In this discussion they basically talk about jumping the starter relay with the alternator stud - my question is: is it obvious which stud on alternator to connect to? - '68 383 with original style alternator. thnx for any comments. Also can you leave amp gauge alone or do you have to disconnect ? 1. Bulkhead (firewall) are the universal trouble spot. Left, connector used on ‘71-‘74 B-bodies and all E-bodies. Charging system current (to ammeter) typically utilizes cavities 16 and 18. On pre-‘70 B-bodies and ‘67-mid-‘75 A-bodies, ammeter current is typically via cavities J and P. These are the trouble spots. Note that on fleet vehicles, the factory wisely routed charging though a solid wire passed through a grommeted hole in the firewall, eliminating the trouble spot. 3. Here’s where those firewall wires terminate - the ammeter on the instrument cluster. Notice how beefy the studs and wiring are. Wouldn’t it be lovely if the bulkhead connector was this good? Notice that the “black” (negative) side of the ammeter was the factory’s choice for accessory current take-off. 4. To straighten out the wiring problem permanently, you need some decent supplies. A few feet of automotive-grade wire, 10 or 12 gauge (depending on you alternator’s rating and anticipated current loading), fusible links (see text), some crimp splices and heat-shrink tubing, and, if need be, some quality electrical tape. If you’re adding any other accessories, do yourself a favor and opt for the modern blade-type fuse holder and fuses. 5. Connect a fusible link to the starter relay stud. Crimp-splice in a piece of suitable (heavy-gauge) wire, and connect the other end to the alternator stud. That’s it....firewall problems bypassed forever!