So i need some suggestions on a radiator for my 66 Dart build, the engine is a 408 532 HP Street car Im thinking i want to go with an electric fan, so what is the best setup..? 4 core twin fans ?
no more over heating !!!!!!!!! Radiator clearance Duster 383 cooling issue you can tell it's winter, all the "my car is over heating" threads have dried up
Give these folks a call...great for information, they helped me out with what I needed. Norm Aluminum Radiators and Shrouds for Classic Cars and Hot Rods
Look at U.S Radiator, I have 22” 4 row copper/brass in my B body no A/C that keeps it in the 180’s in the Summer. I saw a 22 U.S. Radiator in a 65 with a 413 at a car show last Summer, the owner said he had no heating problem. Looked good with a metal shroud. Do you have A/C?
i posted some threads that have a lot of info in them. the was in anticipation of the sometimes ruckus conversation this subject can conjure up. especially the electric vs belt driven opinions
Over the years I think I have been thru just about all the cooling configurations you can think of. By far the best set up that I have run is a Griffin 2 row X 1 1/4 core radiator with a Mopar 7 blade fan. I have used this set up on big cubic inch inch BBM and SBM applications with great success even with A/C. I have yet to find an electric fan that will cool in the high ambient temps like we get here in MO.
I just went through this ordeal myself 408 stroker had the factory 2 core 22 inch radiator with a new short shaft clutch fan ,7 blade ,fan shroud, 180 F Stewart Warner thermostat very mild day I’m talking 16-18 degrees c while running anywhere from 183-190 F if I got caught in traffic or a railway crossing I would shit myself as temps would climb to 210-220F. Purchased champion 3 core helped a little but still low speed driving or stationary same issue. In the end I bit the bullet as I had too much invested in my engine and had a custom 3 core cross flow made running a quality 16 inch thermo fan running a 160 thermostat no shroud now I can drive on a 35 degree c day in traffic and it won’t go over 190F . It was expensive but it was worth the coin. I run the overflow behind the grill and cannot be seen looking front on as the bumper hides it and the trans cooler is mounted off the centre radiator support and just bent up some flat alloy strip to support the other side.
Everyone has their own opinion on what works / doesn't..... I'm running a champion dual core with twin SPAL fans and a 190* tstat. 74 dart sport with a 408. It did NOT directly bolt up, it required a few mods. But I got it on sale with the shroud and fans for 389 a couple years back. Some people swear by them, some people swear at them, my only experience is with this one. I can tell you from experience, do not cheap out on the fan controller if go the electric route
No cutting on the core support core is about 1/4 larger in both directions. More cooling fins and tubes in the core than your normal setup radiator. L shaped brackets to hold radiator in place bottom is supported by 2 alloy dowls welded on radiator base and sits on large rubber grommets and they poke through your lower radiator support panel.
Same here , a lot of experimentation , and back to a short clutch mech fan , 28x19 crossflow , w/ 2 rows of 1 1/4" tubes .
I don't think you have much clearance on engine side on an early A. I put a puller on engine side and a pusher on the outside staggered to cover the core. My engine is only 300hp but the fans only come on when the car is stopped for a bit, stays cool no problems. With a high HP setup as yours pick the best/biggest rad. and 2 high CFM fans. I have had bad experiences with fancy electronic fan controllers failing. I now use simple capillary type ( one for each fan w relays) if one side fails you still have backup.
A company local to me in Aus, went down to see them they took measurements, come to my home sat it in made sure all was good marked outlets to cut holes into tanks ,he checked where to mount top mounting brackets took it away welded everything up returned and installed it. Now that’s customer service. Fan is programmed through the sniper can set it up at any temp to come on-off. Don’t cheap out on a quality relay and use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse as they can take a lot more load as these fans can draw a lot of amps. Just to add if your running a 50-60 amp alternator it won’t cut it under idle you will need to step it up. I run a 95 amp and under load with fan on running the msd and sniper volts drop only to 14.4 where as before it would drop to 10.8 v .
