It’s a 5 speed, 3.83 2.33 1.44 1.00 0.79 1-5 with 3.55 gears, 235/75r15 tires so roughly 29.5 inches
@AJ/FormS calling Mr. Wizard... He will help you.
It’s a 5 speed, 3.83 2.33 1.44 1.00 0.79 1-5 with 3.55 gears, 235/75r15 tires so roughly 29.5 inches
Post #119. The idle jet, often called the IFR [ idle feed restriction ], supplies fuel to the transfer slot [ TS ]; it is sized for the TS, not for the idle mixture. There is always enough range on the mixture screws to get the idle correct.
The TS controls off idle. I would enlarge the IFR 2-3 thou. Leave the PV alone.
Yeah I did some more research about it and it makes sense. It seems like everything I’m reading, the 4 corner idle is for engines that need the secondary blades open to idle, so they need extra fuel from that side. Obviously in my case I have them fully shut, so no point in feeding fuel. Plus I’d imagine using just the primary side gives the transfer slot more cushion as wellThis is what you get when you change too many things at once. Just idle off the primaries. Other brands of 4bbl carbs only have idle screws on the primaries.....& they idle & cruise just fine. I doubt that the 4 corner idle carbs were EVER designed to be used with an engine that has such high idle/cruise vacuum...& hence the richness.
Sorry if you have already covered this but, have you verified that the tdc mark is correct?This might be a stupid question but, are the weights that come in spring kits the same as the ones that are already in the distributor? I’m going to try to map out my timing curve tomorrow while I’m at work, but I don’t know if the weights that are in the kit would give me the same curve as the ones that are currently in the distributor from the factory
To my best ability yes, I don’t have a piston stop but when the heads were off and the crank was installed I looked at the marks while it was turned by hand and it starts the power stroke right after 0 on the balancer. Low mileage engine with a brand new at the time balancer, so I’m sure it’s still the same nowSorry if you have already covered this but, have you verified that the tdc mark is correct?
Probably close then. I would give yourself plus or minus a few degrees when considering actual timing numbers read from the engine.To my best ability yes, I don’t have a piston stop but when the heads were off and the crank was installed I looked at the marks while it was turned by hand and it starts the power stroke right after 0 on the balancer. Low mileage engine with a brand new at the time balancer, so I’m sure it’s still the same now
What the 4 corner idle gives you is better distribution especially in engines with lower vacuum levels at idle.Yeah I did some more research about it and it makes sense. It seems like everything I’m reading, the 4 corner idle is for engines that need the secondary blades open to idle, so they need extra fuel from that side. Obviously in my case I have them fully shut, so no point in feeding fuel. Plus I’d imagine using just the primary side gives the transfer slot more cushion as well
But in the case of my engine with high vacuum, it’s essentially just pulling way too much fuel as opposed to having just 1 side open more?What the 4 corner idle gives you is better distribution especially in engines with lower vacuum levels at idle.
Very possible. You can try going smaller on the IFR and IAB. When you get it right it should whistle as the air goes sonic.But in the case of my engine with high vacuum, it’s essentially just pulling way too much fuel as opposed to having just 1 side open more?
When would it be whistling? While it’s idling or when the t slot starts pulling?Very possible. You can try going smaller on the IFR and IAB. When you get it right it should whistle as the air goes sonic.
When its idling.While it’s
With the 31ifr/70iab combo I do hear a whistle with the hood open, I either never heard it previously or never paid attention to it but I’m pretty sure it’s new with this combo of bleedsWhen its idling.