fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
I guess a run through the car wash and some armor all is the new "detailed" classic.http://www.gatewayclassiccars.com/detroit/1970/dodge/challenger-r/t-S461.html
Professionally detailed Challenger
- Thread starter fratzog lover
- Start date
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340duster340
Well-Known Member
i guess thats how you polish a turd! needs a lot of work.....
95teetee
Well-Known Member
I hope you never see my car.
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
I guess when I read professionally detailed, I thought they meant like, the car. But what a shaggy engine bay...
Doesn't look bad to me. Looks like it actually works and might have been driven recently. Heck of a lot cleaner than any of my engine bays, that's for darn sure. What are they supposed to do? Pull the manifolds and have them blasted and painted? Same for the master cylinder? Pull the dizzy and replace the vacuum advance can because it has some surface rust? Repaint the water pump? It looks exactly like every engine compartment of every WORKING mopar I've seen. As far as I'm concerned, that's what exhaust manifolds look like. It's definitely what any stock master cylinder looks like if the car gets driven, they look nice for a few months and then bam!- rusty.
Looks to me like most of the parts are original or oe replacement stuff. Not re-pops or Chinese knock-offs. Sure, none of it's perfect, but outside of a repaint most of that car is real Detroit iron.
I'd buy that one twice before I bought some perfectly detailed flip job. Never know what you're going to get if they're perfectly clean. Might just mean that they don't work at all. I'd rather buy a car that actually looks like it gets driven. Sure, maybe you can see that it needs a new master cylinder gasket or power steering pump cap, but you also know someone used the darn thing.
Looks to me like most of the parts are original or oe replacement stuff. Not re-pops or Chinese knock-offs. Sure, none of it's perfect, but outside of a repaint most of that car is real Detroit iron.
I'd buy that one twice before I bought some perfectly detailed flip job. Never know what you're going to get if they're perfectly clean. Might just mean that they don't work at all. I'd rather buy a car that actually looks like it gets driven. Sure, maybe you can see that it needs a new master cylinder gasket or power steering pump cap, but you also know someone used the darn thing.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
I didn't know the challenger came with a 7 inch upper radiator hose clamp :cheers:
and on a more serious note, please tell me ma mopar didn't use acorn nuts to install the steering wheel like that :banghead:
What would a concourse restored numbers Challenger go for? Close to 100K? I don't think they are out of line.
813Demon340
Well-Known Member
I can't believe they'd leave the VIN tag loose like that..
Who cares? It's a hose clamp. Maybe the local parts store was out of the right size.
Stock.
Well, they're not acorn nuts, no. But Ma mopar used 3 nuts to attach the Tuff and rim blow wheels. In fact, using those same exact 3 studs on the crush can. Yes, the stock nuts have a taper on them and fit into a countersunk hole. But since that aftermarket wheel was installed on the stock crush can using the original studs, that problem would probably take 5 minutes to fix with the right steering wheel.
But most of those things are just nit picky BS. Which is exactly the reason I don't take my cars to shows anymore. Some guy always has to tell you that you have the wrong hose clamps. Or that you used the wrong shade of argent, or that your paint color isn't original, or that there isn't factory overspray marks on the blah, blah, blah. Guys that drove their Toyota to the show, no doubt, because they sure as heck didn't drive their mopar. It might get dirty! #-o
If it's a real R/T they aren't out of line. Maybe a little bit high, but it doesn't look like a total rustbucket, so it's not crazy. Looks like the fender tag is gone, and they said it wasn't the matching 383. And it's a classic auto sales house, so it's going to be a little overpriced. That's just what they do.
Still, looks like a decent car if you wanted a real R/T to work with and don't care that it's not #'s matching.
Remember this is an online sales house. More than likely, they got the car in that condition. It's illegal to mess with the VIN tag (even to "fix" it!), so if it's been documented as being in that condition then it's better to leave it as is. Looks like the previous owner messed with it when they installed the dash cap. Still, better to have one original rivet than none. It would probably need a CHP inspection to title here in California, but I bet it would still get titled.
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Who cares? It's a hose clamp. Maybe the local parts store was out of the right size.
Stock.
Well, they're not acorn nuts, no. But Ma mopar used 3 nuts to attach the Tuff and rim blow wheels. In fact, using those same exact 3 studs on the crush can. Yes, the stock nuts have a taper on them and fit into a countersunk hole. But since that aftermarket wheel was installed on the stock crush can using the original studs, that problem would probably take 5 minutes to fix with the right steering wheel.
I don't mind they put too large a hose clamp on, but why not trim it down?
that my biggest gripe with the hose clamp, trim it and no one would have been any the wiser
as for the steering wheel
I don't know now, the acorn nuts look nice then what you posted, but he drilled holes in the steering wheel to use them AND used 3 out of the 5 stock holes (stock for the wheel, not the car)
why not just tap the studs out and use the 5 bolts from the wheel?
It looks like a pretty nice car, mostly original with a repaint. I respect the originality under the hood. What you see is what you get.
To me, professionally detailed means they paid someone to wash and vacuum the car. Looks like they need to get their money back.
The steering wheel that's on there is meant to be used with a different adaptor, not the stock crush can. The aftermarket adaptor that goes with that wheel is smaller in diameter than the crush can, so they look "wrong" when you use them.
Looks like whoever put the wheel on wanted to keep the look of the stock crush can, and I don't really blame them, the old adaptors looked pretty cheap (the ones they make now are better). So, they drilled the 3 holes in the steering wheel to mount it, and retained the holes in the wheel to mount the aftermarket horn assembly. You can't just use the original 5 holes in the wheel because they wouldn't attach to anything in the crush can, the center is open. And you can't use the stock horn assembly and button with that steering wheel.
(nuts are on backward in this pic, showing the original taper to center the wheel)
The really interesting part in of all this to me is that you jumped all over what was "wrong" with the steering wheel without even knowing what the stock wheel should look like. Let alone why that particular aftermarket one looks like it does. If you knew how the stock wheel mounted, you'd know exactly why it looks like it does.
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
I just thought it was funny, thats all. I saw the description, and when I clicked on it I was a little underwhelmed at the pics versus the description. I was guessing maybe cleaning and touching up the hvac controls, etc. they sure used enough armor all however.
When I lived in So Cal, I had no idea how good I had it with respect to car washes and detailing shops. The first car I ever got detailed, I didn't even recognize it when I went to pick it up..."Hey, that guy has the same surf racks as me! Wait a sec...that IS me!" We moved to Tucson, and I got my wife's car 'detailed'. They called me to pick itup, and it wasn't even a good wash. I told the guy, 'grab a rag and follow me', and showed him 6 places, just under the trunk lid that hadn't even been cleaned...told him, "call me when you detail it." Amazing the different standards - So Cal has more 'car culture' than Southern AZ, I guess.
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
SoCal is where the car culture was born. Along with all the aftermarket and speed shops.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
I think they should at least fix the VIN plate.
Based on what? The loose VIN tag?
The door sticker matches the dash tag, there appears to be original yellow paint underneath it and you can see where it was taped over for the repaint. Sure, the doors could have been swapped, but a quick look at the VIN stamped on the cowl and/or radiator support will solve that. Just ask the seller for pictures of the VIN on the cowl, you can see there are numbers stamped on it in a couple of the engine bay pictures.
If I were buying it I'd definitely confirm the rest of the numbers, but I do that on EVERY car I buy. I don't see any reason to jump to conclusions.
There are legal problems with "fixing" the VIN plate. As in, it's illegal. Just like tampering with it to begin with. Like I said earlier, I'd rather have an original VIN held on by one original rivet than one that was fixed illegally.
What I don't understand is why everyone is bashing this car. If you can't afford it, who cares? Sure, it has some issues, they ALL do. Yours does, mine do, none of them are perfect. And it's obviously being sold by a gigantic classic auto sales house, so the back story on the car is missing and the price may be a bit high considering some of the issues. But why bash the car? Or the seller?
If you want to buy it, confirm the rest of the documentation to prove it really is a '70 R/T (a desirable car!), fix a few minor details, and move on. Or actually prove it's a fake that needs a ton of work being flipped for a huge profit and is really a buyer beware situation.
chryslerfat
Well-Known Member
Not bashing it if I had the money I would buy it before I would buy a perfect restored one. This is a nice driver but knowing how Mopar people are the VIN with one rivet would hinder me selling it at a later date.
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