Rear Main Seal

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Well this is probably gonna cause a controversy. Here goes:

Glenn, make sure you "clock" the seal so about a quarter inch is out of the block on one end and the cap on the other side. A tiny tiny bit of silicone on the end surface.

In other words, you don't want the seal joint to be right at the cap/block joint. That opens the door for a leak. Learned this from a Jedi Master about 40 years ago........
I have NEVER put an engine together with a rear main leak, weep, drip, or otherwise. Helluva lot of other crap but.......Well you know....:thumbsup:
Hi Mike,
Yep, I clocked it and it's back together. We are going to try to get it back into the Dart today AFTER I use a priming shaft to run the oil pump while it's on the stand, fingers crossed.
 
I don't think just priming the engine will check for a rear seal leak.
I believe you need rotational force of the crank, and crank case pressure to truly see if it leaks.
I.E. engine running.
 
I don't think just priming the engine will check for a rear seal leak.
I believe you need rotational force of the crank, and crank case pressure to truly see if it leaks.
I.E. engine running.
Well I didn't see any leaks but we have it in the car and are just finishing up the exhaust and other miscellaneous connections. We should have ot running in a couple of hours, stay tuned.
 
Okay,
So here's the update. After getting the engine back into the car we started it up to find it STILL smoking Arrrgh. BUT after letting it run for a few minutes the smoke cleared and I could hear the Angel's voices ahhhhhh! Only time will tell for sure and were gonna need to take a test ride. Now, for some unknown reason the engine is idling like dog crap. The Fitech's IAC counts are about 160 at idle and the idle quality is not good. I might have a vacuum leak but it was getting late in the day and I didn't want to be running it with that 3" exhaust and ruining the neighbor's Saturday evening. I will try to troubleshoot later today. I will keep you posted.
 
Well after starting the Dart today it was idling awful and my under dash 02 gauge was reading 13.2 (pig rich). I checked my fault codes and I had several which I cleared. My IAC counts were still reading 160. I tried tightening the throttle body bolts, no change, reinstalled my ground strap, no change. Finally I noticed that my AFR on the FiTech was at 14.7 and was stuck there. I've had this before so I did what I did to cure it last time, disconnect the battery. After 10 minutes I reconnected the battery and tried it, still stuck at 14.7. I disconnected the battery again but this time I shorted the positive and negative cables together using jumper cables. I started it back up and VIOLA! AFR is now reading and throttle response is back. I will take it for a ride tomorrow and let you guys know what happens.
 
I will try to drive it tomorrow as long as the weather is good. I just don't have it in me today. We we're working in the garage all day yesterday and I am in recuperation mode.
 
I'll call your attention to "Chrysler Slant-Six and Big Block RearSeal Leaks by Doug Anderson
"On the Ragged Edge" series Enginetech "The Edge" May 1990
 
Alright,
So I got impatient and decided to take the Dart for a ride. All I can say is that it's a reformed smoker. No one wift of smoke. It's running great and no leaks! The only thing that I need your opinion on is that the oil pressure before I changed the main seal was about 30 psi at idle and 70 psi at about 5500 RPM. Now I have around 60 psi hot at idle and 90 psi at 5500 RPM. I have the Mopar Performance high volume oil pump. The only things s I changed were the main seal and the o-ring for my remote oil filter adapter (which I found was also leaking). Do you think that replacing the seal and o-ring could be account for the increased oil pressure? By the way, I am running Castrol full synthetic 10W 30 oil.
 
Aaaah, it is amazing how things like that will make us more energetic.... Very good news! Worth the effort.

As for the pressure, that HV pump should have a 70-72 psi relief spring in it. And, 10W30 synthetic ought to be pretty moderate for pressure. Hope the oil pump was not 'addled' during R&R....
- Rear seal? No way I can imagine.
- O ring? Anything messed up in the filter setup now?

I think I would first suspect the sensor. It this a mechanical or electrical gauge?

Roller cam, I hope?
 
Aaaah, it is amazing how things like that will make us more energetic.... Very good news! Worth the effort.

As for the pressure, that HV pump should have a 70-72 psi relief spring in it. And, 10W30 synthetic ought to be pretty moderate for pressure. Hope the oil pump was not 'addled' during R&R....
- Rear seal? No way I can imagine.
- O ring? Anything messed up in the filter setup now?

I think I would first suspect the sensor. It this a mechanical or electrical gauge?

Roller cam, I hope?
Electronic gauge and yes it is a roller cam. It ran at 70 psi before removal. I didn't change the pump, maybe it has something to do with the electronic oil pressure sensor or the wiring to it. I will check tomorrow. Anyway I am thrilled to have the oil leaks stopped
 
OK, on the cam.. just checkin' with the probable lower ZDDP levels of that lighter weight oil.
 
Still dry?
Looks like I will be doing mine in the next few weeks as well.
 
Started pulling it apart. Gonna call Greg tomorrow for a seal. What did it run you with shipping? No prices in his catalog.
How long did it take to get it?
 
I think it was $29.00 shipped to my house in Butler. Pa. Good Luck, let me know if I can help.

Greg has no more 360 main seals and will not be getting anymore.
I asked about the next best option, he said try to find a Viton seal.

Any suggestions guys?
I see Cometic has one for a Magnum, are LA and magnum seals the same?
 
Greg has no more 360 main seals and will not be getting anymore.
I asked about the next best option, he said try to find a Viton seal.

Any suggestions guys?
I see Cometic has one for a Magnum, are LA and magnum seals the same?


So Superformance isn't making any more 360 main seals? That seems incredible to me.
 
So Superformance isn't making any more 360 main seals? That seems incredible to me.
He said the manufacturer quit along with many other lines like Buick and Cadillac, that he is losing a huge chunk of his business.

Any reccomendations YR?
 
He said the manufacturer quit along with many other lines like Buick and Cadillac, that he is losing a huge chunk of his business.

Any reccomendations YR?

Nope. That was who I liked. That is unreal.

Looks like the way this is going to go. Parts like we want are losing market share very second of every day.

Next thing you know, we will be begging Egge to make parts. It's a dying industry, and the Chrysler stuff will be first in the ground along with the likes of Buick and Caddy.

Damn that sucks hard.

Another reason I want to sell all I have. I can see where it's going. Time to liquidate and keep my losses to the minimum.
 
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