QA1 Handling kit questions ???

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RON REAGLE

RON REAGLE

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I'm considering a QA1 handling kit install for my 68 340 Barracuda. My question is am I going to face any fitment issues??? I'm also looking at a set of TTI headers during the install. My car is a manual brake and manual steering with auto on the column. Just want to know if I'm going to run into problems BEFORE I spend a bunch of money. Or is there a better option???
 
The kit I was looking at included shocks. BUT another question was what makes the Drag Race set up different??

My original question was about clearance for the oil pan , starter , headers , steering box and steering link ? IF there's a major problem in these areas then there's no real benefit over a stock style set up with new parts. I read a review where a guy with a car like mine DID NOT buy it due to having the same clearance problems that already exist. I'm looking for an answer from someone who actually installed one of these in their car.
 
Shouldn't have issues with that stuff fitting. Coulmn shift linkage maybe with the headers but that's the case with that kit or not. If you really want the kit is call qa1 and ask what they say fits. Only thing I can see is maybe it needs a specific oil pan?

That kit really is nothing special. It's just a tub version of a stock set up. I'm sure the upper arms have more alignment built into them. Adjustable strut rods but the rest is nothing too special.
 
Not much handling gain for $2K

What is the objective? Is this just for improved street handling? Clean looks?

If you are looking for wide front rims and want to run 17” with 5” or more backspace, the QA1 upper control arm can hit the rim. The raised portion around the ball joint is the issue.
 
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Just looking to improve handling and braking. The old suspension needs rebuilt and has small ball joints etc. Looking to convert to disc brakes with the big ball joints and add the tubular adjustable upper control arms while I'm at it. Noticed the handling kit included all new components as well as a sway bar which I'd like to add. Haven't decided just doing some research (and tearing the car apart)
 
RON REAGLE said:
I'm considering a QA1 handling kit install for my 68 340 Barracuda. My question is am I going to face any fitment issues??? I'm also looking at a set of TTI headers during the install. My car is a manual brake and manual steering with auto on the column. Just want to know if I'm going to run into problems BEFORE I spend a bunch of money. Or is there a better option???
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I have TTI headers on a small block with stock K-Member and they fit perfectly. I personally don't see much value in using the QA1 K-member for your application. Small block in an A-body is common practice. Everyone will have their own opinion on this topic. I welded my K-member, used adjustable strut rods, tube type tie rod adjusters, tubular uppers, boxed in the lowers, and used 1.08 sway away t-bars. the difference from stock was amazing. I'm still using cheap KYB shocks and I don't have a sway bar as both are on backorder from Hotchkis for another 2 months.
To answer your question about drag racing, if you plan to street drive and drag race, the adjustable shocks may be best for you. That way you can loosen the extension and slow down the compression on the front shocks when you race.
 
RON REAGLE said:
Just looking to improve handling and braking. The old suspension needs rebuilt and has small ball joints etc. Looking to convert to disc brakes with the big ball joints and add the tubular adjustable upper control arms while I'm at it. Noticed the handling kit included all new components as well as a sway bar which I'd like to add. Haven't decided just doing some research (and tearing the car apart)
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Cheaper to buy upper arms, sway bar,strut rods, add larger torsion bars and rebuild the rest of what you have while adding what ever brake kit you want. Lower arms stay the same for small or large bolt pattern.
 
RON REAGLE said:
Just looking to improve handling and braking. The old suspension needs rebuilt and has small ball joints etc. Looking to convert to disc brakes with the big ball joints and add the tubular adjustable upper control arms while I'm at it. Noticed the handling kit included all new components as well as a sway bar which I'd like to add. Haven't decided just doing some research (and tearing the car apart)
Click to expand...

Does you car have sway bar tabs on the lower control arm?

It looks like 340-S which would have a sway bar originally

Are you converting to large bolt pattern rims?

Looks like the QA1 Kmember has sway bar mounts under their K-member. I don’t like that at all. Plenty of K-members get scraped. With the QA1, the sway bar bushing straps will be the first thing to get scraped
 
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No sway bar tabs on my lower control arms. I have 4" bp wheels and don't want to change them. The old school Centerlines just look "right" on my car. The suspension needs gone over anyhow and the drum brakes suck!!!
 
RON REAGLE said:
No sway bar tabs on my lower control arms. I have 4" bp wheels and don't want to change them. The old school Centerlines just look "right" on my car. The suspension needs gone over anyhow and the drum brakes suck!!!
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ok good info.

I’m working with what you need vs what you have to meet the objective.

Do you have a factory V-8 K-member in it now? Or are there /6 to V-8 conversion mounts?

Does your Kmember have an idler arm that has two flat pieces of the Kmember on top and underneath the idler arm with a through bolt going through everything. Like the idlers sets in a U shapped channel.

I just want to confirm exactly what K-member you have. It possible to have them swapped over 50 years time.

If you have a stud mounted idler or using conversion mounts, that just adds to the justification and benefit to swapping it out.
 
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racerjoe said:
I have TTI headers on a small block with stock K-Member and they fit perfectly. I personally don't see much value in using the QA1 K-member for your application. Small block in an A-body is common practice. Everyone will have their own opinion on this topic. I welded my K-member, used adjustable strut rods, tube type tie rod adjusters, tubular uppers, boxed in the lowers, and used 1.08 sway away t-bars. the difference from stock was amazing. I'm still using cheap KYB shocks and I don't have a sway bar as both are on backorder from Hotchkis for another 2 months.
To answer your question about drag racing, if you plan to street drive and drag race, the adjustable shocks may be best for you. That way you can loosen the extension and slow down the compression on the front shocks when you race.
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What did you weld on the K member?
 
racerjoe said:
I welded all the seams and gusseted around the steering box mount and idler arm mount. As I'm sure you are aware, the factory welds are terrible on K-members.
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You must have had it out of the car.
 
I didn't read through all the posts so hope this still helps. I have a 73 Scamp with Manuel steering and brakes as you have and have QA1 suspension that I'm using torsion bars and running TTI headers and no problem with the K member bolting up or anything for that matter.
Had to shim the motor mount on the left and ding the header a bit to clear the steering box but I like it better than the stock set up.
20190425_172046.jpg
20200118_144903.jpg
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I didn't read through all the posts so hope this still helps. I have a 73 Scamp with Manuel steering and brakes as you have and have QA1 suspension that I'm using torsion bars and running TTI headers and no problem with the K member bolting up or anything for that matter.
Had to shim the motor mount on the left and ding the header a bit to clear the steering box but I like it better than the stock set up. View attachment 1715672977 View attachment 1715672978
Click to expand...

nice pictures

are you running a front sway bar?
 
RON REAGLE said:
The kit I was looking at included shocks. BUT another question was what makes the Drag Race set up different??

My original question was about clearance for the oil pan , starter , headers , steering box and steering link ? IF there's a major problem in these areas then there's no real benefit over a stock style set up with new parts. I read a review where a guy with a car like mine DID NOT buy it due to having the same clearance problems that already exist. I'm looking for an answer from someone who actually installed one of these in their car.
Click to expand...
Call Qa1 ask for bill Foley used to be in research and development. Very knowledgeable was around when kit was designed can answer any questions on fitment. He helped me with the last two I installed. Unfortunately I didn't install them with your setup to be able to tell you for sure if there will be problems.
 
RON REAGLE said:
No sway bar tabs on my lower control arms. I have 4" bp wheels and don't want to change them. The old school Centerlines just look "right" on my car. The suspension needs gone over anyhow and the drum brakes suck!!!
Click to expand...
I know firmfeel has the brackets (and sway bar) that mount to the shock bolt for the front sway bar so you don’t need the early or later tabbed LCA’s.
 
My car does have the idler arm that has the U shaped channel in the K frame. I assume this is the correct style for a 68?
 
RON REAGLE said:
My car does have the idler arm that has the U shaped channel in the K frame. I assume this is the correct style for a 68?
Click to expand...

yes that is the 68-72 style. That’s the better design and idlers are less expensive and easier to buy.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
I didn't read through all the posts so hope this still helps. I have a 73 Scamp with Manuel steering and brakes as you have and have QA1 suspension that I'm using torsion bars and running TTI headers and no problem with the K member bolting up or anything for that matter.
Had to shim the motor mount on the left and ding the header a bit to clear the steering box but I like it better than the stock set up. View attachment 1715672977 View attachment 1715672978
Click to expand...

Fred Scigliano- Quick question on QA1 parts used. Do you have the upper and lower control arms installed from QA1? I'm looking at one of the kits: QA1 HK12-CRA1 1967-72 Mopar A-Body Handling Suspension Kit, Level 2

They say it only fits 67-72 A-Bodies Mopars. However, I was told that the only thing required for it to work on my 74 is to use biscuit type motor mounts? I was wondering about the upper control arms from QA1. Do they use the larger ball joint? Did you have any issues there? I was planning to use factory spindle and disc brakes?
 
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