Ramcharger electrical troubles

[gliderider06]

Good evening folks! I need your brains again. My 87 ramcharger is mad at me for being parked outside while the Duster is taking its garage space...
I have a strange electrical gremlin . Yesterday morning on my way to work, my turn signals weren't working. The dash light would light, but not blink. I figured that a socket got wet and rusted out. (Happened before but I replaced sockets and lenses and fixed it) after work they worked. When i looked at them, I noticed all the lights were a little dim. I figured a wire got wet and was shorting or a bad ground in the turn circuit. Nope. Cleaned ground still the same. After work they were blinking again and i thought the sun dried the wet wire.
This morning I started the beast, checked signal and they were working. (Without headlights on) so i proceed to work. On my way, i noticed when i came to a stop, no blinkers. Let off brake, blinkers work. Check dimmer switch and still does it. I also noticed my wipers are really slow as well. Now when brake is pushed, any lights on the blinkers will not blink. Also when I push on the brake, the radio cuts out until I release the pedal.
Where else should I check? Headlight switch? TS switch? Replace dimmer? Another ground somewhere I am missing?
Sorry about being long winded, just trying to give as much information as possible.
Thanks!

 

[Dana67Dart]

Check the battery voltage while the brakes are on etc.

Also check the voltage at the cig lighter while the symptoms are happening.

From your descriptions it sounded like a really bad connection in the feed to the cirs.

It might show 12v with no load but with a load it might be closer to 7 or 8.

Low voltage would produce all the symptoms you describe.

 

[Ironracer]

Check the battery voltage while the brakes are on etc.

Also check the voltage at the cig lighter while the symptoms are happening.

From your descriptions it sounded like a really bad connection in the feed to the cirs.

It might show 12v with no load but with a load it might be closer to 7 or 8.

Low voltage would produce all the symptoms you describe.

I had to re-read the post. It's really Similar to a TS switch, BUT, the dimming, and being intermittent? Im no auto electrical guy, but I Would Follow Your lead right there!

 

[67Dart273]

I don't know. One problem is I have no documentation on these girls. Where I'd start is poke around in the fuse panel with various loads turned on and off and see what voltages you get. May be a bad connection. "In theory" the brake lights should not affect signals. You might try wiggling the hazard switch which is involved in those circuits.

You might "wiggle test" the bulkhead connector both signals and wiper, and pull the sections apart and inspect for damage, IE corrosion, heat damage, etc.

 

[Ironracer]

I don't know. One problem is I have no documentation on these girls. Where I'd start is poke around in the fuse panel with various loads turned on and off and see what voltages you get. May be a bad connection. "In theory" the brake lights should not affect signals. You might try wiggling the hazard switch which is involved in those circuits.

You might "wiggle test" the bulkhead connector both signals and wiper, and pull the sections apart and inspect for damage, IE corrosion, heat damage, etc.

Sounds down and dirty! Kinda fast way to eliminate "ghosts"... all Y'all here are amazing.... FABO !

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Check the bundle of battery and charging fusible links on the left front inner fender. It’s a weak point that will eventually rear its head and need to be repaired. The wiring going into the molded on connectors on those eventually break down with time and vibration.

 

[Ironracer]

Check the bundle of battery and charging fusible links on the left front inner fender. It’s a weak point that will eventually rear its head and need to be repaired. The wiring going into the molded on connectors on those eventually break down with time and vibration.

And the Good Stuff Keeps Coming!

 

[Dubob]

You said you cleaned grounds on turn signal circuit. But what about battery to block, chassis ground? Sitting outside damp I’d start with making sure all grounds are good. Not sure how the dash grounds to chassis but I’d make sure the instrument cluster and column has good grounds as well. Ground issues cause some weird things. That’s a roll of the dice on my part.

 

[Dustert73]

If you need a wiring schematic I have a FSM for my 83 w150. I can take pictures and send them via email for better quality or upload them here. Don’t think it’d be much different for those circuits

 

[Dustert73]

Dude also make sure your brake pushrod or brake pedal arm isn’t rubbing the harness shorting a wire. If all is good there maybe disconnect the brake switch wires and see if everything works.

 

[70dart340]

Not to over simplify things, but have you checked your flasher unit? They get old, and moisture and wear can interfere with the internal dissimilar metals that cause the flasher swinging metals to corrode or wear out. Just my simple opinion. Looking for the easy, obvious parts failure. More knowledgeable people have replied, but I still believe in KISS.

 

[gliderider06]

You said you cleaned grounds on turn signal circuit. But what about battery to block, chassis ground? Sitting outside damp I’d start with making sure all grounds are good. Not sure how the dash grounds to chassis but I’d make sure the instrument cluster and column has good grounds as well. Ground issues cause some weird things. That’s a roll of the dice on my part.

I was thinking this as well. Looked at my battery ground to body at the buttsplice. I will cut it and solder it today after work. It looked dirty to me. I will actually clean any ground I see. I was looking through my FSM for it and it showed several locations and I will check them all.
In have seen with A/C power dirty grounds or neutrals cause some wonky stuff and I imagine DC power will be similar if the connection are dirty/corroded etc...
Thanks!

 

[gliderider06]

Dude also make sure your brake pushrod or brake pedal arm isn’t rubbing the harness shorting a wire. If all is good there maybe disconnect the brake switch wires and see if everything works.

Thanks! I have an 87 FSM I was looking through last night. I'm going to clean and solder a few ground connections and then check under the dash if its still acting up. Thanks, I'll report back later on.

 

[gliderider06]

Found a few things at the battery. I ran a new ground from battery to body. #8 Wire from positive terminal into main harness was all cracked and exposed. I heat shrunk it. #14 fusible link needed replacement. Still carried current though.
Still didn't fix anything, but I feel better that I fixed some things.

 

[67Dart273]

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiikkkkkkkkkkkkkkeeeeeeeeeeeeSssssssssssssss!!!!!!

That is some "ratty" looking wiring!!!

 

[Dana67Dart]

The red wire looks like it got really hot.

Same with the fuse link

 

[Garrett Ellison]

You're going to have to replace that whole mess of fusible links and wiring and eliminate/simplify as much as possible. Those molded on plugs are internally cooked. Seen (And Done!) it more than once.

 

[gliderider06]

So the orange fusible link feeds the ignition switch. #16 DB feeds the headlight switch. I'll be making a trip to Napa tomorrow for more fusible link.

 

[gliderider06]

The red wire looks like it got really hot.

Same with the fuse link

Agreed. That's what I found when I peeled the plastic sheath back. Going to replace the fusible links next.

 

[67Dart273]

Oh hell I didn't know you have a manual for the thing. That has to be a big help

LOLOL!! What is that note ??? about FAA and all alternators used on aircraft??

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Dodge had done so well with the electrical in the trucks from '81 and up until they went with the TBI and added "All That" into the harness. I haven't done one yet (so far it has been new links and splices, too) but an external or positive post mounted fuse panel in place of all the fusible links and splices might be a big help.

 

[gliderider06]

Oh hell I didn't know you have a manual for the thing. That has to be a big help

LOLOL!! What is that note ??? about FAA and all alternators used on aircraft??

I love the FSM! It has been the best $25.00 I had spent on my Ramcharger. It definitely eliminates a lot of guesswork out of it.

 

[Rudy`s Ride]

The ignition switch may be warn or dirty. On my Ramcharger sometimes my acc would work and next start they would'nt. Just something else you may want to check. Mike

 

[RustyRatRod]

Aside from the cooked wires (that seem to still conduct), this sounds to me like a classic case of bad grounds and loose or bad connections. I would go over every plug on that thing pull them apart, inspect and clean as necessary, put some dielectric grease in and move to the next. Won't hurt a thing and you may just find something.

 

[Mattax]

Where else should I check?

With everything dimming and/or running slower when you turn on more stuff, what Garret and others posted about checking power supply is good place to begin.
What does the ammeter show when these items are turned on?
Also if you have a voltmeter, check the voltage at the alternator and then downstream where ever you can access, such as battery positive, cigar lighter or at the lamps.

Check the battery voltage while the brakes are on etc.

Also check the voltage at the cig lighter while the symptoms are happening.

From your descriptions it sounded like a really bad connection in the feed to the cirs.

That or power supply is limited because the battery is low or the alternator is not producing at 14 Volts.

I'm suggesting make sure the battery is fully charged and the alternator is producing power. Hence checking the ammeter to see if the battery is supplying power when the brake lights are on with the other stuff, as well as checking voltage.