Home > General Automotive Topics > Members Restorations > Project Frog Princess

Project Frog Princess

  1. She's green and ugly but with a lot of TLC she will be transformed into something better.

    Her heritage is humble. Custom model, 225 slant and 904. Her bones are good. No serious rust. She sat for years abandoned in central Washington state, in a lake area that required ferry access. Apart from the last owner who rescued her, she had only one prior owner. She still runs smoothly but the plan includes a wakeup call with a junkyard 5.9 upgraded with RHS heads etc, and an 833 OD 4 speed.

    The look will be pro-touring with 18s, mini-tubbed, moderately lowered. The front suspension will be upgraded to 74 V8 K-member with 1.03" bars. The power will be transferred to ground with an 8.8 limited slip with 4:10 gears. Frame rigidity will be enhanced with torque boxes, subframe connectors and a rad support brace.

    The interior was rotted out by the sun and will need all upholstery re-done. I've decided to go custom, and have started out by installing Cadillac CTS front seats. I'll put up some pics of that work in another post.

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  2. nice project.hope to see this roaming the palouse in the future.
  3. Thanks. I'm north of the Palouse near Rathdrum.

    Here's the seat rail installation. These seats do not fold forward, but work because they have a long forward and aft travel. I chose them based on integral shoulder belts, comfort and availability (ebay).

    A primary focus in the install is to have very strong mounting, especially the outer rails which have to withstand crash forces transmitted through the shoulder mounts. I used steel tubing split and rewelded to make one side match the rocker panel angles and welded the outer rails to the rockers. The ends were welded shut. The rails will be tied in to subframe connectors as well. The inner rails will be tied together by a fabbed driveshaft loop.

    The front of the seats have claws that mount into slots. The rear mounts to angle iron welded to the tubing. On one side, the existing bracket was removed. On the passenger side you see red paint on patched in metal. I got a little smarter on the driver side and managed to massage the existing metal into place without patches.

    Wiring them was simple thanks to member tincup for a diagram showing which wire to connect. The passenger side just needed one positive wire and a ground. The driver side needs positive to two connections. I am not connecting the heat.

    Next I'll see what's needed to make the rear seat fit. The picture is with it in the Caddy. I believe it's an inch or two less in width than the factory seats so I'll have to fill in a gap.

    Happy thanksgiving everyone.

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  4. Hello,Idaho.Nice detective work,ahead of starting on it. I look forward,to seeing this one done.
  5. the upgrade to late seats is a great start point...can't see why more people don't do it!....just because it's old doesn't mean it has to be grappy!! looking forward to following this build

  6. Thanks guys.
    After I get the rear seat figured out ill start rebuilding a V8 K member from a 74 Duster. I'm thinking ill use the Moog offset bushings to go with a lowered stance.
  7. Looking good so far buddy! more pics please :happy1:
  8. that was very nice choice for interior.
  9. should have done it factory lookin it looks better.
  10. Finally got a little time get the rear seat in the frog. Lots of pics to entertain everyone.

    First off the back is too tall. I started by slicing open the tunnel just to see if it was feasible at all. It will get welded shut. Even dropped as far as possible the back will sit above the package tray but I decided this is OK. I'll make a filler piece when I upholster the package tray.

    I reinforced the seat back frame so I could cut out the area hitting the tunnel.

    I drilled holes for the bolts securing the upper, and sliced off the locating "pins".

    Retainers were fabricated in simple fashion to fit the clips on the bottom of the seat. To locate them on the floor, I placed them in the clips and marked with a sharpie. Then I cut slots in flat metal and used the slots to locate them to the marks while tack welding. The slots helped hold the retainers while welding them in place.

    The base needed modification to accommodate the lowered back. The vertical filler sections were trimmed. The wire support in the center was retained and bent back to maintain support. This wire ties the sides together. The wires in the side sections were snipped out since this did not weaken the base structure. The electric knife is the ticket for a smooth cut through foam.

    To take up the slack after removing foam, I used lacing with some denim pieces sewn in for reinforcement.

    The retaining clips function better than I could have hoped for - perfect. They pop up with a firm tug. That was a nice surprise. I tacked them down half expecting to have to move them.

    It was a fair job to do but I'm pleased with the final result. I always like an excuse to weld.

    Not sure yet if I'll use the rear headrests.

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  11. First time I've used all the pic space in a post!

    Here's one with the cover laced down, and then in the car.

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  12. nice car hay what are the seats out of?
  13. I'm digging those seats!!!
  14. Way too fancy fer me, LOL!!

    Too bad you couldn't incorporate frame connectors with the seat mounts.
  15. It's looking relly good. That is definately bringing the interior ahead a few years. I think the style of seats you chose works well. The "square", boxish shape matches the body style. I like it, looks comfortable....and the cup holders, well.............:D
  16. You guys have officially been outvoted :D
    I like the factory look too. But my over 50 body likes these :) Just turned 50 on Pearl Harbor day which was also my grandfathers birthday. Maybe being over 50 is why I chose to start with seats.

    I plan to build subframe connectors that will be tied in along with a driveshaft loop. Perhaps I've gone about it backwards, but metal is not so hard to piece together. More opportunity to weld! I might even NEED a bigger mig tank :idea1:

    I may have overdone it :) I know I love seeing the pics of the work.


    Cadillac CTS, 2005 model.

    Thanks for outvoting the nay sayers :cheers:
    I think they may change their view if they could sit in them.
    My butt says \\:D/

    Didn't even think about the shape thing - I guess I can pretend I thought about that :) Now that they're in, I should be thinking of how to tie the look together. All input appreciated.
  17. The rear cup holders would be great for the drive in!! LOL
  18. It's also a trunk pass through. Not sure what to use it for??
  19. Nice project - love the seats myself also and they have gotten me to thinkin!
  20. Thanks.

    I'm busy now working on overhauling a V8 K member from a 74 Dart Sport. Got the Moog offset bushings in. Almost done replacing the lower arm bushings. Found a 1 3/8" tap on EBAY that made getting the shells out a snap.

    I plan to do the re-inforecements on the K member and lower arms. The the powertrain will come out so I can install the rebuilt parts and figure what wheels will fit and how low I can make it with the factory suspension.

    I've been trying to determine what offset for the front wheels. I think on an 8" wide wheel it needs about 5.2" minimum. This part is a pain. I think I'll have to order one wheel mount one tire and check fit so I don't run into excessive return charges. A potential problem is ability to return a wheel that has had a tire mounted :banghead:
  21. The 1 3/8" tap for $15 on ebay is one of the better tool purchases I can recall. It made removal of the lower control arm bushing shells quick and easy. :cheers:

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  22. Did some work on the K member. I'm no pro with the mig but its fun. The first pic is with the plate ready to be welded in.

    There's one more area on the steering box area I could box in. It's where you can see the nut.

    Thanks to mad dart for posting pics of his K member work.

    Next I'll reinforce the lower control arms.

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  23. thanks keep up the good work
  24. More welding fun. Ya I know kinda boring stuff but better than nothing right?

    I did Bad Darts tow hook method (thanks again). I had no way to bend the 3/16 steel for the skid plate so I slit it into bendable widths and welded them shut. I'll feel better jacking on the k member now. In stock form it kinda dents it up.

    Lots of flammable crud trapped inside the K member makes things fun.

    Next the lower control arms.

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  25. I "Like" the seats and everything too.
  26. Nice looking Dart Idaho, wish mine was that straight.
  27. Things dont rust up in Northern Idaho...
  28. Thanks. I wasn't totally sure it was the right thing to do but they are looking good to me and they are very comfy.

    This car sat in central Washington for many years. It's basically desert there. We get rain and snow all winter here so I think it was better off there.

    Thanks. I spent a full day on it today and am impressed with how unmolested the car is. I pulled the powertrain. Not one stuck fastener - hard to believe. Even the UCA bolts were easy.

    I had a twinge of sadness pulling the Charger 225 since it runs well and could have kept going. To make myself feel better I PMed Brian at IMM about getting some RHS heads for the 5.9 :)

    Here's a few pics for the sake of nostalgia.

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  29. Here's the beefed up LCAs. One is waiting for flap wheel cleanup.
    Now its time to mount the K member, and assemble things enough to test fit wheels before I order a set. I have some Dodge minivan and toyota wheels with 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern.

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  30. I've been working toward getting wheels ordered. This has been a rather frustrating thing for me to say the least. I want the car as low as practical with the stock suspension. There's a narrow window with wheel backspacing to achieve this. I'm planning custom wheels so its got to be right. Even with non custom wheels, once tires are mounted, they likely cannot be returned.

    So I installed the front suspension without torsion bars for testing purposes. I've got a frame dolly on the front raised and lowered by an engine hoist.

    The best info I had was from autoxcuda in this thread starting at post #83.

    Show That Lowered A-body!

    I did not find that any fender mod would be required on a Dart however.

    I happened to have a 245/45/18 wheel and tire for test purposes. It is about 26.5" tall. The wheel has 6" backspace. I reduced this to about 5.7" with spacers. This turns out to be ideal I think as it allowed me to find the outer limits of space :)

    It is 8.5 or 9" (edit: 8") wide and a narrower one would have been better. The section width of the tire is 9.5".

    I may seem to be pic crazy here but I believe others can benefit from documenting this process so here goes.

    1) The look - love it or hate it.
    2) A huge jump from stock.
    3) Surprise - that's as low as we go and as far as we turn when on the factory bump stops.
    4) Lots of room with an 18 for the ball joint at max droop. Word is that 17 is touch and go.
    5) Good tie rod end clearance (about 1/2").
    6) Clears the frame up front by about 1/4" at max droop and turn. Its the same at the rear frame. No room for a bigger tire or more backspace.
    7) Clears the LCA strut by about 1/8" at max droop and turn. No higher backspace possible. Sway bar is further away.
    8 ) Inside view on bump stop. There's about 1 5/8" to the inner fender up top. Note the ball joint angle. Not sure how long it would live like that.
    9) Front of fender clears.

    I plan to order an 18 x 7 wheel with about 5.5" backspace. Maybe a 225/45 tire. Smaller bumpstops can be used to go lower but with the effect on ball joint angle, my thought is drop spindles might be in order if a ride below what bumpstops allow is desired.

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  31. I'm half way through mini tubbing. Decided on a set of rear tires. Too good a deal to pass up. Goodyear F1 Supercar 285/40/18. Delivered today for $120.00 a piece with shipping.

    The 325/50/15 shown for comparison is about the max that can be stuffed into the tubbed space. These are a step down and I wondered if they would fill the space the way I want. Seeing them in place is the only way to know. I'm satisfied with the look. At that price ill feel OK using them to paint the pavement.

    Wheels are on order. Custom backspace. May be a month.

    Back to minitub work.

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  32. Keep up the good work and thanks for the pics
  33. Thanks Gary. Working out the front wheel issue to my satisfaction took some effort. I'm hoping it pays off, and that the pics can help others.
    Send us some sunshine from down under :)
  34. I see your enjoying the nice weather.lol your making good progress on the car,it's looking good. great work
  35. Thanks. I'm thankful to have a shop to get out of the cold. Just wish I had more time for the project. I put it on a rotisserie to make the mini tub job a little easier on the back. I'm about 80% there. There's so many mini tub pics on here I think I'll just post pics of the finished product.
    Cool to see quite a few members from Idaho.
  36. Finally got the wheels and tires. I'd be embarrassed if I knew and could say how many hours I obsessed over choosing.

    While waiting I've been mini tubbin. Almost done. Having the car on the rotisserie really helps. I also built a mock up axle which slides and locks. Its the only way I felt I could nail down the diff width with precision. It's way overbuilt but just used what I had available.

    I'm showing them from the rear, then with the axle on the frame bump stops and then down 3.5" at ride height. i'd like to be a touch lower but I don't see that happening.

    It's odd to say it and seems kinda superficial, but the truth is the car is being built around the wheels and tires. They are what will define the final look and character. Just doing the mock up on the rear is mentally a huge step in the car's transformation. Next to see how they look up front.

    Gotta get the K put back together.

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  37. Nice. I like it.
  38. Looks great. What are the final dimensions of the rear wheels you chose? How wide was your "mock up rear"?
  39. The rears are 18 x 10 with 4" backspace.
    I've settled on 49 5/8" planned for the disc to disc diff width. This provides 1 1/4" space between the frame rails and tires and about an inch where the upper well curves in toward the tire (with the mocked axle on frame bumpstops).

    This is the exact measurement that my drawings that were made using a plumb bob and just fiddling with tires in the wheelwells had suggested. I wanted to be sure before sending out axles to be cut.

    The 8.8 I'll be using has a 2" pinion offset to the passenger side. Since these cars come with a similar offset (something like 1 3/4") I'll likely take the same off each side. The 8.8 is 59.5" disc to disc, so that will mean 4 15/16" off each side. The minimum cutoff according to Dutchman Axles is 3.5" so I should be fine.

    Thanks. Nice 69.
  40. Looking good, wish I would have made a rear end jig like that. We almost ended up with the same wheels. Those were my 2nd choice.
  41. The jig bought me peace of mind. I'll be sending axles out for shortening soon.

    Found out the trac loc 8.8 diff I bought last year was an open diff. Contacted the wrecker and they sent me a new Yukon trac loc carrier. Could not believe it.

    Another goof up happened with my wheels. Turns out one was built with a 4.75" bolt center. I contacted the seller, and he got me a replacement in less than a week. Impressive considering these are custom built.

    Here's the k-member and arms after re-inforcements, tow hook install, and por-15. First time using por-15. Sure like how it goes on. And the warning about getting it on your hands - well I got a hole in one glove...

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  42. What back space did you end up with for the front? How do they fit?
  43. Looking good Idaho. Thats the only way to build a car. Set up everything around your wheel choice.
  44. The fronts are 18 x 7 with 5.125 backspace. That's the max I could get. I have to finish the por 15 on the front suspension parts and put it together to check the fit.

    Thanks. I felt kinda weird, putting so much emphasis on the tire & wheel choice but it just seems to be a fundamental element that has to be sorted out first.
  45. I wish I had done that. I mean, the car turned out amazing the way it is now, but I wish I had been able to set up the look before I started putting everything together. I just wanted it on the road asap. If I had to do it again, I'd get some drop spindles for the front and put some heavier springs on front as well as a full matched set of shocks.
  46. I think your car looks great. Not many like it.

    I've thought about drop spindles as well but don't like the cost. Even heavier bars are spendy at $200 a piece but I suspect I'll break down and put out the dough for them. I'm going to try it out with bars from a 340 car first.
  47. Coming together,really nice Idaho. Nice fab work.
  48. Thanks. I'm stealing ideas from all over this site :)
    I'm an amateur with the welder but I enjoy it.
  49. Thanks. Really? I've gotten many compliments on the wheel/tire choice and almost no hate. I've even managed to convert my dad from a 15 or die guy to someone who thinks that 17s or 18s are now the way to go for just about any car. :D

    I have been looking for 340/360 Torsion bars on the for sale section here over the past week, but they are usually snatched up within hours of being posted. The bars on summit are like 300 and I really don't want to spend that amount of money. But I might have to... :banghead:
  50. Sorry about that, what I was trying to say is there's not many cars like yours around :sad7:
    I like cars that stand out from the pack.

    $300 for a pair? I'll have to check Summit. I was looking at PST bars, which are $400 even with the member discount.
  51. Thanks I'll look into those. Summit does not have the 1" like these and at $200 for a pair, a good deal. I think the PST ones are clocked a bit for lowering, not sure these are but likely it does not matter.
  52. Thanks. I considered the 1st one, but ruled it out since it does not help with axle width.

    I was assuming the price is for each bar. It's not clear in the ad. The pic shows 2 but the description says "bar" not bars. I posted a question on Ebay.
  53. Some revision: For simpler calculation, I've adjusted the D to D width to 49 1/2" That's an even 10" off the 8.8. The A Body offset is 1 3/16" to the passenger side according to Dutchman and confirmed with a measurement. That's more difference than I like so I'll be going with different cutoff amounts. To adjust the 2" offset closer to the 1 3/16" mopar setting, I'll move the center over 3/4" to the driver side. The passenger axle will be shortened by 4 1/4" and the driver axle by 5 3/4".

    For reference the length of the 8.8 tube outer to outer is 56 1/4". Dutchman requires this measurement.

    Edit: What they want is backing plate outer flange to flange. Edit: It measures 54".

    (Boring stuff, Its just handy to have the numbers here for reference)
  55. That is a good deal because they are clocked for a lowered car suspension also.
  56. I suspect these are in my future. My guess is I can unload the 340 bars I was planning to use to offset the cost.
  57. What's your overall axle flange to flange measured at?
  58. The 8.8 from outer flange to flange measures exactly 54". I'm taking 10" off.
  59. So 44" cut down? What backspace are your wheels? I'm finally going to be sending my rear off to get cut but I lost my spec sheet so I need an idea of where I was. I think I'm supposed to be 54" axle hub to hub
  60. Rear are 18 x 10 with 4" backspace. The tube projects out another 1 1/8" past the mounting flange, so 2 1/4" total extra. Measuring that way I'd be at 46 1/4" to the outsides of the axle tubes.
  61. OK so me being a 20x10 6" backspace my rear end should land 4" wider then yours overall. Your at 44" housing end to housing end?
  62. I'm at 44" to to the outsides of the backing plate flanges. Housing end to end is 46 1/4". Adding 4" of backspace would put you at 50 1/4".
    This setup gives me 1 1/4" from tire to frame rail, and with the diff near frame bump stops will give about 1" to the outer fender well where it curves in. I assume you will have to trim that area out for your setup.

    Are you using an 8.8? If not of course these numbers will not apply. We'd have to use mounting surface numbers, which for me is 49.5"
  63. Mounting surface works for me. At that math I need to be 53.5 not my current 54.5 which explains a ton to me.
  64. I'm way tighter to the outer wells then I recalled being during mock up. Of course I only mocked up one side.
  65. I've got too many scraps of papar floating around and CRS so I decided to use FABO for keeping track of the numbers. Kinda handy to get at it with the iphone when not at home.

    I've also become very handy with the EDIT button while its available :)

    I think your tire is taller (I'm at 27") and with your coilovers you'll be lower so I imagine you will have to chop out the outer fender wells.
  66. Going through this last night and what no I found my sheet with my measurements. Mounting surface to mounting surface should be 53.5" like I thought yesterday and I rechecked it today and my mock up axle is at 54.5" so I need to blast off another inch not retub my car.
  67. Just out of curiousity, do you have your tire's section width and height handy?

    I don't know how close these cars are in the frame and quarter dimensions so I'll throw these out there.

    frame to frame (wheel side) - 38 7/8"
    quarter lip (inside) to lip - 67 3/4"
    lip to frame - 14.5"

    (discussion on measuring for backspace: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=220183)
  68. I'm 14.5 lip to frame on the car I do not how ever have the total width handy anymore.

    11.7" section width
    9.5 tread width on a 10" measured rim
    29.3" diameter.
  70. Yup, I'm aware - thanks. Maybe I'm a little brain dead reading the ad on Ebay but I suggest you clarify that its for 2 bars.
  71. Ill get that corrected.

  72. Not much work happening but I'm collecting parts.
    Should be interesting to set up a differential.
    The axles are at Dutchman for shortening.

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  73. I had to think about this one for a while. Was not sure I wanted the plastics. It will need modification of course for the 4 speed.

    I may carry the modern look further to the dash. Not sure how yet. Not sure what it would take to splice in a modern cluster.

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  74. That will be interesting. Any mock up pics yet? What is it out of?
  75. Same car as the seats - Cadillac CTS. I have not tried it in the car yet.
  76. What year CTS was it from? Have you thought of something like the digital cluster from a 1999 CTS? or similar?
  77. 2005 CTS. I had not looked at the CTS dash... seems silly I know, but I've been thinking in terms of shapes/arrangements that will suit the limited space in the Dart dash. Some dash modification is however not out of the question.

    This one from 2010 is actually very attractive. I like the separated guages rather than multiple needles on one flat face. Back to 2005 is similar. If I could make those work it would be a go, but I may be better off looking in the mid 90s like you had suggested.

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  78. If you go for something in the early 90's it would be easy to swap a more "modern" dash in. For example a 1991 or so Honda Accord has a huge boxy dash, and could be cut and shortened to fit on the stock metal frame (with some alterations) but you would have a lot of plastic to cut off. I think you need to just find something BIG so it can be trimmed down. That way you don't have to add parts to it or make adjustments to the edges. You can just terminate it, and reroute all your stuff.

    I think what would be awesome though, would be a 1989 or 90 cadillac deville dashboard with a digital dash. It's still square and would not make it out of place with the rest of the car.



    They also made a standard gauge set for it. And if you're lucky it may even use a speedo cable, rather than vss, but I'm not sure. It would also match the seats and seem completely in place in an older car. The problem with newer dashes like the one you pictured is that the door panels match it to make up a lot of the shape. If you remove those it will seem random in the interior with your flat door panels.
  79. Another thought. This one from 03 does not have all the gauges but those could be done separately with old school gauges. Might make the whole thing easier just dealing with speedo tach and fuel. Might be hard to match anything with this though.

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  80. You could get rid of the clock and probably fit a guage in there, but if you go with a route like this, I think you'd have an easier time just buying a few gauges and mounting them to a board. It'd be hard to center and build a dash around a shape like that.
  81. Perhaps. I'll keep looking. I guess you can tell, I like needles and round gauges. I don't care for digital numbers at all.
    I might do a dash mod that includes a curved "pod" for gauges.
  82. An early 90's car may have round gauges and will be a lot easier to convert.
    1992 accord dash and cluster maybe? 1990 through 1992 will be the same, and there is still white face and different color dress up kits available for the cluster


    The only real mod you'd need to do would be to shave the gauge cluster hood down so you could see maybe, otherwise it may not even be an issue, and the dash is plenty big to cut and fit.
  83. That is nice. If I do an entire dash not just a cluster I'd have to work out heater controls as well.
  84. I have another 200 Console if you like my set-up. Just throwing that out there.
  85. Hey thanks. I think I like my console but haven't done a test fit so we'll see. The leather matching the seats is nice and I will need to modify the front of any console regardless.

    I was trying to find a pic of the dash you were going to use in your mega thread - failed. Weren't you going to transplant the whole 200 dash? The 200 dash is very nice.

    The more I consider it, the I like the idea of a complete modern dash.

    Oh boy, "what have I got myself into????????????????????????????????????"

  86. I modified the stock dash to blend the lines into the console. Yes what have you got yourself into?
  87. OK, I remember now. I've had that notion as well, deleting the factory dash pad, and reworking the metal. Perhaps a little texture under the paint.

    I think a nice instrument pod could be blended in like the 200, or the Honda, maybe with fiberglass, and incorporate one of the clusters, or just arrange some old school gauges to replicate the look.

    Do you have a plan for gauges?
  88. I do, but, it's my secret right now.
  89. Too bad. I thought you could show me how :)
  90. This is a Miata cluster from 94-97. The bezel has been customized with led indicators which I like. I looked at service manuals but could not determine what gauge type is used.

    I may be able to find a gauge set in this size and utilize the Miata bezel. It could be incorporated in a total dash makeover. I just have my doubts about getting a complete dash to go in and look right.

    I need to figure out what size those gauges are.

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  91. Still working on that Miata conversion for ya Idaho. Looks like 1992 is the year to be for it. Cluster looks nice on it as well. I'm working a way to adapt the speedo cable. I have also converted a few wires. There's 3 harnesses on the cluster to go through, since the cluster show a bunch of stuff you won't use, like washer fluid level... but it may be possible to use it. Still working. But the 1992 still looks the same as the later models cluster, it just uses a speedo cable instead of a VSS wire. I think it will work for you.
  92. I got the gauge sizes and this set will work. There are others to choose from, the sizes are common. The speedo and tach are slightly smaller than the miata gauges. I think I can trigger the speedo with the ABS sensor in my 8.8 diff.

    Not sure which way I'll go yet. This set would make things easy. Please don't spend too much time on it in case I go this way. It may be that others will do the same thing though so you may be helping more than me.

    6 Gauge set with senders,full sweep,Speedo,Tacho,minors,black/chrome, 001BC-S | eBay

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  93. No worries, it's something I do in my spare time anyway because I can't leave stock cars alone. :glasses7:
  94. Got the K member back in and did a test fit with the front wheels and tires. Not real happy. The pics show full travel without torsion bars installed.

    I was hoping the tires would be tucked in a little more but with a fender rolling I think they'll be OK in terms of the backspace. There's a lot of room for more backspace but this was the max I could order in these wheels.

    The bigger problem is I would like the tire even with the fender at ride height. I'm not there even at full up travel. I can use a somewhat taller tire but that's not going to be enough. I either need 2" drop spindles (the likely choice due to cost but still not cheap) or go to something like a HemiDenny coil over. :banghead:

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  95. Call Denny and become the newest member of the HemiDenny K-Car club. You won't be disappointed.
  96. I'd like to but at around $3500 that's a pretty expensive call.

    Here's a test I just did using modelling clay. Looks like drop spindles won't work without wheel spacers. Don't wanna do that. :banghead:

    Maybe custom upper control arms. The contact is on the lip of the UCA. I'll look at Dillinger's stuff.

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