Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Members Restorations

  1. dibbons

    dibbons Well-Known Member

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    I lucked out. The clear lenses on the vehicle were completely broken out. But I found a complete new pair of everything in the trunk when I purchased the vehicle (the extra pieces had that wrecking yard yellow paint that spelled "65 Barracuda"). So far, I have not noticed any damage to any of the metal pieces from either set.

    My efforts on the lenses did not eliminate the "crazing" but at least they are cleaned up some.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2021
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    • dibbons

      dibbons Well-Known Member

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      Update: Installed front and rear exterior lights and grille (not painted body color, went with SEM trim black). On the front valence, I put some rubber "washers" over the holes before setting the parking light frames and grille down on top. Granted, not the best idea for establishing an electrical ground.

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      Last edited: Oct 9, 2021
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      • dibbons

        dibbons Well-Known Member

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        After the front parking lights were assembled in the frames, I shot one coat of Rust-Oleum clear on the backside of the chrome pot-metal light housings. I had previously cleaned them up somewhat and figured this might help keep 'em clean. The area behind the front parking lamps should be black (saving that for another day).

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        • dibbons

          dibbons Well-Known Member

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          Could not find the screws to attach the rear tail light and reverse light lenses. I ended cutting down some #8 wood screws. For the reverse light lenses, I used the gaskets that came with the repro lenses (black in photo) which were a little smaller/better fit than the slightly larger/thicker DMT gaskets. I had to use nuts and washers for the tail light housings, still searching around here for the mis-placed nuts with captured washers the factory used.

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          • dibbons

            dibbons Well-Known Member

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            Progress:

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            • 65 Dartman

              65 Dartman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              If I wasn’t using the roof rack on my wagon i was going to add those stripes
               
            • Garethw

              Garethw Mopar. Because rocket science is too easy. FABO Gold Member

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              Looking nice! I’m sure it’s satisfying to put final pieces on.
               
            • 89on35s

              89on35s Inferno Red Duster FABO Gold Member

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              Looking good!

              Cley
               
            • dibbons

              dibbons Well-Known Member

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              Update: Almost finished re-installing the 2 1/2 inch TTI exhaust system (now about ten years old) supplied with DynoMax mufflers. I see a minor problem on the driver's side which is the rubber brake line from the differential is touching the tail pipe. I am wondering if there is a longer rubber brake line available? That way I could probably snake it on away from the exhaust.

              Part of the clearance problem may be the 8 3/4 (489 case) differential a previous owner installed. I noticed when I disassembled the exhaust 3 years ago, the hollow bolt for the differential vent was missing and the brake line juncture "Y" was floating in the air (may be how the rubber brake line avoided contact in the past). In the third photo (sorry--out of focus) one can see the rubber brake line leaning against the tail pipe with the pinion snubber in the background.



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              • dibbons

                dibbons Well-Known Member

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                On the passenger side there is only about the thickness of one or two sheets of paper of clearance between the tail pipe and the threaded portion of the "J" hook that retains the fuel tank strap. First photo taken from below, second photo taken from above. Otherwise, I don't see and clearance issues.

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                • dibbons

                  dibbons Well-Known Member

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                  Update: Re: Post #234 where the rear flexible brake line was up against the TTI tail pipe. I installed a 16 inch "DoctorDiff" stainless steel line and was able to eke out about an inch of clearance from the exhaust.

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                  • Ogre Backwash

                    Ogre Backwash Well-Known Member

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                    You have to respect the original Detroit engineers who got everything to fit together when these cars were manufactured. It's an underrated skill. Thanks for the tip on the stainless line.
                     
                  • Hyper_pak

                    Hyper_pak Old School Chrysler Fan

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                    Are you going to black out the radiator support?
                    The area behind the grill?
                     
                  • dibbons

                    dibbons Well-Known Member

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                    Eventually, yes it should be blacked out.
                     
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                    • Keith Mopar

                      Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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                      Thanks for the tip on the brake line. I have this same problem but put a small bend in the bracket that hold the line where it attaches to the car to gain a little extra clearance. I think I'm going to go the way you did and get the Dr diff line.

                      Thanks.
                       
                    • str12-340

                      str12-340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Now that you have the extra line length, can you loosen the vent bolt and turn the stiff metal part of the line away from the pipe?

                      I really enjoy following your build!
                       
                    • dibbons

                      dibbons Well-Known Member

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                      That's what I did to some extent, bent up the metal brake lines a little in the process.
                       
                    • dibbons

                      dibbons Well-Known Member

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                      I need to drive the vehicle about 10 miles over to the glass shop where the original "green house" rear window and new windshield await us. Actually want someone to come by first and install the headliner.

                      Did some "roadworthy" checking out before the drive planned for Sunday morning. Findings:
                      Replaced the Champion spark plugs (RN14YC) which were dry but sooty black with Autolite #66 (Mexican AutoZone did not stock the Champion) Gap .035"

                      Initial timing with vacuum advance hose disconnected: 10 degrees BTDC. (same reading with hose connected to front port of AFB). Vacuum advance definitely kicks in as soon as throttle is opened.

                      Adjusted AFB air valve and idle mixture screws to obtain hot idle speed in neutral of approx. 550 RPM (digital read on multimeter varies 550 - 580). Throttle response in neutral seems crisp. I see one website rated this factory AFB at 480 CFM.

                      Dwell reading 27.5 degrees with the single-point distributor (a little low but close enough).

                      Warm engine readings: 48 PSI oil pressure @ idle and 195 degrees coolant temperature.

                      ATF fluid at the full mark idling in "neutral" and a definite slow drip below the flex plate/torque convertor. A less worrisome drop of ATF fluid at the Torqueflite tail shaft seal (has the bolt on driveshaft set-up, not the later slip in style).

                      Crankcase oil (20W-50 Castrol) just a hair above the full line).

                      Both valve covers just beginning to leak at the center bottom bolt hole. All five bolts gingerly re-tightened using a 1/4" drive ratchet (or 7/16" combination wrench for the driver's side rearmost bolt). I had some valve cover spreader washers, but they didn't work (I forget if they didn't fit or if the factory bolts were too short).

                      Two gallons of gasoline added (factory gauges not operating). Odometer 83,787 (no speedo cable, therefore no odometer readings for now).

                      No visible brake fluid leaks (single master cylinder for now). Power brakes work (but missing a hose-installed check valve).

                      There is a slight exhaust leak at the TTI "H" pipe connection. This was previously torn apart going over a high speed bump years ago. I decided not to tighten the clamp any further in case we need to remove exhaust to repair ATF leaks, etc. Part of the reason the "H" pipe snagged on the speed bump is because the shop that installed the clamp had the clamp threaded ends pointing straight down which reduced the clearance. I have re-installed them at a different angle to avoid a repeat incident.

                      Power steering OK. Horns and lights OK. (windshield wiper motor and heater/AC box not installed). One bucket seat installed (need seat belt). Need to install rear view mirror. Registration expired 3 years ago.

                      Tires look a little low, but no air compressor onsite.
                       
                      Last edited: Dec 2, 2021
                    • dibbons

                      dibbons Well-Known Member

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                      Internet table of 1965 tune-up specs (I can't vouch for accuracy):

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                    • str12-340

                      str12-340 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Those J plugs for a 318 is for a 318 poly - not a 318LA
                       
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                      • dibbons

                        dibbons Well-Known Member

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                        Update: While waiting for upholstery team to come by and install the headliner, I re-installed the dash pad (should have done that together with the dash frame). It took some doing and the fact that the tachometer was not installed yet helped out a little bit on the fastener on the far driver's side.

                        The small pieces on the corner of the dash pad are lost/missing. The color-matched plastic strip (gold) that hides the dash frame fasteners beneath the windshield glass is warped and snapped in two (will do without it for now).

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                      • dibbons

                        dibbons Well-Known Member

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                        Update: Repaired the A-pillar interior moldings with two-part epoxy. Then after I was done, I ended up cracking one side test-fitting and broke off a corner on the other side when I bumped it a little too hard. My plastic paint on hand was white, so they won't be the camel/gold color as the rest of the interior (for the time being anyway). I used metal window screen to re-enforce the epoxy.

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                        • dibbons

                          dibbons Well-Known Member

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                          The odd-shaped plastic corner moldings in the trunk were damaged on the side where the holes for the fasteners on one side are very close to the edge of the plastic. Repaired those as best I could and painted them trim black for now (were originally gold to match the carpet, moldings, and interior fabric).

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