Rallye Dash Resto

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Dartswinger70

Dartswinger70

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I'm looking for any info on retoring a rallye dash in my '70 swinger340, I've seen the inserts for the woodgrain,and I think the black would be asy to figure out,but what about the "chrome plated"plastic features,does anyone have an idea,or is the only answer to send it out for restoration?
 
i know of no way to restore these dashes other than sending them out. they look beautiful restored. i guess if you wanted you could paint it but, you would still be stuck with the chrome part not being done....your call
 
If you`re in Canada there`s cvvacuumplaters.com and in the U.S. there`s autoinstruments.com, either one will charge about 4 bills for their service.The only thing close is mirror chrome paint but it pales in comparison to vacuum plating. HTH.
 
I've come up with an idea from my model building days as a kid.I'm in the middle of covering my rallye dash with "Krome foil" found in hobby shops.It is a temporary solution as I am sinking all my coin into the body and paint right now.It seems to look pretty acceptable for a low buck resto,I will post a photo when I'm done.Again this wont suit everyone,and it wont win a trophy at a show,but I think it is doable for a regularly driven car(It looks pretty good from a few feet away)
 
I would like to see that-Im on a budget also and there always time to do it over.
 
I just did mmine myself......well, its 90% done anyway....

bh84.JPG


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I stripped my dash plastic using Castrol Super Clean degreaser. I made a box out of wood and lined it with a plastic trash bag. Let the dash soak overnight and use a tooth brush and warm water to clean off the old plating. I primed and painted the dash semi-gloss black. Then I masked off the surround for the gauges, controls, and the upper section. I sprayed the "chrome" areas with DupliColor chrome. While it looks OK, it's much cheaper than the $300 re-chroming cost. As for the mention of using the modeling foil I wouldn't trust it over time as it will probably loosen up over time with the heat. Not to mention at several dollars a sheet it will probably cost you $60 or better for the foil!

If your restoring your car for serious judging in stock classes, go with the plating. If your building a Hot Rod or street fighter, paint it.




DASH6-vi.jpg


I also lost the radio opening and did a photo-reverse image for the white gauge faces. The bottom is trimmed in faux carbon fiber.

DASH6-vi.jpg
 
7demon2 said:
ok i'll bite ...what is HTH? or am i missing something i'm not seeing
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Sorry 7demon2, I`m remiss when it comes to visiting some of these older threads, but OldVart got you the answer. HTH! Lol!
 
Thanks all for posting youre ralley dash photos,i'm still playing with mine,its coming along ok thanks again for the ideas
 
I did as Fastback340 on his Barracuda dash with the Dart Sport. I ordered the woodgrain insert from WhiteGuages. It resembles original for a fraction of the $. The Duplicolor Chrome isnt bad and the wood grain, while not a perfect reproduction ,is good. I guess if the car was a high priced collector item I could of justified sending the stuff off.

Dart Sport 030_3.jpg
 
Also, that is a dash cap. Had the local Dupont store mix up correct Dark Parchment paint for vinyl to change the cap from black to the original color.
 
Hello, all,I'm attempting to post a photo of the "chrome foil experiment" I think I'm not going to use it,although it doesnt look as bad as it could,I cant seem to get all the wrinkles out,and the seams are hard to hide too,anyway,I think I'm going to paint mine,thanks for the replies!

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Some of the methods above look pretty good for a street car but if you decide to have it done properly, I highly suggest sending it to Glenn at GCAR in Washington. You just don't find guys like this is in our hobby any more. He's one of the goodguys. I have had several pieces done by him.

www.gcartrim.com
 
FASTBACK340 said:
DASH6-vi.jpg


I also lost the radio opening and did a photo-reverse image for the white gauge faces. The bottom is trimmed in faux carbon fiber.
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Inspired a thought here when you deleted the radio openings...
Anyone ever looked at moving the heater to where the radio was and place the radio up there in its place ?

DASH6-vi.jpg


DASH6-vi.jpg
 
I am useing this guy (Ajohn2kinc@aol.com) He does it as a hobby and will check, calibrate, and restore your gauges as well if you want. I met him at Carlise and he checked my gauges for me. All was ok. Then he took my bezel to restore it. I should get my bezel back soon and ill let ya know how it looks if ya want. You can mail him and he will send ya pictures. The ones he sent me that he did look great. He is much cheaper than other places and keeps you posted etc on progress. Good luck Tom
 
GTXperience said:
Some of the methods above look pretty good for a street car but if you decide to have it done properly, I highly suggest sending it to Glenn at GCAR in Washington. You just don't find guys like this is in our hobby any more. He's one of the goodguys. I have had several pieces done by him.

www.gcartrim.com
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The prices from gcartrim.com actually don't seem too bad. I may give them a try.
 
I know this is going to sound stupid but what about the chrome spray paint? What if you spray painted the "chromed" areas of the dash with the chrome paint and then add the wood grain? Would that work?

Joanne
 
soul60s said:
I know this is going to sound stupid but what about the chrome spray paint? What if you spray painted the "chromed" areas of the dash with the chrome paint and then add the wood grain? Would that work?

Joanne
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Worlds finest chrome in a can looks ok when it stands alone. The true chrome on knobs and other parts makes it look like smokey silver spray paint.
 
Easy enough in photoshop. Wont be so simple on the workbench.
switcharoo.jpg


switcharoo.jpg


switcharoo.jpg
 
I've experimented with duplicolor "chrome" quite a bit, looks great right out of the can but doesnt hold up over time....every time its touched or rubbed it loses more of its shine...i've tried clear coating it with just about everything known to man, but any kind of clear attacks it and turnes it gray???? crazy stuff....spray a test panel with it, let it thouroghly dry, you can wipe it completely off with any mild solvent (mineral spirits) even weeks later...very unstable stuff!!!!!
 
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