Replaced clutch disc release near top after adjustment

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joes68340s

joes68340s

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I just replaced clutch with new Mcleod diaphragm setup after adjustment with near inch freeplay throw out bearing has about 1/8 inch gap but the clutch release is still near the top. Just wondering why I cant get it lower.
 
joes68340s said:
I just replaced clutch with new Mcleod diaphragm setup after adjustment with near inch freeplay throw out bearing has about 1/8 inch gap but the clutch release is still near the top. Just wondering why I cant get it lower.
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Oooh, right where I like em. :D
Sounds normal for a new clutch to me, but if it bugs you that much change your linkage geometry so the pedal travels more with less travel at the fork.
The only real problem with that is when the clutch wears and the disengagement point gets lower and lower on the pedal.
Build yourself a slotted linkage so you can readjust and always have it right where you want it as the clutch wears.:D
 
TrailBeast said:
Oooh, right where I like em. :D
Sounds normal for a new clutch to me, but if it bugs you that much change your linkage geometry so the pedal travels more with less travel at the fork.
The only real problem with that is when the clutch wears and the disengagement point gets lower and lower on the pedal.
Build yourself a slotted linkage so you can readjust and always have it right where you want it as the clutch wears.:D
Click to expand...
Which linkage or rod would be slotted.
 
It may bug you releasing near the top, but that is ideal for power shifting. If it doesn't slip let it eat.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
It may bug you releasing near the top, but that is ideal for power shifting. If it doesn't slip let it eat.
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I can get used to it. I am having trouble getting into fourth. Not sure if I need to double check the shift linkage or not.
 
joes68340s said:
Which linkage or rod would be slotted.
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If you have the standard Z bar you would make the bottom end a slotted design instead of just a hole.
That way you could adjust the geometry any time you wanted.
Basically you could change how much the TO bearing fork moved compared to how much you pushed the pedal down.

I could do it, but I'm not so sure just anyone could.

On the problem with fourth you probably just need to get your shifter rods adjusted, as fourth should be the easiest to get into.
Does it fight the actual engagement, or does the shifter not like moving to that position?
 
joes68340s said:
I can get used to it. I am having trouble getting into fourth. Not sure if I need to double check the shift linkage or not.
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If it is engaging near the top, than it should be releasing more than enough to shift gears. Are you sure it's not a synchronizer issue?
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
If it is engaging near the top, than it should be releasing more than enough to shift gears. Are you sure it's not a synchronizer issue?
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I now have fourth working fine the stop was turned in to much clutch works fine I just wasn't sure. Thanks for all the input.
 
joes68340s said:
Exactly what will that gain me.
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One day when you're powershifting your clutch pedal won't stick to the floor when you overextend the clutch fingers, blowing your engine into a million pieces. Other than that not much. I run a McLeod 75209 in my Duster, no overcenter spring. Diaphragm clutches are not supposed to be used with overcenter springs.

Here's one of the times it's come up. There are a bunch of threads like this, just search for "overcenter spring". You don't have to take my word for it.

why does the over center spring have to be removed
 
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72bluNblu said:
One day when you're powershifting your clutch pedal won't stick to the floor when you overextend the clutch fingers, blowing your engine into a million pieces. Other than that not much. I run a McLeod 75209 in my Duster, no overcenter spring. Diaphragm clutches are not supposed to be used with overcenter springs.

Here's one of the times it's come up. There are a bunch of threads like this, just search for "overcenter spring". You don't have to take my word for it.

why does the over center spring have to be removed
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OK Thanks
 
Nice! :thumbsup:

Loved the set up on that car, just needed some more horsepower and it really could have taken it to the usual suspects at the CAM and Optima challenges. Always good to see other cars showing just how capable the torsion bar suspensions on these cars can be.
 
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