Removing stuck shift knob?

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Chained_360

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So I'm currently trying to remove the shift knob from my 1976 A833OD so I can refinish it and make it all pretty again, and it's like, super stuck. I can see that the whole nut insert is covered in rust and so are the threads. I've let it sit in WD-40 and PB blaster for a little bit (not like overnight), and I still can't get it to come off. I really, really want to restore this shift knob and not have to get a replacement one (unless someone on here has a NOS mopar part #4019132 or 3575480 for cheap), so destructive removal methods aren't in the cards.

My main question is, can I put some DX579 (phosphoric acid) on the threads without melting the plastic, or should I try heating up just the shifter handle with a torch and then try to remove it? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Buy a can of Kano Aero Kroil and spray it up in there a couple times. Let it work awhile. Stuff is good.
 
Buy a can of Kano Aero Kroil and spray it up in there a couple times. Let it work awhile. Stuff is good.

I was going to suggest soaking it in Kroil. Didn't know they made "Aero Kroil" Might have to get some of that. The regular Kroil in the orange can is great stuff!!
 
I'll pick some up today then! Thanks for the suggestion. Also, these shift knobs aren't reverse thread, are they?
 
I'll pick some up today then! Thanks for the suggestion. Also, these shift knobs aren't reverse thread, are they?
No reason to. But have a close look for a set screw.
Warm up shift lever with a heat gun.
Had problems with headlight adjusters siezing, i just warm up screw with a soldering iron,same idea, just on a larger scale.
 
I had one once that was reverse thread.......IIRC, but
it wasn't a Hurst, nor a Mr.Gasket.

But you what, those things used to come loose all the time,especially the T-Handles (I'll never install one of those ever again) and occasionally when this happened on the 2-3 shift, my knuckles were in the dash. So after a couple of times of that, I would throw the locknut away, and loc-tite the sob on there. What if........ someone else had the same experience?
Anyway loc-tite requires heat to soften it for removal, and different types of loc-tite require different temps to soften them.

Well actually, I still have an aluminum T-handle kicking around somewhere, that I drilled and tapped the heel of, and mounted it vertically.
 
I had one once that was reverse thread.......IIRC, but
it wasn't a Hurst, nor a Mr.Gasket.

But you what, those things used to come loose all the time,especially the T-Handles (I'll never install one of those ever again) and occasionally when this happened on the 2-3 shift, my knuckles were in the dash. So after a couple of times of that, I would throw the locknut away, and loc-tite the sob on there. What if........ someone else had the same experience?
Anyway loc-tite requires heat to soften it for removal, and different types of loc-tite require different temps to soften them.

Well actually, I still have an aluminum T-handle kicking around somewhere, that I drilled and tapped the heel of, and mounted it vertically.
It may be locktighted on there, but the whole assembly came off a stock A833OD from a '76 A or F body. I'll definitely try a heat gun first, but if that doesn't work then I'll step it up to some heavier duty stuff.
 
If it's a hard plastic ball, it will have a brass insert pressed into it, that is threaded on the inside and knurled on the outside. I don't think it can withstand much turning torque, so say a little prayer when you hit it with the heat. try not to get the ball too hot!!
 
If using heat I believe I would direct it below the ball and let it work up into the threads. It will take quite some time for heat to penetrate through the ball. Possibly overheating the ball.
Yote
 
Keep a couple wet rags handy. Will cool it quick.
 
No luck on the heat gun, I'm letting it sit in PB blaster over the weekend and then we'll see what happens.
 
If red locktite was used, needs 450 degrees to release. Kind of a catch 22.
 
Hmm. Other alternatives I was thinking of included using alum to dissolve the steel tip of the handle. I'll still wait to see what letting it soak does.
 
The alum thing didnt work for my broken tap,but i think it was just too small for the alum to work.
Cut it off,and drill it out.
 
The alum thing didnt work for my broken tap,but i think it was just too small for the alum to work.
Apparently the trick is you've gotta keep it warm, like 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit. I have no experience to back up that claim though
 
. Also, these shift knobs aren't reverse thread, are they?

Some of them are.

3/8" LH coarse thread at left & 3/8" RH fine thread at right;

lh rh shifter threads.JPG
 
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Take it to a shop that has a sonic cleaner . We have one and have freed up some things that you would not believe.. A guy came here and was working on a remote mirror that was stuck. It would not move. He soaked it for over a weak. The cables and the inside of the mirror and control unit were corroded.

We put in in the sonic cleaner for 20 minutes it came out like new and worked perfect. If we can't get something apart it goes in the sonic cleaner. Aluminum heads an engine parts come out like new. Most engine machine shops will have them.

We use it on a lot of ATV and dirt bike engines. We got one for are home shop to basically clean bearings out in the sprint car and the ATV's If you ever raced on dirt you know what I mean a sonic cleaner is a must.
 
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