RHS headed 410 sb UPDATE!

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moper said:
I've had Ryan's "stage 3" heads not make 280 on other benches... And of course those are just bench numbers.

In terms of weight, not everyone is a drag racer. I build street engines primarilly. 50lbs on the nose of a road race car means not as flat in the corners and harder to brake going into the turn. For a street performance freak it means takig the off-ramp at 70 instead of 60 and not having to burn up brakes on the twisty hill roads I have around here. For drag racers... I know a bunch of class racers who use engines that go 500-600 runs with no attention and they'd give an arm to be able to move 50lbs to where it can help more. Especially for the suspension limited or tire limited guys, that can help a lot. Again, the right head for a given application. And for many, RHS won't be "it". For many others, they will replace RPMs and do a hell of a job.
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i think moper makes a good point, and really this thread shouldnt have any arguing in the first place..if anyone thinks these are a be all, end all race head then they need to rethink that idea..however, for what they are the way brian sells them they are a great head, and for people whose needs dictate that, then probably the best choice for the price it seems....everyone has different needs as we all know, so there really is no point to be stating like a young child "well lets see those heads do what my heads can/cant do"...everything has its benefits/ limitations, so just live with it and make the best choice for yourself thats it
 
I think aside from the "it takes the right head" line of thinking that is based on flow and cost, there's also the logistics of getting a head (or head package) actually installed and running. THAT is where the big coin can start to help focus on a particular head. If I have to ship iron (and I've quoted it recently) it's another couple hundred. So I'm at $1500 as a starting figure. I get RPMs at $800/ea including shipping. I still have to do the obligatory valve job, but the real cost of installation isnt that far away, and if the buyer needs lighter weight or simply wants some bling it's not too far a stretch money wise to use the RPMs. I don't think the race heads (W series, Indys, etc) even have a stake in this debate. I'd really like to see a street 318 or 340 built around the RHS heads. With the inherant velocity the short stroke shouldnt hurt low rpm at all and they can really move some air.
 

For those that complained, the report a post button is a wonderful feature to use when threads go bad.

Please, keep the profanity down as well as the insults reasonable.

Thanks crew.
 
Brian if someone told you to take the 410 you just played with, and make more power with it without altering the head at all, how much do you think you could get, and how would you go about doing it?
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I know this not directed at me, but this is too easy=rollercam/nos
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I agree. The only way to get more power is to keep the valves open for more time... Lift is limited by spring, which is limited by spring seat thickness. Port is limited by minimum cross section and speed which is a function of the casting and layout. Bigger valves are close to water according to Brian. So really, not much left. Bigger cam to where the springs can still control it. Maybe a bigger intake like the Victor. Bigger carb.
 
POS Dakota said:
Brian if someone told you to take the 410 you just played with, and make more power with it without altering the head at all, how much do you think you could get, and how would you go about doing it?
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Electric water pump, 950Hp carb, hyd. roller cam with around .630 lift at the valve, minor intake manifold porting.
I would expect maybe 50HP or more from those changes. I'll be testing the water pump and 950HP in a week or two.
 
ou812 said:
Electric water pump, 950Hp carb, hyd. roller cam with around .630 lift at the valve, minor intake manifold porting.
I would expect maybe 50HP or more from those changes. I'll be testing the water pump and 950HP in a week or two.
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keep us posted please!
 
ou812 said:
Electric water pump, 950Hp carb, hyd. roller cam with around .630 lift at the valve, minor intake manifold porting.
I would expect maybe 50HP or more from those changes. I'll be testing the water pump and 950HP in a week or two.
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my 340 is no comparison to Brian new ride but
I killed 2 tenth with an elect water pump and a alt. "kill switch" at Full throttle.

have to bring a bat charger and generator to keep the bat up now though.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
I know this not directed at me, but this is too easy=rollercam/nos
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ouch...no more nitrous.

I'm using a roller everything, but I'm not using any "NAWZ" dawg!!! lol
We parted ways a little while back you see...

The purpose of my build is to make what I was making with nitrous on my 360, all the time with this 408 by itself. I know it can be done rather easily and I know it can be done with what I purchased from Brian. I have to make a cam choice yet and it's extremely important it's a good one.
And I'll be there!

I'm done playing with nitrous though seriously...no lies.
I've broken just about everything that can be broken on the POS Dakota from that stuff. Some things twice. Even busted a leaf and an axle once. I'm the reason the Hubble Telescope had to be fixed. It was hit with a piece of aluminum from my intake. lol
 
POS Dakota said:
ouch...no more nitrous.

I'm using a roller everything, but I'm not using any "NAWZ" dawg!!! lol
We parted ways a little while back you see...

The purpose of my build is to make what I was making with nitrous on my 360, all the time with this 408 by itself. I know it can be done rather easily and I know it can be done with what I purchased from Brian. I have to make a cam choice yet and it's extremely important it's a good one.
And I'll be there!

I'm done playing with nitrous though seriously...no lies.
I've broken just about everything that can be broken on the POS Dakota from that stuff. Some things twice. Even busted a leaf and an axle once. I'm the reason the Hubble Telescope had to be fixed. It was hit with a piece of aluminum from my intake. lol
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I don't use and never have used nos.
Just me, but I get a kick out of na or no nos power, it's more...gradifying.
 
Who can testify to the reliability of a good electric pump like a meziere or csi on the street?

Or is this madness?
 
POS Dakota said:
Who can testify to the reliability of a good electric pump like a meziere or csi on the street?

Or is this madness?
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I like the CSI electric water pump. I have it on my 408, but can't tell you yet how it will keep my engine cool on the street...
 
mopardude318 said:
I like the CSI electric water pump. I have it on my 408, but can't tell you yet how it will keep my engine cool on the street...
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I've gotten mixed signals about it.
Some say it's great, others say no way.
Half of them probably really dont know. lol
 
The Meziere is the only one I tried, and that was on a big block. Worked great. Of course, so did the $60 Mr. Gasket electric drive and "OD" pulley...lol. I ddi upgrade to the largest Optima yellow top which meant no more maxed out alternator when letting things cool down after a run. IMO, the areas to save parasitic loss for a mixed use car is the fuel pump and fan(s). Keep the alternator and belt driven water pump. Let the racers lose the water pump belt.
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
meziere, a friend has been running it for 8yrs, not everyday driving though.
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yeah, I'm planning on driving this every day in the warmer months. Possibly even on some longer road trips. I guess I'd better just stay with the magnum water pump. It might use a little power, but i know it works all the time.
 
Oh boy...my heads are here.
I probably should have carried them upstairs to my office one by one instead of both at once.

I could have carried 2 eddies a lot easier!!!;)
I'll get some pics up and some sexy hughes rockers on top of them as soon as I recover. lol
 
LOL

On a car, nah no big deal...going up a stairs, yup!
I don't make 500 hp. ;)
 
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