Rear axle assembly - reccomendation?

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MRGTX

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Ok, guys. I have gotten some great advice on this forum but so far, looked at several options (both in person and on line) but for multiple reasons, I haven't bought one yet and I'm back with my hat in my hands to ask for advice on a slightly new direction.

I'm leaning strongly towards just writing a check for something off the shelf rather than pulling one from the junk yard and rebuilding it.

The following are my criteria but if anyone has ever purchased something similar, your experiences (and opinion of the vendor/product) would be HUGELY appreciated.


-Limited slip (no locker)
-3.73, 3.90 or 4.10 ratio
-strong enough for a healthy small block that may get slicks at some point.
-large bolt pattern axles

Here's where it gets tricky. These are "wants" but not requiremens:

-Possibly narrower than stock width (if that might allow an extra inch of rubber!) but I'd rather not have to move spring perches... perhaps that's not even possible...

-Doesn't have to be a Mopar axle. I looked at the Ford Explorer axle assembly options but I'm not up for cutting/welding, fabricating parking brake system, etc.

-Disk brakes (if feasible)?

-But....I'd like it to be more or less "plug and play." I have an absurdly full schedule (like an idiot, I went back to school... :violent1: ) and if it requires any serious labor, it will take me years to get through it.

Am I totally off my rocker?
Where would you start looking?

Thanks a million to anyone with a lead. :prayer:
 
I dont know why everyone seems to think they need a new rear to get bigger tires under there car, there are hundreds of wheel choices in many offsets to accomplish this . The real equalizer is the wheel well , you need to determine how big of a tire the wheel well can accept.
 
I have a 8 1/4 I could build with disks and used 4.11 gears, just need the suregrip if needed for around 1000. Depends on the suregrip price.
 
I dont know why everyone seems to think they need a new rear to get bigger tires under there car, there are hundreds of wheel choices in many offsets to accomplish this . The real equalizer is the wheel well , you need to determine how big of a tire the wheel well can accept.

This is great info...it's a matter of offset, right?

Any leads on where to learn about A-Body Duster/Demon/Sport wheel wells and what offsets might best accomplish this?

I'm not sure if this is going to help me that much anway...I really want this car to look like it could be a daily-driven car from the mid-70s. No modern looking wheels for me, thanks. Perhaps a set of correctly widened OEM steelies would do the job?
 
I have a 8 1/4 I could build with disks and used 4.11 gears, just need the suregrip if needed for around 1000. Depends on the suregrip price.

I appreciate that but I've consistently been steered away from 8.25" due to the C-clips, availability of components, etc...also, they're not as stout as an 8.75, no? I'm thinking that slicks might spell the end of one of those.
 
This is great info...it's a matter of offset, right?

Any leads on where to learn about A-Body Duster/Demon/Sport wheel wells and what offsets might best accomplish this?

Yes, the offset is key. More information is available in a thread here @ FABO.

I appreciate that but I've consistently been steered away from 8.25" due to the C-clips, availability of components, etc...also, they're not as stout as an 8.75, no? I'm thinking that slicks might spell the end of one of those.

The 8-1/4 gets a bad rap due to the size and C-clips. While C-clips can fail, it is when there under abuse there limitations arise. If the car is going to spend a lot of time with slicks and at the track, something larger may be a good move. Normal and occasional spirited driving is fine.
I have not noticed a shortage of components or selection of ratios. These rear can hold 400HP all day long. While the 8-3/4 is a much more stout part, the price is reflected.

No matter what rear you use, there is something some one could point at as a short coming.
What is the intended power level?
 
This is great info...it's a matter of offset, right?

Any leads on where to learn about A-Body Duster/Demon/Sport wheel wells and what offsets might best accomplish this?

I'm not sure if this is going to help me that much anway...I really want this car to look like it could be a daily-driven car from the mid-70s. No modern looking wheels for me, thanks. Perhaps a set of correctly widened OEM steelies would do the job?

I HEAR YOU! I have not had any problems with mine so far on the street behind a 440. You can get a tracklok and the gears and disks from a 90's Cherokee and throw them in a 8 1/4 carrier if you want. You can get the rears all over the place and just have to look at the ratios. My 3.73 came out of one. Hope it helps.
 
Dana 60. Do it once and never worry about it again. Ever.
 
Dana 60. Do it once and never worry about it again. Ever.

This /\ /\ /\


I went with strange and got the Tru-trac (s-trac). Not a locker, not a limited slip.

I got wilwood discs. Big bolt pattern and had it narrowed so I could run deep dish wheels.
 

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Demon/Duster/Dart Sport put a B body 55" flange to flange 8 3/4 in it with perches relocated to 43". 5 to 5.5 backspace will work to center center tire in the wheel well and still have plenty of clearance for stock A body leaf springs.
 
Don't be quick to dismiss the 8.8 explorer. It's really not that bad. A couple minutes with a cut-off wheel and the old perches are off. A couple more minutes with a flap wheel and it's ready for the new mounts. Put an ad out on craigslist and I'm sure you could find a decent welder to weld the new perches on for you. I just got my cousin to do it since he does it for a living and bought him dinner and a beer. The whole process barely took a day. I'm leaving mine at the stock length, that's really only a problem for models that don't have the Duster rear. You probably won't be able to run 10 inch rims but 8's shouldn't be an issue. My plan is to run P275/60s in the back with 5.5' backspacing
 
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