Pro Flo 4 Timing

Ivan Baez

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has anyone experienced a stuck IAC valve on their proflo 4 so far?. Mine seems to have stoppped working this week. All the setting sare okay, but the idle is too low even on statup, and the RPMS stay up after acceleration. Will check it this wekend, but ondered if anyone has experenced the same.
 

TurboGLH

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has anyone experienced a stuck IAC valve on their proflo 4 so far?. Mine seems to have stoppped working this week. All the setting sare okay, but the idle is too low even on statup, and the RPMS stay up after acceleration. Will check it this wekend, but ondered if anyone has experenced the same.

The IAC motor is disabled when the ECU is not in idle mode. That's determined by TPS position, 0-1% is idle, 2% or more and no IAC motor.

It's more likely it's a bad TPS sensor, I had issues with the one that was in the kit and had to replace it.
 

BergmanAutoCraft

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The IAC motor is disabled when the ECU is not in idle mode. That's determined by TPS position, 0-1% is idle, 2% or more and no IAC motor.

It's more likely it's a bad TPS sensor, I had issues with the one that was in the kit and had to replace it.
I replaced mine too. The Edelbrock tech told me to buy one from Standard. Their customer service is wrong on so many levels.
 

Ivan Baez

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thanks for your feedback. I will check if the TPS reading is working ok, I did not see the readings on that last time I drove it, good tip!.
 

Ivan Baez

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I checked the car yesterday. The TPS in the edelbrock app read ok, from zero to 99, depending on how much the pedal was pressed. I turned on the car on and the IAC started working immediately, this is it got fixed by itself. I ran it for around 30min I did not see any failure, obviously the Idle RPM feature worked fine and idle was pretty stable.

All I noticed at the beggining was that in the values was that the IAC % was quite hich, around 60%, so I did a fine tuning on it until it went down to green values (5%-20%), lets see how it behaves in the following days.
 

Ivan Baez

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Could it be that this TPS reading happens when you turn the key on with the foot resting on the pedal?
 

Ivan Baez

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Im wondering what size of alternator everyone is using. I have a 90amp one from an 80s chrysler vehicle, but yesterday the battery drained after I was stuck on traffic at 90 degrees ambient for about 40min, the derale 2400cfm fan was on all the time (I recently lowered the fan ON temps to 185 and 195 respectively so the engine ran cooler) and I was listening to music (2 amplifiers 2200w total, obviously not full volume), and then after a wile I noticed the voltage coming down until the car stalled.

Called the wife to bring her SUV and charged the battery for a while, then it started normal.
I got this alternator when the car was carburated, just for the sound system. But now with the efi, efi sump pump, CDI box and the electric fan the load seems to be too much for that alternator.

Amp has been there for about 6 months, the previous one was exactly the same but I replaced it because it started making noise on the bearing. The battery is a red optima 1000 cca, I installed it a month ago or so.

I was looking at a 90s 120A alternator from a ram charger (see pic below), since I have serpentine belt the options are less that for V belt. There is a power master unit 160a and others 200a and higher. Not sure what happens when you have an alternator much higher than you current needs.

Please let me know what you guys are running. Im planning to add front electric windows and AC to the car in the future.

Screenshot_20220403-165707_Chrome.jpg
 

JoesEdge

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Im wondering what size of alternator everyone is using. I have a 90amp one from an 80s chrysler vehicle, but yesterday the battery drained after I was stuck on traffic at 90 degrees ambient for about 40min, the derale 2400cfm fan was on all the time (I recently lowered the fan ON temps to 185 and 195 respectively so the engine ran cooler) and I was listening to music (2 amplifiers 2200w total, obviously not full volume), and then after a wile I noticed the voltage coming down until the car stalled.

Called the wife to bring her SUV and charged the battery for a while, then it started normal.
I got this alternator when the car was carburated, just for the sound system. But now with the efi, efi sump pump, CDI box and the electric fan the load seems to be too much for that alternator.

Amp has been there for about 6 months, the previous one was exactly the same but I replaced it because it started making noise on the bearing. The battery is a red optima 1000 cca, I installed it a month ago or so.

I was looking at a 90s 120A alternator from a ram charger (see pic below), since I have serpentine belt the options are less that for V belt. There is a power master unit 160a and others 200a and higher. Not sure what happens when you have an alternator much higher than you current needs.

Please let me know what you guys are running. Im planning to add front electric windows and AC to the car in the future.

View attachment 1715900888

Are you running a Magnum serpentine setup? Just curious.
 

Ivan Baez

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Are you running a Magnum serpentine setup? Just curious.

yes, got a crank and water pump pulleys from a later model 360, should be a magnum, and then got the alternator. Since I have no power steering or AC nothing else was needed.

you can kind of see it in these old pics

WhatsApp Image 2022-04-04 at 6.42.11 PM.jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-04-04 at 6.42.10 PM.jpeg
 

Ivan Baez

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I made some measurements and it seems the old alternator was not charging at all. At idle voltage with full charged battery was 11.8-12.0V. I manually excited the alternator and did not change at all, so I removed it and installed the 120A alternator I got.

The alignment seems the same but the new one is a little bit fatter, so now I have a clearance problem on the back of the alternator with the head, so it has to be cloked differently. Now I need a longer lower bracket. Im gonna solve this by installing a Heim joint adjuster, and a longer belt, lets see how that works.

Anyone is using this alternator type?, according to the catalog the application is for a RAM 1500, Jeep grand cherokee, etc If I remember correctly late 80's or early 90's.

WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 9.03.37 AM (3).jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 9.03.37 AM (1).jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-05-09 at 9.03.36 AM.jpeg
 

Heywodja

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Depending on your level of expertise, it can be done. For most though, you want to use their distributor. Unfortunately it’s taller than a common MSD replacement distributor. I wanted a sanitary look, so I shortened the housing to gain clearance between the wiper motor and the spark plug boots.

Shout out to Peter @BergmanAutoCraft

As some of you are aware, the distributor that comes with the small block Edelbrock PRO FLO 4 kit has some issues. One of which is the distributor is so tall that the spark plug boots hit the lower wiper motor mount.
My solution was to eliminate the wiper motor and have no wipers.

I reached out to Peter, and he had a solution that solved the problem and allowed me to have wipers. I live in south Texas and in case you may not know we get some heavy downpours that appear out of nowhere, just like south Florida, so wipers are a must have.
He modified my small block distributor that came with the kit by shortening the total height of the distributor by .750" so there is now clearance between the wiper motor lower mount and the spark plug boots at the top of the distributor terminals.

He has always been a major help and is willing to share advice even when it is not his product!
 

go-fish

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@ivan
I made some measurements and it seems the old alternator was not charging at all. At idle voltage with full charged battery was 11.8-12.0V. I manually excited the alternator and did not change at all, so I removed it and installed the 120A alternator I got.

The alignment seems the same but the new one is a little bit fatter, so now I have a clearance problem on the back of the alternator with the head, so it has to be cloked differently. Now I need a longer lower bracket. Im gonna solve this by installing a Heim joint adjuster, and a longer belt, lets see how that works.

Anyone is using this alternator type?, according to the catalog the application is for a RAM 1500, Jeep grand cherokee, etc If I remember correctly late 80's or early 90's.

View attachment 1715924871

View attachment 1715924872

View attachment 1715924873

I would appreciate part numbers as I would like to run an alternator in the 120 range. Are you using the Denso alternator bracket from Mancini ?
 

Ivan Baez

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Shout out to Peter @BergmanAutoCraft

As some of you are aware, the distributor that comes with the small block Edelbrock PRO FLO 4 kit has some issues. One of which is the distributor is so tall that the spark plug boots hit the lower wiper motor mount.
My solution was to eliminate the wiper motor and have no wipers.

I reached out to Peter, and he had a solution that solved the problem and allowed me to have wipers. I live in south Texas and in case you may not know we get some heavy downpours that appear out of nowhere, just like south Florida, so wipers are a must have.
He modified my small block distributor that came with the kit by shortening the total height of the distributor by .750" so there is now clearance between the wiper motor lower mount and the spark plug boots at the top of the distributor terminals.

He has always been a major help and is willing to share advice even when it is not his product!

Was the solution something you can purchase or did you fabricated it?.

I ask because I have the same issue and got rid of the wiper motor. I don't take the car out during rainy season because its not safe with the 426 stroker, no ABS, etc anyway.

In my case even without the wiper motor I found that some of the boots still rub in the firewall at times. So after a while I had some spark going into the chasis, had to tape those MSD boots to prevent that from happening. Just received the new boots, but the clearance is too small.
 

Ivan Baez

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I made some measurements and it seems the old alternator was not charging at all. At idle voltage with full charged battery was 11.8-12.0V. I manually excited the alternator and did not change at all, so I removed it and installed the 120A alternator I got.

The alignment seems the same but the new one is a little bit fatter, so now I have a clearance problem on the back of the alternator with the head, so it has to be cloked differently. Now I need a longer lower bracket. Im gonna solve this by installing a Heim joint adjuster, and a longer belt, lets see how that works.

Anyone is using this alternator type?, according to the catalog the application is for a RAM 1500, Jeep grand cherokee, etc If I remember correctly late 80's or early 90's.

View attachment 1715924871

View attachment 1715924872

View attachment 1715924873

This is the final result, nice charging voltage with the larger alternator.

WhatsApp Image 2022-07-18 at 12.22.29 PM (1).jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-07-18 at 12.22.29 PM.jpeg
 

Ivan Baez

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@ivan


I would appreciate part numbers as I would like to run an alternator in the 120 range. Are you using the Denso alternator bracket from Mancini ?

See attached images of the old 90A alternator (works fine if you dont have that many electronics) and the beefier 120A one from the cherokee.

WhatsApp Image 2022-07-18 at 12.23.24 PM.jpeg


WhatsApp Image 2022-07-18 at 12.23.23 PM.jpeg
 

Heywodja

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Was the solution something you can purchase or did you fabricated it?.

I ask because I have the same issue and got rid of the wiper motor. I don't take the car out during rainy season because its not safe with the 426 stroker, no ABS, etc anyway.

In my case even without the wiper motor I found that some of the boots still rub in the firewall at times. So after a while I had some spark going into the chasis, had to tape those MSD boots to prevent that from happening. Just received the new boots, but the clearance is too small.

@BergmanAutoCraft
It took some fabrication. I would reach out to Peter on this one, he is able to explain it better than I can.
 

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