QA1 strut rods hitting sway bar end links

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snailpower

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hi guys, I haven’t seen this posted anywhere so I thought I would get the group consensus.

I recently installed these adjustable qa1 strut rods that are a bit thicker diameter than stock and are now hitting my sway bar end links on both sides. It’s a firm feel sway bar. I tried rotating the upper mount tabs to face up and down, no luck either way.

The only fix I can see for this is the sway bar to be wider.

Any ideas?

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Does it still.hit with the stock struts in? I'm definately not a suspension expert by any means. Also I thought the Qa1 sway was for Qa1 k frame and qa1 tubular Lca s.
 
Does it still.hit with the stock struts in? I'm definately not a suspension expert by any means. Also I thought the Qa1 sway was for Qa1 k frame and qa1 tubular Lca s.

Mopar Dynamic Strut Bars - A-Body, B-Body & E-Body | QA1 Suspension Components | Drag & Street

Their description says for stock or aftermarket k. They help dial in the alignment more and were even recommended by my alignment guy to work with my tubular UCAs.

No the stock strut rods don’t hit the end links, since the diameter is less they leave a bit of space.

I might give firm feel a ring and see what they say.
 
Your issue should read, my aftermarket sway bar with bolt on end link brackets hits my strut rod.

Haha that was what was in my head but too cumbersome for a title

My ride height is a bit low from having the k member out recently so I’m going to dial ride height in and see what happens.

When it was apart:

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The issue is with the bolt on end link brackets. They're just not in the right place. They put an angle on the end links, which isn't terrible, but it's not ideal even without the interference issue. The 67-72 Hellwig sway bars have the same issue with the bolt on tabs and adjustable strut rods.

I'd weld the tabs onto the LCA's further outboard. They'll end up lower as well, which will also shorten the end links.
 
Did you get this resolved?

I'm currently on the same road a few miles behind you.

Needing to buy adjustable heim joint strut rods and trying to get one that works without modifying.

I have a hellwig 55917 anti sway bar, it's supposed to work for my 72 dart, 18" wheels, 5.90" backspace.

And just when I thought I was making some headway....... Faaaaak.
 
I powder coated the lower control arms after bracing it and tightening it up. Didn't really want to destroy that coating, but at this point, a perfect job it will not be.

Dang it.

Weldy weld....
 
I powder coated the lower control arms after bracing it and tightening it up. Didn't really want to destroy that coating, but at this point, a perfect job it will not be.

Dang it.

Weldy weld....
I have the Hotchkiss brackets in stock....Pm me if you need them.
 
Did you get this resolved?

I'm currently on the same road a few miles behind you.

Needing to buy adjustable heim joint strut rods and trying to get one that works without modifying.

I have a hellwig 55917 anti sway bar, it's supposed to work for my 72 dart, 18" wheels, 5.90" backspace.

And just when I thought I was making some headway....... Faaaaak.

I have not resolved it yet, I kind of gave up figuring I need to weld some tabs on after trying like 3-4 different end link combos. I have just been letting the sway bar hang out up there and hasn't caused me problems.

It will be interesting to compare back to back when I finally get it hooked up. I thought it would feel worse, but the 1.12 torsion bars and bilsteins are compensating well I guess. I can def feel the "disconnectedness" between the front wheels at times, but not constantly. I think this is the first car I have ever driven without a front sway haha...
 
I have not resolved it yet, I kind of gave up figuring I need to weld some tabs on after trying like 3-4 different end link combos. I have just been letting the sway bar hang out up there and hasn't caused me problems.

It will be interesting to compare back to back when I finally get it hooked up. I thought it would feel worse, but the 1.12 torsion bars and bilsteins are compensating well I guess. I can def feel the "disconnectedness" between the front wheels at times, but not constantly. I think this is the first car I have ever driven without a front sway haha...

With 1.12's up front you really have to give it the business to need a sway bar up front in addition to the large bars. Under normal driving conditions not having the sway bar up front isn't really noticeable. Under more spirited driving you may start to notice some body roll, but around town it wouldn't make much, if any, difference.
 
Just move the upper sway bar link bracket off the shock bolt straight over to the outside of the control arm and weld er on. It appears that the top of the link needs to go that way anyway. You may need to trim a little off that top folded corner to get the bracket to fit, but that won't hurt a thing.

Also, the strut rods are not to be used for changing alignment specs. That is totally incorrect. Because of the nature of the lower control arm bushings, pulling or pushing on them from the adjustable strut rods will cause them to bind and prematurely wear the bushings out. A lot of people thing the adjustable strut rods are adjustable so that caster can be adjusted. That is not true. They are adjustable simply to more zero in on their correct position and that's all.
 
OEM bars have the end links loaded on top of the lower arm bracket. Thats why we have to move the late model calipers to the rear of the spindle. If you can load your aftermarket bar end links like OEM that would solve the conflict. You may need different length/shorter end links. Bar still works the same.
 
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