Re-installing damper on 383.

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LovetheA's

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I’m at the point where I need to reinstall the damper on my 383 after making some upgrades. I used a puller to get it off with no probs. Should I just pony up and buy the correct install tool so I don’t damage anything? I have also been reading and many say to lightly grease up the end shaft it will slide onto. Also some are saying to put a small amount of rtv silicone on the keyway to prevent any future drips. Is it best to measure how far the damper will slide on and tighten to that point or just press on with the damper installation tool until I reach the suggested ft-lbs? What is the suggested ft-lbs for factory damper installation? If I do buy a tool I’m want one that has some adaptability and doesn’t just fit b/rb mopars.
Carl
 
Buy the installer. Clean both the crank and the balancer. I use a little 30wt engine oil as install lube. NO sealers or anything. Install until it bottoms out.
 
I have sold many installers and used them to install. The best way to go.
 
I do it the old school way, tap it on with a piece of wood and ballpeen hammer, then use the bolt and an impact to seat it. I always use a piece of wood that only contacts the inner portion of the dampner so that the rubber ring doesn't get moved. Been doing it for 40 years with no issues.
 
Lightly tap it down from the center until you can get 3 or 4 full turns on the Damper bolt, then just draw it the rest of the way with that.
40 plus years of doing this, including Top Fuel Dragsters, and it never even occurred to me that I should use any sort of special tool.
 
IMO beating it on can damage the thrust bearing. Just got done installing last night.
balancer installer 2.jpg


balancer installer.jpg

Good luck!
 
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Lightly tap it down from the center until you can get 3 or 4 full turns on the Damper bolt, then just draw it the rest of the way with that.
40 plus years of doing this, including Top Fuel Dragsters, and it never even occurred to me that I should use any sort of special tool.
THANK YOU !
 
I do it the old school way, tap it on with a piece of wood and ballpeen hammer, then use the bolt and an impact to seat it. I always use a piece of wood that only contacts the inner portion of the dampner so that the rubber ring doesn't get moved. Been doing it for 40 years with no issues.

On big blocks I use a small block bolt to pull it on until I can get multiple threads started on the short big block bolt. Small blocks get knocked on a bit with a rubber mallet.
 
While working with my mentor at his home, on his Max Wedge back in the 60's, I had asked about the install tool.
He was quick to point out that many breeds, particularly the early 60's Chev 6 cyl, and the small V-8s didn't have a drilled and tapped crank snout, and no bolt was required. ( Which I found out later, first hand)
The recommended install was to pound the "pulley flange" on till seated.
My mentor also noted the thrust washer was supported by the heavily webbed rear block, as we're the GMs.
I've been tapping them on with a hammer and block till I could get the bolt started ever since.
The logic seemed infallable.
 
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For years I used the wood block and hammer, ive also used the small block bolt on the big block to get it going, but I think the best way is with the installer. I just made my own
 
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