Putting doors back on, any tips?

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RSie

RSie

Idiot In Training
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My father in law stopped over the other night, and I snagged him to help me put the doors back on my Cuda. I could get the top bolts in, but was not successful on the bottom hinge. Didn't mess with it long, he didn't have much time. The mount in the door kept sliding around. Didn't have much light to see.
Both mounts are on the car. Would it be easier to have one or both on the door instead?
I'm sure I can get it, but figured I'd ask the experts who've been there, done that.
 
I got a Mopar buddy to help temporarily install and align my sedan doors to my sedan delivery conversion. Since the original wagon doors had a nice alignment with the original hinges bolted to the body, I elected to leave them installed. The new sedan driver’s door practically fell in place. On the passenger door today we futzed with it for over an hour till we were satisfied with the alignment and gaps. Bear in mind I am replacing the wagon’s B pillar with a 2 door sedan B pillar and between the door and the B pillar, it took awhile.
 
When I did my 71' Dart I installed the hinges to the body with the outside bolts snug, but the inside one left loose.
Taped of the jamb area for protection and then attached the doors and started the alignment process.

Screen Shot 2019-09-19 at 6.59.38 PM.png
 
I found by taping some paint sticks on the rocker to hold the door gap up helps, and removing the latch so the door just swings.
 
65 Dartman said:
I got a Mopar buddy to help temporarily install and align my sedan doors to my sedan delivery conversion. Since the original wagon doors had a nice alignment with the original hinges bolted to the body, I elected to leave them installed. The new sedan driver’s door practically fell in place. On the passenger door today we futzed with it for over an hour till we were satisfied with the alignment and gaps. Bear in mind I am replacing the wagon’s B pillar with a 2 door sedan B pillar and between the door and the B pillar, it took awhile.
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Install the doors with both hinges attached. Just snug the bolts, don't get them real tight, as you will probably have to do a lot of aligning. Hinges on body will give you height and back and
forward movement. Get the door aligned for gap at 1/4 panel. Once that is achieved, in and out movement on the door with the hinges attached to door. It is much easier to align doors to
body and then fenders to doors. You didn't mention whether the fenders were on or off the car. And have a helper as that is a hard job to accomplish by yourself. Also tape edges to avoid
scratches. Deaden the tape by putting it on your shirt before putting it on the car. This will minimize pulling the paint if your edges weren't prepped good.
 
Lee Robinson said:
Install the doors with both hinges attached. Just snug the bolts, don't get them real tight, as you will probably have to do a lot of aligning. Hinges on body will give you height and back and
forward movement. Get the door aligned for gap at 1/4 panel. Once that is achieved, in and out movement on the door with the hinges attached to door. It is much easier to align doors to
body and then fenders to doors. You didn't mention whether the fenders were on or off the car. And have a helper as that is a hard job to accomplish by yourself. Also tape edges to avoid
scratches. Deaden the tape by putting it on your shirt before putting it on the car. This will minimize pulling the paint if your edges weren't prepped good.
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Hinges attached to the body, or to the doors?
Fenders are off.
I need to put them back on to help keep the body straight while I pull the torsion support and frame rails out, not worried about getting them exactly right (as well as some bracing welded in). I have the paint to go by to get them exactly where the were, the gaps looked good there. Just looking for any tips to actually get the bolts back in, lol. Floor jack and 2x4 under the door maybe? Probably be doing this by myself.
 
RSie said:
Hinges attached to the body, or to the doors?
Fenders are off.
I need to put them back on to help keep the body straight while I pull the torsion support and frame rails out, not worried about getting them exactly right (as well as some bracing welded in). I have the paint to go by to get them exactly where the were, the gaps looked good there. Just looking for any tips to actually get the bolts back in, lol. Floor jack and 2x4 under the door maybe? Probably be doing this by myself.
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If the doors are complete it's going to be a mother F'er to do by yourself. Empty doors are hard enough to do alone.
 
My body man made this great jig using a hand truck. Made it a one man removal/install tool.
update April 15, 2015 004.jpg
 
I always put a weight (about 10 pounds) in the door to simulate the weight of the window, latches, etc. Some say it is a waste of time, some say it isn't. I figure it makes the door's weight more realistic, so I like it,
 
20190728_165516 (1).jpg
Here ya go Ron this is what you use to get that far back bolt on the hinge to cowl it's made by Snap on and works fantastic.
I think I've owned this for about 30 years had the 9/16 at one time but one of my boys misplaced it. lol
 
harrisonm said:
I always put a weight (about 10 pounds) in the door to simulate the weight of the window, latches, etc. Some say it is a waste of time, some say it isn't. I figure it makes the door's weight more realistic, so I like it,
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Very good point because it does make a difference. mostly on older cars.
 
RSie said:
Hinges attached to the body, or to the doors?
Fenders are off.
I need to put them back on to help keep the body straight while I pull the torsion support and frame rails out, not worried about getting them exactly right (as well as some bracing welded in). I have the paint to go by to get them exactly where the were, the gaps looked good there. Just looking for any tips to actually get the bolts back in, lol. Floor jack and 2x4 under the door maybe? Probably be doing this by myself.
Click to expand...
I built a door jack. Its a cradle of sorts on casters and a crank to raise and lower the arms. No helper required.
 
Just get a scissors type jack, and put a bunch of towels (folded over) on top to softly support the door. You can the move the door up and down as need to align the holes. You can also shift the door back and forth(side to side) by hand- get some bolts started, and you will work on alignment after it's bolted up.
 
Tooljunkie said:
I built a door jack. Its a cradle of sorts on casters and a crank to raise and lower the arms. No helper required.
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X2 most floor jacks the foot comes off, just make something out of wood, use a bolt to secure it thru the center hole.
 
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