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I have to thank MoparLeo for rebuilding my factory door hinges.
As good as it gets after hours and hours of door alignment. Things are just a little "wavy" for some reason. Photos in order: Pass Door handle/quarter gap. Pass Door below handle/quarter gap. Pass Door/top of fender gap. Pass Door/bottom of fender gap. Pass Door/fender/cowl junction gaps. Pass Door on right/Quarter Panel on left (looking from above).
Driver Door handle/quarter gap. Driver Door below handle/quarter gap. Driver Door/top of fender gap. Driver Door/bottom of fender gap. Driver Door/fender/cowl junction gaps. Driver Door on right/Quarter Panel on left (looking from above).
Both doors are closing just a little too far. Although top and bottom look about right, center of door looks to be "caved in" just a little. Three photos taken from top to bottom. The second photo shows how the door is curved in when compared to the quarter panel behind it. Both doors exhibit the same anomaly. After adjusting the doors to close a little bit less, the difference was less prominent, but still present. Might have to live with it for now. Photos are taken before adjusting door to close less.
Update: Rallye Wheels. I posted this on another thread some time ago, but should be here in the restoration story. I only have one center section and one trim ring, so those items will be omitted for the time being. Used Duplicolor Wheel Paint "Graphite" and RustOleum Primers. Before and After:
Tried to make the option characters on the fender tag jump out at you. Removed the rust and painted it white, then painted it yellow. Used 2000 grit wet/dry over a small straw-like plastic tube to carefully sand the yellow from the numbers. I knew it would be a challenge. At least it's not rusty any longer. Results so far not so great:
Might as well decode the fender tag while we are at it: Drivers side manual mirror, variable windshield wipers, 273 four-barrel, Formula "S" package, 904 Torqueflite, air conditioning/heater, power brakes, AM radio, tachometer, back-up lights, retractable seat belts (front & rear), console, premium vinyl bucket seats (gold), January 15, 1965 production date, white mono body, gold metallic upper door panels. The vehicle also has a padded dash, wheel well moulding, and power brakes not specified on the fender tag. The Torqueflite is the correct model/year. When I purchased the vehicle it had some upgrades/changes: circa 1980 318 cylinder block (318 oil pan rubs on the steering link), correct 273 AFB on a factory 1966 four-barrel intake manifold and correct 273 wrinkle-finish valve covers , correct chrome air cleaner; a passenger side outside mirror, an 8 3/4 differential (open 2.93), rallye wheels, black front and rear seats (build sheet from another vehicle under rear seat), black door panels, missing radio, missing most A/C parts, missing shroud (if it had one), missing bumper jack. I converted the ball and trunnion driveshaft to conventional joint and added a complete TTI 2 1/2 inch exhaust system with the Dynomax mufflers (no X/Y tube). A local shop rebuilt the stock radiator and a local speed shop owner rebuilt the AFB. The 318 had a hole burned right through one piston when I purchased the vehicle. A local California machine shop performed the stock rebuild for me. Engine idles as steadily as I have ever seen one idle. The machinist painted the black, finned 273 valve covers blue, however, as you can see in post #26.
Hood alignment-took some doing experimenting with fender shims placed at rear underhood fender bolts and front underhood fender bolts (not perfect, but good enough for now):
Looks good from here! Cley
very cool! Nice progress!
Time to restore the Commando valve covers from their current state of abomination; will be returning to the factory-style finish.
I've heard of 2 different ways of getting the aluminum trim off the valve covers. 1 is to soak the valve cover in lacquer thinner to loosen the glue, which makes them easy to gently pry off without bending them. 2 is to bolt the valve cover to the head so it can't move, and then take a length of welding wire or thin steel wire and work it back and forth from one end to the other to cut the glue. A combination of the 2 may work well also. Don't bend the fins! LOL
Heat gun from inside is sometimes suggested. Frankly, I don't plan on removing the fins, going to work around them. Good enough for government work, as they say.
Great job, don’t know how I had previously missed your build thread. Thanks for sharing your journey and the detailed write-ups. I did notice something that I wanted to mention, that is that I am fairly certain your hinge retaining push nuts are reversed. The prongs should be pointing out so they dig into the shaft, preventing them and in turn the hinges from sliding out. Those often don’t work well after being compromised during removal. Your best bet is getting some new ones. Also sometimes the shaft gets rounded off on the end and is either not long or square enough for the nit prongs to grab onto. If this is your case, or you just want to ditch the factory design or having to buy new ones, you can just use standard washers held in by drilling a hole on the shaft for a cotter pin.
Thank you and you are correct! While adjusting the hood over to the side to adjust the gap recently, the push nut flew off and I figured out it was reversed. Need new ones, not available locally so I will just have to have some mailed to me some day.
Follow up to valve cover post #112. Did not want to abuse the parts sandblasting (a close neighbor has a shop nearby who can do it), so resorted to "elbow grease". Going to replace the blue 318 motor with a red one. Well, same rebuilt motor, but with correct '65 colors. On the Commando valve covers, used the spray-on Graffiti remover and lacquer thinner, toothbrush, paper towel, and sponge-backed sanding pad to remove the old paint (photos #1 & #2). The 318 oil pan will be replaced with what I believe is a more correctly shaped pan that was covered in surface rust while in storage (photo #3). Used electric drill, wire wheels, sand paper, scratch pad, oven cleaner, Naval jelly, liquid silicone remover (did NOT melt off the blue silicone), and a coat of Ospho so far (photo #4).
First coat of Navel Jelly and water rinse. Need to touch-up with a second coat of Navel Jelly in a few stubborn/missed spots. Used a hair dryer to ward off more surface rust.
I was lucky and only had one bolt hole that split open which required a brass "fill" (photos one and two). The welder hit and tapped the valve cover quite a few times when I handed it to him. Maybe he found it hard to believe it was sheet metal and not plastic? Third photo shows a fresh coat of Ospho; when dry it will be "show time" with the VHT wrinkle-finish black. I decided not to use primer under the wrinkle paint.
After removing some black powdery film leftover from the Ospho with a scratch pad, I passed a vacuum over the surfaces and then wiped them off one last time with a blue prep paper towel. Then painted three coats VHT in the shade this afternoon when ambient temperature was about 95 degrees and humidity b/t 35% and 40%. I did not follow instructions calling for horizontal, then vertical, then diagonal spray patterns (changing for each subsequent coat). Just sprayed the coats best I could while holding the breather/pcv tubes in the air with a gloved hand. I did wait the recommended 5 minutes between coats. The paint began to "wrinkle" after applying the second coat and before applying the last coat. The valve covers were set in the direct sunlight to dry. I did not speed things up using a heat gun or hair dryer. Photo below is about four hours after painting, after having removed the masking tape. I used one 11 oz. can, and had some left over, not much though.
After the Ospho dried on the "394" oil pan I am restoring, I used a scratch pad on the main body (compare before and after photo #1) and a wire wheel on the outside flange (photo #2) to prepare for the black coat of RustOleum rust reformer (see can in photo #3). Final clean-up the dust with vacuum cleaner. Ready for color coat now (photo #4).
Ospho is good stuff. I always keep a qt or so around the shop.
Drug the 318 out of the back of the garage to repaint it the correct red. (I still have the commando AFB, intake manifold, chrome air cleaner, finned valve covers, original A904). Not sure how much disassembly is required. Already plan on swapping oil pan and re-installing the wrinkle-finish valve covers. I have a gasket set handy, in case I want to pull the water pump out of the way. I'll have to think about it before I jump in. A lot of prep work for now (degreasing). It received a stock rebuild about 10 years ago and runs fine. The block is from a 1980 year model with a casting date of December 1979 (engine built at Mound Road and vehicle assembled Lynch Road).
The 489 case 8 3/4" open differential was primed (gray) and painted (black?).
Local suspension shop added a leaf to the stock Formula S springs ( we now have 7 leaves). They did not paint 'em, so I cleaned them up, coated once with Ospho, and then a final dusting of RustOleum Rust Convertor (black).