pishta
I know I'm right....
My review of the 12 pc power steering pump/alternator pulley remover and installer.
I bought it to remove a solid gold colored double pulley from a Mopar round back alternator with a solid 17mm shaft that I had 2 of and both alternators were not being used. Opened the box and everything was there. The bearing was not rough like another reviewer claimed, just slightly gummed from the packed grease. I only used it to remove the pulleys so the only pieces I used were the 2 half shells using the small side under the pulley lip, the circular retainer, the jackscrew and its 'live center' (plus one stud, more on that later) . So you take the flanged nut, flange down, and place it on top of pulley lip. Take the 2 half shells and slide them under the lip of the pulley, and around the nut flange. slide the circle retainer around this to keep everything together. Grease the jack screw and thread the short black double ended stud into the female end of the jack screw to give you another 3/4 of an inch reach as the live center wont give you enough reach before the 1/2 hex head threads completely into the jackscrew as I found out the first time. So I get everything snug ready to bear down on it and Damn, this one pulley was on tight! I used a 13/16 box end ratchet wrench to hold the flange nut and a 26" breaker bar with a 1/2 socket on it to turn the jack screw. I placed the alternator on the ground and the 13/16 box end ratchet on the right side of the flanged nut and ran it to the floor so it would not move. Took the breaker and it ran it off the 1/2 hex toward the right side so I could push down on it for leverage. I started to push down and it locked up. Pushed harder and nothing. I about kneeled on the breaker bar and I heard a snap and the bar pushed down to the stop (a piece of 2x4 that I used so I wouldnt break my knuckles if the bar let go) I pulled it up 2 clicks of the 13/16 ratchet and continued to do this for about 30 times. It got just a little easier once it started to move and it put up a fight the entire inch that this was pressed on. It came off without incident and the shell didnt break or the threads didnt get buggered. Hey, that's a win in my book. The 2nd pulley was different as it was sort of a stamped sheet metal type that was spot welded instead of the solid machined design of the first one. This one came off easier as the metal was thinner and it seemed kinda hollow as the double pulleys were separated by a small gap. I noticed that when you use the stud as the extension instead of the live center, you end up a little crooked and the jack screw threads marred the inside outer end of the pulley where it does not contact the shaft. The double pulley had about an 1.5 inches of depth to the shaft when its pressed on. Its not flush by any manner. The single pulleys will be much shallower.
For $17.50 out the door with a 20% coupon, it worked as designed and compares to the similar piece count MATCO kit at $79. MATCO has a different design of its bearing, and a cleaner looking set of shells, but that's it design wise. The HF shells are a little rough cast but worked fine. This kit wont press on a round/squareback V-belt pulley if the shaft is not threaded for one of its centers. Not sure how you do that. Maybe in a press before you put the halved back together? So for the one off, you can do it with this HF part.
I bought it to remove a solid gold colored double pulley from a Mopar round back alternator with a solid 17mm shaft that I had 2 of and both alternators were not being used. Opened the box and everything was there. The bearing was not rough like another reviewer claimed, just slightly gummed from the packed grease. I only used it to remove the pulleys so the only pieces I used were the 2 half shells using the small side under the pulley lip, the circular retainer, the jackscrew and its 'live center' (plus one stud, more on that later) . So you take the flanged nut, flange down, and place it on top of pulley lip. Take the 2 half shells and slide them under the lip of the pulley, and around the nut flange. slide the circle retainer around this to keep everything together. Grease the jack screw and thread the short black double ended stud into the female end of the jack screw to give you another 3/4 of an inch reach as the live center wont give you enough reach before the 1/2 hex head threads completely into the jackscrew as I found out the first time. So I get everything snug ready to bear down on it and Damn, this one pulley was on tight! I used a 13/16 box end ratchet wrench to hold the flange nut and a 26" breaker bar with a 1/2 socket on it to turn the jack screw. I placed the alternator on the ground and the 13/16 box end ratchet on the right side of the flanged nut and ran it to the floor so it would not move. Took the breaker and it ran it off the 1/2 hex toward the right side so I could push down on it for leverage. I started to push down and it locked up. Pushed harder and nothing. I about kneeled on the breaker bar and I heard a snap and the bar pushed down to the stop (a piece of 2x4 that I used so I wouldnt break my knuckles if the bar let go) I pulled it up 2 clicks of the 13/16 ratchet and continued to do this for about 30 times. It got just a little easier once it started to move and it put up a fight the entire inch that this was pressed on. It came off without incident and the shell didnt break or the threads didnt get buggered. Hey, that's a win in my book. The 2nd pulley was different as it was sort of a stamped sheet metal type that was spot welded instead of the solid machined design of the first one. This one came off easier as the metal was thinner and it seemed kinda hollow as the double pulleys were separated by a small gap. I noticed that when you use the stud as the extension instead of the live center, you end up a little crooked and the jack screw threads marred the inside outer end of the pulley where it does not contact the shaft. The double pulley had about an 1.5 inches of depth to the shaft when its pressed on. Its not flush by any manner. The single pulleys will be much shallower.
For $17.50 out the door with a 20% coupon, it worked as designed and compares to the similar piece count MATCO kit at $79. MATCO has a different design of its bearing, and a cleaner looking set of shells, but that's it design wise. The HF shells are a little rough cast but worked fine. This kit wont press on a round/squareback V-belt pulley if the shaft is not threaded for one of its centers. Not sure how you do that. Maybe in a press before you put the halved back together? So for the one off, you can do it with this HF part.
