Project "Chihuahua" '65 Formula S Restoration "Estilo Mexicano"

Members Restorations

  1. Keith Mopar

    Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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    I would not try to fit the dress up chrome cover on without disassembling the filler tube as forcing it over the filler tube as it would not go back to shape.

    But progress looks great!
     
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    • dibbons

      dibbons Well-Known Member

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      Update: Speedo cable. In the end, for now the speedo cable will only serve to plug the transmission opening. I tried to replace the snapped inner cable with a repair kit, but it was so "mickey mouse" that the speedometer end that I attached after cutting the cable is not perfectly straight and that wobble may mess up the dash instrument. I used some thin diameter stainless steel wire in a couple of places to tie the cable away from the fat TTI 2.5" head pipe.

      speedo gear at trans.JPG

      speedo cable tie 3.JPG

      speedo cable 1.JPG

      speedo cable tie.JPG
       
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      • dibbons

        dibbons Well-Known Member

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        Update: Driver's side exhaust manifold braces (that most times we find missing). I fabricated one piece from hollow tubing and the other from flat stock. (I found one similar piece in a storage box that seemed correct, but it was just a little off and would not fit exactly). A forum member gave me the approximate dimensions of both parts.

        When I went to install the starter after having already installed these pieces, I found the upper starter bolt almost would not clear the brace that fits into the engine block (see photo #1). I must have something arranged a little differently than factory (or else the head of the factory bolts are smaller). I could not fit a socket or box end wrench on this starter bolt I was just about to shorten a Craftsman 5/8" combination end wrench before finding a "mini" adjustable end wrench in my wife's tiny tool box. See starter installation below for more:

        exhaust brace 7.JPG

        exhaust brace 8.JPG

        exhaust brace 9.JPG
         
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        • dibbons

          dibbons Well-Known Member

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          Update: 904 Torque-flite control cables installation. When I removed it, I found the factory parking sprawl cable was melted from contact with the 2.5" TTI driver's side head pipe. I slipped on an orange heat-resistant silicone sleeve and then tied the cable up and away from the head pipe using three rubber insulated clamps. I drilled a hole in the floorboard to secure the single clamp and the dual clamps used the factory accelerator pedal mounting hardware. The shift cable is secured by a clamp attached together with the upper starter bolt (not shown).

          Parking P clamp 3.JPG

          Parking P clamp 1.JPG

          Parking P clamp 2.JPG
           
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          • dibbons

            dibbons Well-Known Member

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            Update: Starter. I turned the wheels all the way to the left to accommodate the raising of the heavy starter motor into position. At first it seemed there was not enough room to get it where it needed to be, but with some additional jiggling it finally made it inside. I used a stud and star lock washer on the bottom and a bolt with captive washer on the top. The top bolt also included a little clamp to hold the Torque-flite shift cable steady.

            I was not happy with how close the starter wires ended up to the exhaust. It seems if I bent the terminal ends either 45 or 90 degrees it would have routed the wires a little further away. I did not try that because I did not want to metal fatigue the metal and I wanted to find out what angle the factory used on these wires before moving things around.

            Like I mentioned above in the exhaust manifold brace installation, after snugging it by hand, I could only get a "mini" open end wrench on the upper starter bolt because of interference caused by one of the manifold braces. The clearance between the head of the starter bolt and the longer brace is the same thickness as a thin slice of cardboard.

            left front tire.JPG

            starter stud 2.JPG

            starter stud.JPG

            starter wires 6.JPG

            starter wires 4.JPG

            tools 1.JPG
             
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            • dibbons

              dibbons Well-Known Member

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              Update: Head pipes (TTI 2.5"). I shimmed the passenger side motor mount 1/4" so that the passenger side pipe (photo #1) would clear the torsion bar (previously the TTI system was installed by another mechanic without shimming). The modified crossmember was done by TTI for me.

              And I moved the transmission parking sprag cable slightly on the driver's side to prevent a repeat of melting the the cable a second time. Things are pretty tight but nothing is touching for now. I decided to re-fire the motor with just the head pipes installed. I can work the mufflers and other pipes on later. (photos #2,#3,#4,#5).

              The 318 motor had a stock rebuild about ten years ago, but it has not run in about three years.

              pass head pipe 1.JPG

              drv head pipe 1.JPG

              driver head pipe 4.JPG

              drv head pipe 3.JPG

              head pipe from above.JPG
               
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              • 65 Dartman

                65 Dartman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                I think I had to remove that brace in order to easily access the starter on my 65 Dart. Keep up the good work!
                 
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                • dibbons

                  dibbons Well-Known Member

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                  Update: Power steering. It seems the power steering pump may not be original to the vehicle. A previous owner used a plastic reducer on the low pressure hose to get it back to 3/8".

                  power steering return 1.JPG
                   
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                  • 65 Dartman

                    65 Dartman FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    OEM low pressure hose was 5/8th from pump to the box. I believe the 66 changed sizes of both to 3/8th
                     
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                    • sireland67

                      sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      The cable will leak fluid out the other end, just buy a soft plug the right diameter, the ones used on engines coolant to plug the hole.
                       
                    • dibbons

                      dibbons Well-Known Member

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                      With the inner cable inserted it will leak? Or if the inner cable is inserted and left off the speedo end will it work its way out?
                       
                    • sireland67

                      sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Left off the speedo, I had one leak out the end of the cable on my 65 Coronet.
                       
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                      • mygasser

                        mygasser FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        shouldn't the 'o' rings at the gearbox end of the cable and speedo drive gear 'holder' seal the cable from trans fluid?
                         
                      • dibbons

                        dibbons Well-Known Member

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                        Re-installed the shocks, this time with the shock extensions to compensate for the added ride height after having adding the full leaf to both sides of the rear suspension. I always wondered if the factory shock washers were originally concave or if they were flat and just got bent that way?

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                        • sireland67

                          sireland67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          • dibbons

                            dibbons Well-Known Member

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                            Update: Parking Brake Conversion. Went to a single cable on the driver's side that later ABodies employed from the factory, in part because the TTI exhaust on the passenger side interferes with that passenger side cable somewhat.

                            What was normally a two minute job turned into a two hour job--installing the two spring clips that secure the two rearmost parking brake cables in the bracket that is welded to the underbody. The smaller clips in the conversion kit (photo #1) would not pass over the slot in the cable, no matter how much pounding or pressing or pushing I enabled. The larger original factory clips where almost as stubborn, but I was stubborn even over and above them (photo #2).

                            I can't explain the difficult installation problem; in the past a tap with a hammer or using leverage of a longer flat blade screwdriver usually coerced the clips to slide into the spot they belong.

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                            • dibbons

                              dibbons Well-Known Member

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                              Then the parking brake cable adjusting nut (I guess its an interference fit) took the power of Hercules to get any spin (even with a little anti-seize). Trying to secure/hold the little square area on the cable with a tiny 1/4 combination wrench to tighten the nut was going to make this an all day ordeal. So I brought out some spacers temporarily and slipped them on the front cable with the darn uncooperative locknut just to keep the cables off the ground.

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                              Last edited: Sep 24, 2021
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                              • dibbons

                                dibbons Well-Known Member

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                                Now for under the dash parking brake parts. I see my bag of fasteners for the handle hardware is missing the spring and the little clamp/bolt that secures the outside sheath of the cable to the underdash bracket. You can see in the photo the 90 degree bracket with a small hole in it to accommodate a return spring.

                                I don't remember ever seeing or removing that spring (of course, disassembly took place more than 3 years ago). In the photo, the parking brake cable is shown on the wrong side of the bracket (it is secured by the missing part on the inside of the bracket, in other words closer to the center of the vehicle).

                                P.S. Found the spring, parking brake functions now. Replaced the plastic handle that had bent and was ready to break away (the repro is looser on the stem of the handle tube but I suppose the pin will keep it firm and steady).

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                                Last edited: Dec 1, 2021 at 6:27 PM
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                                • dibbons

                                  dibbons Well-Known Member

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                                  Update: Engine up and running. Now for some good news, the factory 273 Formula S Carter AFB was able to fire up the current 318 without having been rebuilt (again). Choke is wired open (don't have the choke thermostat). Only head pipes installed for now (no x-pipe, mufflers, nor tail pipes). Cold oil pressure is 60-65 PSI (mechanical gauge). With 180 degree thermostat, coolant warms up to 210 while idling at standstill (mechanical gauge). The one-wire alternator is charging 14-plus volts with the old factory style voltage regulator (alternator amp capacity unknown). The single-point distributor provides 10 degrees advance at idle speed. Pumping the accelerator pedal two or three times provides an immediate start-up.

                                  Problems found prior to and after initial fire-up to the previously rebuilt 318 that has been in "storage" for the past three years during the restoration process:

                                  1) Oil pan drain plug dripped slightly after filling the crankcase with oil (Castrol 20W-50). Re-tightened plug. Note: The oil pan was replaced prior to engine installation because the later version 318 oil pan that had been used previously was interfering with the steering link.

                                  2) When I filled the now rebuilt torque flight with fluid for the first time, ATF began to drip (but very slowly) from the very end of the tail shaft where the ball & trunnion driveshaft bolts up. I purchased a new seal (not installed yet).

                                  3) The starter could only be activated with a remote switch connected to the solenoid. The ignition key would not function. No power found under dash past the ammeter. Bypassed the ammeter by securing both ammeter wires together and everything began to work again.

                                  4) Engine could only be started in "park" and not in "neutral". I had to adjust the floor shift selector cable quite a bit to find the correct adjustment.

                                  5) Engine would only run by priming carb. Needed to replace the used mechanical fuel pump (that I had cleaned and painted up nicely).

                                  6) The large 1 3/16th bolt that secures the 90 degree oil filter adaptor was dripping engine oil. Tightening the bolt once with a correct size combination wrench I purchased (cost about twenty bucks) did not stop the drip. Removed the TTI 2 1/2 inch head pipe from that side (for access) and replaced all three gaskets that pertain to the filter adaptor. Oil Leak appears to have stopped.

                                  7) Water pump bolt that also secures the alternator adjusting bracket leaked coolant. Replacing bolt (longer/more threads) with sealant did not solve the leak. Resorted to good old "Alumaseal" type product (actually had a "Gunk" label on the little yellow-colored tube). After ten minutes of idling the leak began to subside and eventually stopped completely.

                                  8) Thermostat housing leaked a nickel sized amount of coolant onto the intake manifold which I dried off three times. I did not re-tighten the two bolts. Leak seems to have stopped on its own or with the aid of the before-mentioned Alumaseal. I re-tightened the radiator hose clamps for good measure while I was thinking about it.

                                  9) a. Both automatic transmission lines leaked at the radiator cooler. I re-tightened them and seems to be OK now.

                                  b. One of the A/T cooler lines was cut by previous owner and patched with rubber line (about a 3 inch section) and hose clamps. One end of the patch (I used new rubber line) was dripping a little. I tightened the clamp three times so far, I think this last time I finally stopped the leak.

                                  c. Another one of the A/T cooler lines was cut by previous owner and patched with a compression fitting which was dripping slightly. I retightened the fitting which seems to have stopped the drip.

                                  10) The little access cover at the bottom of the bell-housing where one can access the four torque convertor bolts has not been replaced yet. The area inside that spot is slightly damp with ATF fluid but not enough yet to start dripping on the ground. Don't know what's going on inside there.

                                  11) Vehicle would not move in forward or reverse. Torqueflite dipstick showed over-filled while stopped and while running. After the cable adjustment and moving the gear select back in forth, the rear wheel(s) would spin in both reverse and drive. Now dipstick shows one or more pints ATF low. Vehicle still up on jack stands so roadworthiness of rebuilt Torqueflite still in question.

                                  12) While purging air from power steering pump for the first time with the wheels off the ground, I found a small puddle of fluid on the floor. I could find no leaks in neither the pressure line or return line. It appears the fluid overflowed out from under the reservoir cap (not 100% sure).

                                  P.S. Problem updates: 1) Oil pan drain plug still drippy after tightening it once. Used a torque wrench a second time to 20 ft.lbs which gave the plug another 1/4 turn and now it stays dry. 2) & 10) The torqueflite has minor drips from both the end of the tailshaft and from below the torque convertor. 7) The leak from the water pump bolt previously "cured" by Alumaseal began once again. The remedy was to replace the corroded aluminum timing chain cover that was not able to crush the water pump gasket in the area of the leaky bolt hole. While the front of the motor was apart, I also drilled a camshaft thrust plate bolt in order to oil the timing chain (it looked to be on the dry side). 8) I found one more drop of coolant on the intake manifold below the thermostat housing. Since it seems to evaporate with engine heat, I left it alone for now. 11) Once the rear wheels back were back on the ground, the Torqueflite was acting up by intermittently refusing to release the park sprawl when shifted from "park" to either "R" "N" or "D". I drove the vehicle around the block for the first time and felt the first-to-second gear shift, but unsure if drive was attained (did not drive very fast). To avoid the sticky "Park" selector problem, I used "N" and the emergency brake in place of shifting into "P".

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                                  Last edited: Dec 1, 2021 at 6:44 PM
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                                  • Keith Mopar

                                    Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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                                    Nice to see it coming together.
                                    I did use my original parking brake cables for my 65 Barracuda but was a lot of work to get it all to fit correctly. I wish I did the new A body upgrade like you did.
                                     
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                                    • mopowers

                                      mopowers Well-Known Member

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                                      That looks like an excellent conversion. I ended up using the stock cable set-up on my 66, but did have to tweak a few things to make it work correctly and clear my subframe connectors. The single cable set-up is much cleaner approach and would've saved a headache for me.

                                      Do you have the brake pedal assembly installed? If so, could you post up a photo of the pedals near the pivot and parking brake handle/pivot when you get it all installed? I just finished putting mine together in my 66 Dart and seem to have an extra spring on my work bench. I'm trying to figure out where it goes. Haha!
                                       
                                    • dibbons

                                      dibbons Well-Known Member

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                                      Update: More final checks. Lowered vehicle to driveway pavement and was able to back it into the garage under its own power. However, the next day, it would not budge. I pushed it back outside and warmed up the engine. The dipstick on the Torqueflite (in neutral) was wet only on the very tip. I added another quart of ATF and then it decided to shift into both "reverse" and "drive". It still may be a pint or so low.

                                      I adjusted the carburetor using the two idle mixture screws along with the center idle air screw. Idle speed is fairly steady at 800 RPM

                                      I found the dwell (we have single points) at idle speed (in neutral) was varying a little on the meter 27-30 degrees (initial timing is still set at 10 degrees BTDC but I don't remember having removed the vacuum advance hose when checking that).

                                      The manifold vacuum is showing exactly 20 inches mercury at idle speed (with fairly steady needle).

                                      I replaced the factory chrome air cleaner (don't have the pie tin). The idle seems to have smoothed out some since the initial/first fire-up.

                                      The sail panel courtesy lights and rear tail lights are driving me batty. They only work when THEY want to. Over and over again I go to track down the short or grounding problem when they begin working again. I even caught them going back on themselves when I was standing some distance from the vehicle and obviously the vehicle was perfectly still at the time.

                                      Instrument dash lights and turn signal indicator arrow are not working. However, the little bulb for the console automatic shift indicator is working. They are on the same circuit, so that seems a little strange.

                                      Ammeter has been bypassed, the oil pressure warning light was replaced by mechanical gauge so the warning light sensor has been omitted for now. The factory coolant sensor and fuel gauge sensor are wired up but apparently not registering (we have a mechanical coolant gauge installed and working as a back-up). The instrument cluster voltage regulator was replaced with aftermarket electronic unit (but not sure if it's making proper contact with the factory circuit board though).

                                      I have a kit to convert the factory Formula S tachometer over to electronics, but have not swapped the old parts out yet.

                                      Still no exhaust system (head pipes only). Need to flare out the ends of some of the TTI dual exhaust system (which is now ten years old) so things will slide together easily once more.

                                      The exhaust manifolds (painted with high heat silver) have not really smoked or smelled the few times I have warmed up the engine to operating temperature (running 190-200 at idle). Maybe that is because they were painted many months ago and the paint has "cured" over time. Just guessing about that.

                                      After having added an extra leaf spring on both sides I found the rear suspension would not budge an inch. Something happened with all the moving around lately and now I find I can push down and get some movement on the rear. It's stiffer now then the front suspension and must be sitting a little higher than before.

                                      The Rallye wheels have been painted a subtle dark color (graphite?) which I mentioned in previous posts. Front tires are Sears Guardsman P185/75R14 and rear Hankook P215/70R14.

                                      After dodging so many speed bumps (they are common here in Mexico) it appears I jacked up the front torsion bars for more clearance some time ago. I will leave that attitude just the way it is (for now).

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                                      Last edited: Sep 29, 2021
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                                      • 89on35s

                                        89on35s Inferno Red Duster FABO Gold Member

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                                        You're going to get those little gremlins sorted soon! That going to be 1 awesome car!

                                        Cley
                                         
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                                        • dibbons

                                          dibbons Well-Known Member

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                                          Update: Front turn signals/parking lights. Trying to remove "crazing" from the clear lenses: cleaned initially with creamy hand cleaner, then wet-sanded just a bit with 500/600 grit, then cleaned with wax/grease remover, then 3 coats Rust-Oleum automotive clear (no mention of UV protection on can). For now, I won't worry about re-painting the blue and red highlights on the center medallions.

                                          The two small removable steel brackets with many holes for fasteners were very crusty with rust. Used power drill and Dremel tool with abrasives, then a soak in Evaporust, then cleaned with wax/grease remover and then one coat of Rust-Oleum rust convertor. One or two coats of black enamel to follow.

                                          The louver/grille things were cleaned and then sanded with a red scotch-brite sanding pad and painted with SEM trim black. The two heavy chrome pieces were cleaned and the two small areas that need black highlighting were sanded and painted with trim black as well. The heavy chrome pieces also appear to have some silver highlighting on the inner diameter which I don't plan on renewing at this time. Painted the 9 fasteners and four speed nuts trim black.

                                          I'll remove the correct 1034A "painted" yellow mini-lamps and save them for posterity. I found some (not correct) yellow tinted 1034A bulbs on the shelf at AutoZone I will try out for now.

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                                          • Keith Mopar

                                            Keith Mopar Mopar Nut

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                                            Looking real good.
                                            I just finished my grills a few weeks ago although mine were broken and in real crappy shape your I did about the same as you for getting them back into shape.

                                            Mine before.
                                            IMG_E2151.JPG
                                             
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