superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Well the good thing is that my engine builder checked my block and told me I could save $75.00 as it didn't need line honing, so we should be good there.
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Rear Main Seal
- Thread starter superchargeddrt
- Start date
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Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
I need the special tool to install those one piece seals on my mopar
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Do you know the history of the block? If not, it may have been lined honed before. Personally I line hone everything. There is no reason to start a build with the main line not being perfect. It's also how I set the bearing clearances.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
I have steel rounds for most motors the size of the housing
I can do a quick "see how they spin" test
if they lock up then line bore or line hone
I can do a quick "see how they spin" test
if they lock up then line bore or line hone
Glen,
I have an engine start stand I built for a small block mopar.
When I built it, it was a stand alone system with radiator, electric fan, full gauges, charge system, start system and run.
You are more welcome to borrow it, but I robbed about everything except a set of motor mounts, bellhousing and neautral balance flywheel. You would have to add your own wiring, cooling, gauges etc.
Its basically just a square tubing frame on casters, with the mounts for everything.
That would allow you to check everything before putting it back in the car.
I have an engine start stand I built for a small block mopar.
When I built it, it was a stand alone system with radiator, electric fan, full gauges, charge system, start system and run.
You are more welcome to borrow it, but I robbed about everything except a set of motor mounts, bellhousing and neautral balance flywheel. You would have to add your own wiring, cooling, gauges etc.
Its basically just a square tubing frame on casters, with the mounts for everything.
That would allow you to check everything before putting it back in the car.
Here is a pic before I took it apart.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Wow, that's really cool of you. I will let you know, thanks again!
Better than guessing if you have the oil leak fixed, plus I have no use for it.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Pretty damn nice of you sireland. Love to see one FABO member helping another.
THANK YOU
j par
Well-hung Member
HELP!!!! ....LOL
Its nothing, he hooked me up with his old supercharger off his car.
j par
Well-hung Member
HOOK ME UP!!!!
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
That's why I love this Forum. Joining here was one of the best movies I've ever made. The people on here are second to none.
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
Holy crap Glenn! Wondered where the he'll you've been......Sorry about all the problems, but we've all been there buddy.
How did the leak start after all those dyno pulls?
If you haven't bought one yet, call Rick at Superformance. He MIGHT have a couple of his pink ones left. By far the best rear main seal I have ever used. Never saw one leak, if installed properly.
If you need any help call me anytime!
How did the leak start after all those dyno pulls?
If you haven't bought one yet, call Rick at Superformance. He MIGHT have a couple of his pink ones left. By far the best rear main seal I have ever used. Never saw one leak, if installed properly.
If you need any help call me anytime!
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Thanks Mike,
Larry and I are working on it on Saturday if you're interested in stopping by. I will text you my address. I already have a seal but if you think that the Superformance seal is that muck superior then I have no problem ordering one.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Well I talked with Greg at Suerformance today, really nice guy, we talked for about 15 minutes and I did order one of his main deals. I will let everyone know how it works out.
rigger3006
Well-Known Member
i recently opened up my 72 340, PO had bent back corner of windage tray to get at bolt,wasnt pretty but i guess it worked for him, i just bent it back into place.just a thought
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
Well this is probably gonna cause a controversy. Here goes:
Glenn, make sure you "clock" the seal so about a quarter inch is out of the block on one end and the cap on the other side. A tiny tiny bit of silicone on the end surface.
In other words, you don't want the seal joint to be right at the cap/block joint. That opens the door for a leak. Learned this from a Jedi Master about 40 years ago........
I have NEVER put an engine together with a rear main leak, weep, drip, or otherwise. Helluva lot of other crap but.......Well you know....
Glenn, make sure you "clock" the seal so about a quarter inch is out of the block on one end and the cap on the other side. A tiny tiny bit of silicone on the end surface.
In other words, you don't want the seal joint to be right at the cap/block joint. That opens the door for a leak. Learned this from a Jedi Master about 40 years ago........
I have NEVER put an engine together with a rear main leak, weep, drip, or otherwise. Helluva lot of other crap but.......Well you know....
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Thanks Mike,Well this is probably gonna cause a controversy. Here goes:
Glenn, make sure you "clock" the seal so about a quarter inch is out of the block on one end and the cap on the other side. A tiny tiny bit of silicone on the end surface.
In other words, you don't want the seal joint to be right at the cap/block joint. That opens the door for a leak. Learned this from a Jedi Master about 40 years ago........
I have NEVER put an engine together with a rear main leak, weep, drip, or otherwise. Helluva lot of other crap but.......Well you know....
I had a lengthy conversation with Greg. He says if I am going to clock the seal to not go more than 3/8". GE also said NO SILCONE on the seal except for a small amount of Ultra Black on the separate end pieces. I am going to be working in the garage tomorrow if you want to join us.
Ironmike
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I meant. I use Ultra Gray myself, but either way just a very thin coat on the ends only.
Love to pop over, but have to do some honey-do crap I've been promising for a year.
DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
Make sure that the crankcase can breath or it will continue to leak, I’m sure someone already mentioned it but thought I would re-mention it. Hope this cures it. Good luck
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Okay,
So here's the update. Larry and I got the engine out of the car yesterday. We remove the oil pan, windage tray, oil pump and main bearing cap. The seal looked like it was installed correctly with the larger end facing towards the front of the engine and it appears to be in good shape. We removed the old seal, meticulously cleaned the main bearing cap and installed the new seal from Superformance. Everything is back together now and engine is ready to go back into the car. I am going to remove the distributor and prime with a drill to look for a leak before I install it back into the car. I will let you guys know what happens.
So here's the update. Larry and I got the engine out of the car yesterday. We remove the oil pan, windage tray, oil pump and main bearing cap. The seal looked like it was installed correctly with the larger end facing towards the front of the engine and it appears to be in good shape. We removed the old seal, meticulously cleaned the main bearing cap and installed the new seal from Superformance. Everything is back together now and engine is ready to go back into the car. I am going to remove the distributor and prime with a drill to look for a leak before I install it back into the car. I will let you guys know what happens.
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Ironmike
Well-Known Member
The "helical" markings toward oil, right? It's easy to get Greg's in backwards....
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