Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Members Restorations

  1. dibbons

    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I have to thank MoparLeo for rebuilding my factory door hinges.

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    • dibbons

      dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      As good as it gets after hours and hours of door alignment. Things are just a little "wavy" for some reason. Photos in order:
      Pass Door handle/quarter gap.
      Pass Door below handle/quarter gap.
      Pass Door/top of fender gap.
      Pass Door/bottom of fender gap.
      Pass Door/fender/cowl junction gaps.
      Pass Door on right/Quarter Panel on left (looking from above).

      Pass Door handleJPG.JPG

      Pass Door below handle.JPG

      Pass Door top of fender.JPG

      Pass Door bottom of fender.JPG

      Pass Door Fender Cowl.JPG

      Pass Door on right Q panel on left.JPG
       
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      • dibbons

        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Driver Door handle/quarter gap.
        Driver Door below handle/quarter gap.
        Driver Door/top of fender gap.
        Driver Door/bottom of fender gap.
        Driver Door/fender/cowl junction gaps.
        Driver Door on right/Quarter Panel on left (looking from above).

        Driver Door handle.JPG

        Driver Door below handle.JPG

        Driver Door top of fender.JPG

        Driver Door bottom of fender.JPG

        Driver Door Fender Cowl.JPG

        Driver Door on left Q panel on right.JPG
         
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        • dibbons

          dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Both doors are closing just a little too far. Although top and bottom look about right, center of door looks to be "caved in" just a little. Three photos taken from top to bottom. The second photo shows how the door is curved in when compared to the quarter panel behind it. Both doors exhibit the same anomaly.

          After adjusting the doors to close a little bit less, the difference was less prominent, but still present. Might have to live with it for now. Photos are taken before adjusting door to close less.

          Driver door top.JPG

          Driver door center.JPG

          Driver door bottom.JPG
           
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          • dibbons

            dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Update: Rallye Wheels. I posted this on another thread some time ago, but should be here in the restoration story. I only have one center section and one trim ring, so those items will be omitted for the time being. Used Duplicolor Wheel Paint "Graphite" and RustOleum Primers. Before and After:

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            graphite.jpeg

            Rallye wheel center.JPG
             
          • dibbons

            dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            The process:

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            • dibbons

              dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Tried to make the option characters on the fender tag jump out at you. Removed the rust and painted it white, then painted it yellow. Used 2000 grit wet/dry over a small straw-like plastic tube to carefully sand the yellow from the numbers. I knew it would be a challenge. At least it's not rusty any longer. Results so far not so great:

              Barracuda Fender Tag.JPG
               
              Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
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              • dibbons

                dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Might as well decode the fender tag while we are at it:

                Drivers side manual mirror, variable windshield wipers, 273 four-barrel, Formula "S" package, 904 Torqueflite, air conditioning/heater, power brakes, AM radio, tachometer, back-up lights, retractable seat belts (front & rear), console, premium vinyl bucket seats (gold), January 15, 1965 production date, white mono body, gold metallic upper door panels. The vehicle also has a padded dash, wheel well moulding, and power brakes not specified on the fender tag. The Torqueflite is the correct model/year.

                When I purchased the vehicle it had some upgrades/changes: circa 1980 318 cylinder block (318 oil pan rubs on the steering link), correct 273 AFB on a factory 1966 four-barrel intake manifold and correct 273 wrinkle-finish valve covers , correct chrome air cleaner; a passenger side outside mirror, an 8 3/4 differential (open 2.93), rallye wheels, black front and rear seats (build sheet from another vehicle under rear seat), black door panels, missing radio, missing most A/C parts, missing shroud (if it had one), missing bumper jack. I converted the ball and trunnion driveshaft to conventional joint and added a complete TTI 2 1/2 inch exhaust system with the Dynomax mufflers (no X/Y tube). A local shop rebuilt the stock radiator and a local speed shop owner rebuilt the AFB.

                The 318 had a hole burned right through one piston when I purchased the vehicle. A local California machine shop performed the stock rebuild for me. Engine idles as steadily as I have ever seen one idle. The machinist painted the black, finned 273 valve covers blue, however, as you can see in post #26.
                 
                Last edited: Jul 21, 2020
              • dibbons

                dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Hood alignment-took some doing experimenting with fender shims placed at rear underhood fender bolts and front underhood fender bolts (not perfect, but good enough for now):

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                Barracuda hood line6.JPG
                 
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                • 89on35s

                  89on35s Inferno Red Duster FABO Gold Member

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                  Looks good from here!

                  Cley
                   
                • ndeconte

                  ndeconte Well-Known Member

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                  very cool! Nice progress!
                   
                • dibbons

                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Time to restore the Commando valve covers from their current state of abomination; will be returning to the factory-style finish.

                  Commando valve covers blue.JPG
                   
                  Last edited: Jul 31, 2020
                • JDMopar

                  JDMopar Well-Known Member

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                  I've heard of 2 different ways of getting the aluminum trim off the valve covers. 1 is to soak the valve cover in lacquer thinner to loosen the glue, which makes them easy to gently pry off without bending them. 2 is to bolt the valve cover to the head so it can't move, and then take a length of welding wire or thin steel wire and work it back and forth from one end to the other to cut the glue. A combination of the 2 may work well also. Don't bend the fins! LOL
                   
                • dibbons

                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Heat gun from inside is sometimes suggested. Frankly, I don't plan on removing the fins, going to work around them. Good enough for government work, as they say.
                   
                • MOPAR4Me

                  MOPAR4Me FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  14EF11F9-8760-4F9A-8923-EF41AF2E085D.jpeg Great job, don’t know how I had previously missed your build thread. Thanks for sharing your journey and the detailed write-ups.

                  I did notice something that I wanted to mention, that is that I am fairly certain your hinge retaining push nuts are reversed.

                  The prongs should be pointing out so they dig into the shaft, preventing them and in turn the hinges from sliding out.

                  Those often don’t work well after being compromised during removal. Your best bet is getting some new ones.

                  Also sometimes the shaft gets rounded off on the end and is either not long or square enough for the nit prongs to grab onto.

                  If this is your case, or you just want to ditch the factory design or having to buy new ones, you can just use standard washers held in by drilling a hole on the shaft for a cotter pin.
                   
                  Last edited: Jul 31, 2020
                • dibbons

                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Thank you and you are correct! While adjusting the hood over to the side to adjust the gap recently, the push nut flew off and I figured out it was reversed. Need new ones, not available locally so I will just have to have some mailed to me some day.
                   
                • dibbons

                  dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Follow up to valve cover post #112. Did not want to abuse the parts sandblasting (a close neighbor has a shop nearby who can do it), so resorted to "elbow grease".

                  Going to replace the blue 318 motor with a red one. Well, same rebuilt motor, but with correct '65 colors. On the Commando valve covers, used the spray-on Graffiti remover and lacquer thinner, toothbrush, paper towel, and sponge-backed sanding pad to remove the old paint (photos #1 & #2).

                  The 318 oil pan will be replaced with what I believe is a more correctly shaped pan that was covered in surface rust while in storage (photo #3). Used electric drill, wire wheels, sand paper, scratch pad, oven cleaner, Naval jelly, liquid silicone remover (did NOT melt off the blue silicone), and a coat of Ospho so far (photo #4).

                  goof off valve cover.JPG

                  valve covers stripped.JPG

                  oil pan 4.JPG

                  oil pan Ospho.JPG
                   
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                  • dibbons

                    dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    First coat of Navel Jelly and water rinse. Need to touch-up with a second coat of Navel Jelly in a few stubborn/missed spots. Used a hair dryer to ward off more surface rust.

                    Valve Cover Naval Jelly.JPG
                     
                    Last edited: Aug 9, 2020
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                    • dibbons

                      dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      I was lucky and only had one bolt hole that split open which required a brass "fill" (photos one and two). The welder hit and tapped the valve cover quite a few times when I handed it to him. Maybe he found it hard to believe it was sheet metal and not plastic?

                      Third photo shows a fresh coat of Ospho; when dry it will be "show time" with the VHT wrinkle-finish black. I decided not to use primer under the wrinkle paint.

                      Valve Cover repair 1.JPG

                      Valve Cover repair 2.JPG

                      Valve Covers with Ospho.JPG
                       
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                      • dibbons

                        dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        After removing some black powdery film leftover from the Ospho with a scratch pad, I passed a vacuum over the surfaces and then wiped them off one last time with a blue prep paper towel.

                        Then painted three coats VHT in the shade this afternoon when ambient temperature was about 95 degrees and humidity b/t 35% and 40%. I did not follow instructions calling for horizontal, then vertical, then diagonal spray patterns (changing for each subsequent coat). Just sprayed the coats best I could while holding the breather/pcv tubes in the air with a gloved hand.

                        I did wait the recommended 5 minutes between coats. The paint began to "wrinkle" after applying the second coat and before applying the last coat. The valve covers were set in the direct sunlight to dry. I did not speed things up using a heat gun or hair dryer. Photo below is about four hours after painting, after having removed the masking tape. I used one 11 oz. can, and had some left over, not much though.

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                        wrinkle paint 1.JPG
                         
                        Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
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                        • dibbons

                          dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          After the Ospho dried on the "394" oil pan I am restoring, I used a scratch pad on the main body (compare before and after photo #1) and a wire wheel on the outside flange (photo #2) to prepare for the black coat of RustOleum rust reformer (see can in photo #3). Final clean-up the dust with vacuum cleaner. Ready for color coat now (photo #4).

                          oil pan 11.JPG

                          oil pan 8.JPG

                          oil pan 7.JPG

                          oil pan 15.JPG
                           
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                          • sireland67

                            sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            Ospho is good stuff.
                            I always keep a qt or so around the shop.
                             
                          • dibbons

                            dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            Drug the 318 out of the back of the garage to repaint it the correct red. (I still have the commando AFB, intake manifold, chrome air cleaner, finned valve covers, original A904). Not sure how much disassembly is required. Already plan on swapping oil pan and re-installing the wrinkle-finish valve covers. I have a gasket set handy, in case I want to pull the water pump out of the way. I'll have to think about it before I jump in. A lot of prep work for now (degreasing). It received a stock rebuild about 10 years ago and runs fine. The block is from a 1980 year model with a casting date of December 1979 (engine built at Mound Road and vehicle assembled Lynch Road).

                            unpainted 318.JPG

                            318 serial number.JPG

                            318 codes 1.JPG

                            318 codes 5.JPG

                            318 codes 4.JPG
                             
                            Last edited: Aug 31, 2020
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                            • dibbons

                              dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              The 489 case 8 3/4" open differential was primed (gray) and painted (black?).

                              painted differential.JPG
                               
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                              • dibbons

                                dibbons FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                Local suspension shop added a leaf to the stock Formula S springs ( we now have 7 leaves). They did not paint 'em, so I cleaned them up, coated once with Ospho, and then a final dusting of RustOleum Rust Convertor (black).

                                leaf spring number.JPG

                                leaf spring 2.JPG

                                leaf spring unpainted 1.JPG

                                leaf spring rust reform 1.JPG
                                 
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