rear seal removal was a breeze!!!!!

[Vali68]

I thought this was going to be real hard to get out. but I was able to take off the rear seal cap and remove the rear mian seal from this motor very easy. I found a nut driver that was the same diameter as the seal. So what I did was hit a few times real soft with my rubber mallet. The bearing that was inside the motor after removing the cap jsut came right out!!!!!!
Now I hope when o go to put in the new one, it is just as easy. Should I lube the seal before trying to push it into the bearing seat?

This is on a Slant6 225/3.7L motor. helps when the motor is out of the car and on an engine stand upside down. lol.

 

[BillGrissom]

I wouldn't lube the outer surface of the seal, just the inner lip where the crankshaft slides. Indeed, I think you want very clean metal against the rubber body. I have pushed rag thru w/ a stiff wire, after soaking the rag in ethanol.

I think you need a small drop of SuperGlue on each mating face of the seal so it doesn't leak thru the gap. It can also leak oil thru the metal gap around the seal. I think you are supposed to seal that w/ "anaerobic sealant", which I think is just high-temp SuperGlue. As I recall, the slant seal housing is aluminum so be real careful not to strip the threads. You might want to try to find a slant manual from the 80's. When the original 60's manuals were written, there might not have been more modern sealants available.

 

[805moparkid]

I wouldn't lube the outer surface of the seal, just the inner lip where the crankshaft slides. Indeed, I think you want very clean metal against the rubber body. I have pushed rag thru w/ a stiff wire, after soaking the rag in ethanol.

I think you need a small drop of SuperGlue on each mating face of the seal so it doesn't leak thru the gap. It can also leak oil thru the metal gap around the seal. I think you are supposed to seal that w/ "anaerobic sealant", which I think is just high-temp SuperGlue. As I recall, the slant seal housing is aluminum so be real careful not to strip the threads. You might want to try to find a slant manual from the 80's. When the original 60's manuals were written, there might not have been more modern sealants available.

the cap is aluminum just like the 440 and like the 440 it only has threaded holes for the oil pan, thru holes and threads in the block.

 

[Chuck Valiant]

A good read - Main Seal Installation and Oil Pan Sealing

 

[cjh]

Your lucky it's a rubber one.....not so easy when it's a rope seal.