reverse light switch

-

gdbuick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Messages
107
Reaction score
14
Location
Boston
Hello,
I picked up a father son project 1968 dart 383/727 transmission. Original 6 cyl auto car with console. The reverse lights don't work because the console mounted switch is broken. After surfing the web it appears this is almost $ 150.00 to replace with a factory switch which is crazy $. I can spend some time fabricating my own switch/bracket if need be if I can't find a used one someone wants to part with.

Second option:

Now the transmission does have a 3 pin neutral safety switch/reverse with only the center terminal being used for the neutral safety switch circuit. Unfortunately the two outer pins read open circuit on my ohm meter when shifting thru all the gears so I either have a bad switch or something inside the trans is not aligned up correctly. This is my first time working on this style transmission. Can you remove this switch without the transmission fluid pouring out? That way I could test the switch to determine what my issue is.
 
I disassembled my reverse light switch on my 67 dart. I found that the springs that push the contacts (2) and another that pushes a plastic part (1) were rusted and/or broken. They are very small but there are many suppliers of small springs on the net. I ended up paying the piper and bought a NOS and did not pursue springs any further. To disassemble mine I drilled out the two rivets and planned to reassemble with two bolts and nuts. Be sure to record the orientation of the parts. To get the correct springs, measure the spring wire diameter, number of coils per inch and outside diameter and length of the 3 springs. Good luck.
 
Hello
Someone before me opened the switch already. I thought I could fix it but there are parts missing. I have the two small springs and the plastic part the springs mount in but nothing to make contact with the wire terminal contacts inside the switch.
Greg
 
PM me and i'll send you the parts I have. I have everything but the springs. I found a bunch of springs here and there that I will toss in as well. never checked if any would do.
 
Thank you Dana67Dart for the generous offer. If anyone can answer my 2nd option I would appreciate it so I can learn more.
Greg
 
Now the transmission does have a 3 pin neutral safety switch/reverse with only the center terminal being used for the neutral safety switch circuit. Unfortunately the two outer pins read open circuit on my ohm meter when shifting thru all the gears so I either have a bad switch or something inside the trans is not aligned up correctly.

If you have an early transmission AKA before '69, the 3 pin switch will not work for reverse, as the "rooster comb" inside the transmission is not set up for that
 
Here are the photos of the switch disassembled

Brass in Plastic.jpg
Spring on Shaft.jpg
Plastic-brass bar-springs-shaft in plastic housing.jpg
Plastic housing in metal bracket.jpg
 
If you have an early transmission AKA before '69, the 3 pin switch will not work for reverse, as the "rooster comb" inside the transmission is not set up for that
Thank you, I’m told I have a 68 transmission so that explains my issue at the 3 pin switch.
 
If the 2 outer posts on the trans mounted switch don't show closed circuit in reverse position you probably don't have that rooster comb inside the trans.
You are speaking of shifter mounted reverse lamp switch while pics above are of the column mounted switch. Do they share common parts? Who knows?
To first buy the 69 model rooster comb, a trans filter service kit, and fluid is one option. Drop the valve body to change the rooster comb, maybe replace the shaft seals there too. Then you would need only to disconnect the console/extension harness below the steering column and route those 2 purple wires through the bulkhead and tape in with the brown neutral safety wire.
 
9BC4935B-661F-468D-A6D1-4D3F45BDA2C0.jpeg
AD16E46F-A47D-4688-856B-97F26D546B73.jpeg
9A37069F-47AB-4770-BCE9-BC7D58ADC2E1.jpeg
Thanks for the reply. We just realized as pointed out by RedFish we are talking about two different switches column in pics versus my console switch. Maybe I can fit together something workable between the two instead of tearing into the transmission. Here is what I have now and will try to combine with the parts Dana67Dart was kind enough to send me.
 
The large spring on the slide shaft need to be against one side of the plastic slide
upload_2018-1-24_14-44-5.png



The brass bar sits on top of the 2 small springs over the slide shaft and large spring
upload_2018-1-24_14-57-11.png




Cutaway side view of slide shaft and large spring and brass bar and small springs
upload_2018-1-24_14-57-32.png



Sorry for the crudeness of the drawings I was in a hurry.
 
Thank you Dana “Dana67Dart “

Package arrived expertly packaged. I was able to take peices from you and get my center console switch operating. Thanks to the cad drawings I was able to make sense of assembling mine. I would have missed the rolled edge on the small bar that makes the contacts inside the housing. If you put this on wrong you get unstable operation of the switch , don’t ask me how I know that ! For future reference the plastic body on the column switch is a little wider than the console one preventing it from being installed in the metal bracket for the center console. Also the wire terminal spacing is not perfectly aligned from one switch to the other. But I bet you could make it work.

832030B8-CD35-45AC-A324-2EBC0B4DC2A4.jpeg


D390CC50-2277-4E2F-904B-AFDA6EA48239.jpeg
 
AC456654-50FB-4383-8613-B4701938A94C.png
I will have to check thru my papers I received when I purchased it. I think I saw a paint receipt. I was told it was painted with the original factory blue color using vin codes. This is how I bought it.
 
I would be very interested in the recipe and brand if it turns out to be DD1.
 
-
Back
Top