Like to see some pics where you guys mounting your remote oil filters,get some ideas.
340 '69 Dart it's a drag car only.
Thanks
340 '69 Dart it's a drag car only.
Thanks
Remote Filter Mounting
- Thread starter SBeeMan
- Start date
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j par
Well-hung Member
I put a remote filter on my car when I dedicated it to the track and built the new Stroker motor. It seem to always have some kind of itty bitty seep and was always suspect for me too cause a leak and a problem. I eventually just took it back off and used it 0 9 0 Mopar filter from Walmart. I mean it's what I used with the remote filter anyways. I thought I was going to stop pouring oil on my headers and things like that when I change the oil, but it was still a messed up on the fender wall. And again like it was more potential for disaster. All four hoses are another potential for a leak as well as another sealing point.
Thanks for the reply J par.
I had the same thoughts about ease of filter changes,oil on headers etc. Ran one for years on my big block car & liked it.
Agree it could just be the cause of potential leaks,so I'm rethinking using it for sure.
I had the same thoughts about ease of filter changes,oil on headers etc. Ran one for years on my big block car & liked it.
Agree it could just be the cause of potential leaks,so I'm rethinking using it for sure.
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
I'm getting ready to put one in. I'm thinking that this area / orientation would work well for me and hopefully keep oil spills to a minimum. Decided to ditch the "push on" hoses and will go with AN mainly for the ability to remove\install the hoses. 2 short hoses bent around #8 header tube should be simple enough. I think.
j par
Well-hung Member
So you really think that angle there is going to make oil spills less? I'm going to have to have you let me know how you're going to pull that oil filter off upside down and not have oil gush out everywhere? I mounted mine up on the fender wall just above that sideways. Tried to like cut out a plastic milk jugs to slip underneath it and still it's just a mess and more potential for disaster.
I had mine mounted there,just a little higher up & flipped over to remove the filter,used AN fittings & hose.
Still got some oil spill on the frame & headers.
I was thinking of moving it to the frame rail.
Still got some oil spill on the frame & headers.
I was thinking of moving it to the frame rail.
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
Haven't nailed down all the details, but I'm thinking that if (if nothing else) a hole was pierced in the top of the filter would oil not flow out of the filter down at least one of the hoses since it's all higher than the oil pan?. That would drain most of the oil in the filter before cracking it.
I'm also toying with the idea of installing a drip pan of sorts between the remote filter fitting and the inner fender, to catch all of the last oil dribbles when cracking the filter. If I can figure out a little pan for under there, I'd even fit a drain hose to it to catch the oil below somewhere. Maybe the back half of a washer fluid bottle. Hmm.
No, not on drugs. Just retired with time on my hands.
I'm also toying with the idea of installing a drip pan of sorts between the remote filter fitting and the inner fender, to catch all of the last oil dribbles when cracking the filter. If I can figure out a little pan for under there, I'd even fit a drain hose to it to catch the oil below somewhere. Maybe the back half of a washer fluid bottle. Hmm.
No, not on drugs. Just retired with time on my hands.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
Ditch the Fram Filter.
On my Dakota truck... I moved the oil filter to under the front passenger door.
Still trying to figure out where I might put it on my Duster.
Still trying to figure out where I might put it on my Duster.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
How about the Trunk? Just throwing the idea out there and see if it sticks?
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
That's helpful. I never thought of the trunk.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
No charge for my idea. That's a freebie!
When you remove the filter, it is going to dump oil all over the place. Hang it so you screw the filter on from below the thingamadoodle.
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
So the oil wouldn't drain from the filter back to the block if a hole was punched in the top of the filter and the pan was drained?
sccachallenger
Well-Known Member
That's how I've mounted mine, used some hoses a buddy gave me off an old ford PI.
Not that messy, put whatever you're catching the oil in under the filter and just loosen enough to allow the oil to leak out. After it stops gushing, unscrew filter the rest of the way. If you're quick with a shop towel under the mount you won't have much to wipe up. I've used old plastic microwave meal trays to catch the oil. They hold up very well to hot oil!
diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Reminds me of an old NASCAR driver (can't remember the name now)
But he was one who would read the rule book and look for loopholes
He had found out there was a limit to I.D. for fuel line, but not for total length, so he mounted a bunch of it to the bottom of the frame, enough to net him an extra gallon or two over everyone else on a full tank
Point being, what do you think the ful oil capacity of that system would be with the filter in the trunk?
And a second thought, would there be a pressure drop because of this?
justinp61
Well-Known Member
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Unless it's just been running very little oil runs out of mine when changing it. I just lay a rag under it and try not to drop the filter, there may be a few drops from the housing but that's all.
SLC Duster Dude
Well-Known Member
When I bought my Duster it had a remote filter and worked fine until I tore everything down for a new top end including new headers. After I reinstalled it, it leaked. After having it on and off 4 times I replaced it with a Hayden unit from O'Rielly's and it leaks. Now I'm seeing it isn't needed?? Can you remove the filter from the top? Because if the only reason for the remote filter is leaking oil on the headers when you change the oil I'm going back to that method. I'm getting very tired of taking the headers off trying to fix this leak.
Mounting the filter up and down with screwing it downwards
I have not seen any pressure drop in mine. Hose length is 8 feet one way. The 8 feet back.
NASCAR drivers name also escapes me but he used a bunch of loins. I heard a reported extra 5 gallons of fuel. Very creative and sneaky. (Depends if your a fan or competitor I guess. LOL! )
I have not seen any pressure drop in mine. Hose length is 8 feet one way. The 8 feet back.
j par
Well-hung Member
Cole Trickle! LOL
67dartgtgo
Well-Known Member
Mine is mounted just like Justinp post 15 but closer to the radiator support next to the horns and in front of the alternator. Plenty of room, It’s a lot easier to clean if you drip some and no exhaust piping to worry about. I just wrap a rag around it when unscrewing and keep it upright. Sorry no good picture. The hoses need to be secured to the inner fender but it’s clean.
Nice carb. Whatcha got on top?
chrgdrt
Well-Known Member
Smokey Yunick
I tried that inner fender location for a number of years. If you let it sit long enough after running, its not a major mess when removing the filter, even when the check valve gets messed up (accusump dumping would do that to Fram's )
BUT let me suggest a few things regardless:
Adapter for hoses - Tap and thread into the block or use the type made by Canton (or similar designs) with through bolt attachment.
a. The cast screw on ones are almost impossible to seal, and near impossible to keep from rotating when attaching the hoses.
b. The cast screw on ones require work inside (as shown in the Direct Connection bulletins and book).
Hoses - Use Aeroquip firesleeve or equivelant. In addition, use a reflective thermal sleeve over that.
Without really good heat protection even the best aeroquip hoses started to seep after a year or two. I thought it was the connections or the stupid adapter at the block, but when I took the hoses off they went crackle crackle crackle. Exterior was fine - inside hose was cooked out. I'm sure it was from the exhaust heat. I went through another set of hoses even with aluminized sleeve - its not enough in some situations. Since then I've ditched the remote setup, but have run AN-8 hose in the same location for the Accusump. Covered in insulated firesleeve its been OK. After the headers went back on, that hose got an additional covering of reflective wrap... I hate oil leaks.
BUT let me suggest a few things regardless:
Adapter for hoses - Tap and thread into the block or use the type made by Canton (or similar designs) with through bolt attachment.
a. The cast screw on ones are almost impossible to seal, and near impossible to keep from rotating when attaching the hoses.
b. The cast screw on ones require work inside (as shown in the Direct Connection bulletins and book).
Hoses - Use Aeroquip firesleeve or equivelant. In addition, use a reflective thermal sleeve over that.
Without really good heat protection even the best aeroquip hoses started to seep after a year or two. I thought it was the connections or the stupid adapter at the block, but when I took the hoses off they went crackle crackle crackle. Exterior was fine - inside hose was cooked out. I'm sure it was from the exhaust heat. I went through another set of hoses even with aluminized sleeve - its not enough in some situations. Since then I've ditched the remote setup, but have run AN-8 hose in the same location for the Accusump. Covered in insulated firesleeve its been OK. After the headers went back on, that hose got an additional covering of reflective wrap... I hate oil leaks.
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