Refurb upper control arms

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering and Chassis' started by MObarracuda, Oct 27, 2018.

  1. MObarracuda

    MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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    I purchased a spare set of small UCA and I’m in the process of refurbishing them. Here are the steps I went through

    Soaked them in apple cider vinager for a week (I started a new job and I got busy)
    E51B4C2C-4C4C-41E7-B5A7-5BC264D3CBDB.jpeg

    Just coming out of the vinager the rust was falling off to bare metal.

    7887C8AC-78C3-4A3F-8FF7-7A139AC86495.jpeg 5EFBD940-E04E-45A5-8934-BC7A3C7D3230.jpeg

    A quick rinse by the garden hose and 80% of the rust rinsed off.

    8C08FD6D-2208-4D37-A080-B5D74A0AC3C9.jpeg 59E8ACC5-584E-4FDC-A599-E6ECA7E66E05.jpeg

    I made my own bushing tool from instructions found on this site using grade 8 bolt, a old piece of pipe and a 21mm socket (I never used the metric stuff until now)
    8198D25D-5588-4E9D-A317-A809A1D211B9.jpeg 4B277D85-9B0E-44F7-8F82-A65ECC2AD201.jpeg

    Coat the nut and washers with grease to reduce the friction 633E74CB-A4BA-4345-A872-1721187AFFA8.jpeg 01837FCD-3073-41E7-84D6-1BB2A691C2A7.jpeg

    I will continue the post as FABO only alows 10 pictures per upload.
     
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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    • MObarracuda

      MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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      The removal of the bushings was a snap with the bushing press. Use grease to minimize the wear on the press A4DEA892-E048-4B15-A7D4-9CA8C9F2FCC4.jpeg BC85EA58-A113-47A8-968C-0158F7C02221.jpeg D887DBBB-3E46-44E8-AC5D-31B30738E8F2.jpeg 13786BEE-750E-47B4-B4D3-09DFC4840C93.jpeg C05A4A4E-E620-4561-8954-D4ECEA25A44A.jpeg 13F0106F-D95F-43BE-AB8E-D99AAABE0B71.jpeg

      The tool doesn’t has to be pretty but make sure the pipe sits flush and flat inside the formed edge of the UCA.

      B75E4E5A-2C46-4730-9916-3EB102051C35.jpeg D7846DEB-4EE9-420B-95CA-0E7CFFAFDF58.jpeg 28D1B8E3-68A9-4507-AABB-0703DCC64AD1.jpeg

      I could not find full thread bolts so I used a hammer to pop the bushing out the last little bit.

      6A756CC6-E87D-46D8-B93D-FC4FA928D8B0.jpeg
       
      Last edited: Oct 27, 2018
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      • Arron tate

        Arron tate 1973 H code Duster

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        Nice write up along with picture’s and easy to understand follow along instructions.
        Wish more people would be to the point with on target facts.
        Thanks
        Happy Mopar :)
        Arron
         
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        • dartfreak75

          dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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          Nice job!! Those look good! I like the bushings press! I used a ball joint press on mine. I cant believe how good that vinegar did. I used a wire wheel and brake cleaner and it did get them that clean. Nice job bud! Cant wait to see them painted.
           
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          • MObarracuda

            MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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            Here are the reassembly pictures I promised.

            I just reversed the tool to the inside of the UCA and added a bunch of fender washers to allow me to pull the bushing into its mated slot. I greased the UCA and wiped out the majority of the grease to make sure I didn’t have any dirt or grit in the flanged hole.
            22153FE1-101A-4F90-AA2B-3C2C50F1DEA3.jpeg
            CD6D69DB-73BD-485D-A809-7E3AD7BB14A5.jpeg

            I used the offset bushings from Moog part number K7103. Here is what was in the box. I like the caps for the ends of the bushings. They will help distribute the load to the offset bushings and the VCI (volitail crosion inhibitor) paper added to the bussing bags to stop rust while they are in the box.

            2E72C8A5-52C1-4824-ADAF-6F9006C8EB93.jpeg
            E33B430D-CB57-4E9D-B3DB-7EE31C681F22.jpeg

            I ignored the instructions that were in the box below and followed the second picture I found on FABO showing the orientation of the arrows for maximum Caster.

            (Skip the Moog instructions you find in the box...see next photo)
            C3F21888-DDED-4DC9-943A-A66FC5F5DDC7.jpeg

            Use this one found on FABO....the the bump stop side of the UCA is the front of the car.
            98FE440B-8CE3-4815-A35F-EDFDB660BB69.jpeg

            EA2DFB7F-D91D-4055-8260-368788FC912B.jpeg

            32DEFAE2-00DF-4B49-A8A4-B8E98CF9FD5F.jpeg
             
            Last edited: Oct 29, 2018
          • MObarracuda

            MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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            The guy I purchased the UCA arms shipped me his new Mevotech small ball joint (MK704). I was not impressed with Mevotech ball joints. They are a good company and they sell to NAPA direct but the boot was thinner than Moog, the grease zert was tiny compared to the Moog part K704 and the Mevotech threads were not as tall and as well designed in shape and diameter as the Moog product.

            Moog made in america (white/yellow box and Mevotech (blue box) from Taiwan

            4EEF2BFE-3179-4355-AFD2-6AEFB04E284C.jpeg

            Difference in the ball joint boot

            7A3BADBC-E922-4E04-AA3C-C4C93E77FA11.jpeg

            Cheaper hardware in the Mevotech box

            4FA35B6B-01A3-49DC-A945-4BD9CB7D1B69.jpeg

            Close up of the boot metal ring on the Moog D274B721-0C75-44D0-8302-B4E76899047A.jpeg

            Moog threads
            E2D6F787-F829-4130-8FA8-16EFB86BA94D.jpeg

            Mevotech threads E7D3A559-49CE-4422-AA27-77CD7B262E9F.jpeg

            Side by side. Moog bottom and Meveotech top AAE84FF2-9EEA-4C70-8BC0-AEFEFC80C817.jpeg

            I liked the Moog product better although the moog’s didn’t achieve tourqe in the old UCAs. I did notice the Moog were easier to thread over the Mevotech part with their rounded profile thread pitch.
             
            Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
          • dartfreak75

            dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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            Your doing a great job! Keep up the good work! This is a great walk thru for first timers. I have the moog offset bushings also I have not installed them yet. So basically on the front of the uca the arrow points to the ball joint and the rear it points to the car?
            I have skp ball joints upper and lower. I dont see much difference other than the boot from the moog ball joint I'm sure either will be fine.
             
          • MObarracuda

            MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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            Dartfreak75 this is my first rebuild of Upper control arms. Every thing has been pretty straight forward except for not achieving tourqe and welding the ball joints to the UCA.

            You had two questions. 1) yes the arrow points towards the tire or ball joint on the front bushing and the rear bushing points towards the engine.

            21817BB8-4F84-4C3D-8D69-14835D1E3DFC.jpeg

            As for choices between brands I’m sure they are all comparable coming out of the box. #1 cause of early failure to a ball joint is contamination that is why I like the HD boots on the Moogs.
             
            Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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            • MObarracuda

              MObarracuda Well-Known Member

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              Finished product. I used PPG paints. I started with an epoxy based two part primer for two coats and then three coats of satin black mixed the 8:1:1 ratio for pigment, hardner and thinner. The “satin” looks pretty glossy to me. Probably has something to do with the hardner, my mix might have been off and that is why they gave so much gloss.

              5CEF588D-3CF9-4C44-89DD-94A4CDA4CFE4.jpeg

              I still have to snug up the grease zerts and I may hit the top of the ball joint with clear while I’m waiting for more parts to arrive. It is like Mopar-UPS Christmas all the time at my house.
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              I like how the metal at the bottom of the Moog dust boot snapped on to the base of the ball joint. Makes for a clean install.
              887A25BB-3BBD-4581-8DD7-F46ABFFEE4E7.jpeg

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              Last edited: Oct 28, 2018
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              • mopar505

                mopar505 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                looks solid........ moog all the way.
                 
              • dartfreak75

                dartfreak75 Well-Known Member

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                Looks great. Great job