funny year. The originl blocks (big blocks I know) had a build sequence number (not vin) on the back top of the block. All year ? just big blocks?? don't really know.... We now '69 they started using the vin on side of blocks and trans.....
Click to expand...

that build sequence number on the motor really messed me up, I just had no clue. its also the number stamped on the radiator support and the trunk rim under the trunk seal. the guy didn't have the paper work together when I looked at the car which was 300 miles from home. got a look at that later in the week as he texted it to me. it had a partial broadcast sheet with sequence number on it and the car had been certified by galen govier (asshole will not answer his phone). I couldn't find a reliable MOPAR appraiser. after 2 weeks of mentally beating myself up over all this cause I really wanted this car and I love darts more than I like money, I got my balls back, called him to make him an offer and he told me it was sold. DOH

other fun GTS rumors and factoids
67 was the first year for GTS, about 150 made
if it wasn't for Mr. Norm and grand spalding dodge there probably would not be any big block darts
67 were big block cars only, in 68 and 69 it was both a small block and big block car
and after 3 years it was all over.
just over 2000 GTS's were made in 68, 1100 or so were automatics.
power steering was not an option, there just was no room in the engine bay.
the radiator in the 68 was also the same one used in the super stock hemi racecars.(try finding and buying one, way stupid money).
the exhaust manifolds were also special to that car.(more stupid money)
 
I had a 67 383 cuda back in the mid nineties. The mopar market was still soft, it had not really even begun to recover from its fall of "91-2... I found the cuda out in Oakland Ca. totally restored, owner had put 10,000 trouble free miles on it. I flew there for $100 on the midnight flight out of KC Mo, drove it back. Most fun I ever had. Had it bought a week and guy just had to have it. He cried like baby till I agreed to let him have it. It came with an extra 4 speed, and set of headers. I told the guy to stop balling in front of his wife and kids, I would keep the parts, and take $500 profit, Bad mistake on my part! I really wanted that car. I paid $6500 back then, But they were selling pretty good even back then. Ever time I would find one, it had sold. Buddy had an original 383 cuda 67 or 8. He passed at an early age, his dad sold it back in 2000 for $17000. A nice original car but unrestored car.
I found an M code 69 cuda back in 1999. rust free original cuda, no rust, someone had stole the hood scoops off it,#'s 440 was rebuilt and sitting on a stand. The owner had bought it new. Price was $10,000 but hated to go borrow it and tell the (then) wife! Another big mistake.
 
from here on it I'm just looking forward. LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL
 
No one wants to pay the price for a 340 car that the same 340 car is worth in parts. One reason why I just strip-em. Then at least you get your money back from your investment and guys building clones get parts and you get to keep what you need for free. If I wouldn't buy some of these cars they would go to the crusher complete. I couldn't agree more with this poster dilemma.

Can't bring myself to part this rare 340 car out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top